2014 Frame Off Restoration

rhodemon · Post by **rhodemon** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 5:10 am

I've successfully used small teflon packing meant for plumbing use as a header-muffler gasket. Its readily available at your local hardware store or plumbing supply. I wrapped a few turns around the header pipe and pushed it into place with a screwdriver about 5000 mikes ago with no problems since.

Larzfromarz · Post by **Larzfromarz** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 7:34 am

And both styles of packing are still available (at least last year), the orange or black, through Honda.
L

VegeKev · Post by **VegeKev** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:38 pm

I have after market mufflers and just slotted the mufflers a wee bit and used a good quality exhaust clamp.....no packing or gasket used....and no leaks

Colorado66 · Post by **Colorado66** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:20 pm

Those are all good suggestions, I might have to try each one. Thank you.
another problem I have is my headlight only works on low beam, how do I replace these sealed beam bulbs?
anyone have a tried and tested trick?
thanks

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Tue Apr 29, 2014 4:39 am

The easiest way to replace your headlight is http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEADLIGHT-HONDA ... 7c&vxp=mtr

I have this light on my daily rider and its lasted 2 years so far. The other way is to pull the lens off the current light body and de solder the bulb free. Replace the bulb with a 6 volt headlight bulb....(PM me if you go this route for the bulb) and reseal the lens.

be careful when you do the bulb replacement. Wear gloves to prevent body fluid leaks,,

Colorado66 · Post by **Colorado66** » Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:52 pm

Thanks for all the recommendations and advise you guys, it's been very helpful

Here's a couple of progress pictures.

Can't wait to see that speedo arm sweep and odometer cycle.

Finally off the table and on wheels!!

Obviously there is still a lot of work to do and will have to take a video of when that engine comes to life.

Sam Green · Post by **Sam Green** » Fri May 02, 2014 5:50 pm

Colorado66 wrote:Thanks for all the recommendations and advise you guys, it's been very helpful

Here's a couple of progress pictures.

Can't wait to see that speedo arm sweep and odometer cycle.

Finally off the table and on wheels!!

Obviously there is still a lot of work to do and will have to take a video of when that engine comes to life.

Awesome looking resto.

Colorado66 · Post by **Colorado66** » Sat May 03, 2014 3:11 pm

Hopefully someone can give me direction here

When I tested out the starter with the start button, all I got was a click at the solenoid. So I took the solenoid apart and filed/sanded down the copper contacts. Tested it again on the bench and it works. Put it back in the bike and hooked everything up, push the button and it clicks once, no starter engagement and now it sticks.
So I tested just the starter on the battery and it works fine.
Now I'm wondering if the solenoid is bad or maybe I don't have a good ground.
Any other suggestions to test out the solenoid?
Thanks and as always appreciate the comments and advise

Sam Green · Post by **Sam Green** » Sat May 03, 2014 5:21 pm

Sounds like a bad ground.

Sam.

ByTheLake · Post by **ByTheLake** » Sat May 03, 2014 5:41 pm

Colorado66 wrote:Hopefully someone can give me direction here
When I tested out the starter with the start button, all I got was a click at the solenoid. So I took the solenoid apart and filed/sanded down the copper contacts. Tested it again on the bench and it works. Put it back in the bike and hooked everything up, push the button and it clicks once, no starter engagement and now it sticks.
So I tested just the starter on the battery and it works fine.
Now I'm wondering if the solenoid is bad or maybe I don't have a good ground.
Any other suggestions to test out the solenoid?
Thanks and as always appreciate the comments and advise

First - that little bike looks awesome, Doug. Love the white paint job.

Sounds like you're almost there. If the starter cranks from a direct connection to the battery, you can trace the circuit back one step at a time. The starter relay is just a big switch, so when you press the starter button and hear a click, you should be able to check for continuity across the contacts where the heavier cables connect. If resistance goes to near zero when the relay is engaged, the relay is doing its job. Make sure the heavy cable that runs from the starter to the relay is properly connected and not loose. Then trace the cable from the relay to the battery to confirm that connections are good.

This is a fresh paint job - is the ground cable (battery negative cable) connected to bare metal on the frame? (you've probably checked that already).

Larzfromarz · Post by **Larzfromarz** » Sat May 03, 2014 5:51 pm

IS the starter known to be good? I like to test mine with a spare battery, positive to the starter terminal and negative to the bike frame or engine, give it a few rotations. Since you've checked and tested the solenoid it this is the next major component. PS be sure there is a good ground between the probably painted engine and newly painted frame too.

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sat May 03, 2014 7:22 pm

In addition to the great advice already submitted, try a new starter cable. The CA175 cable like http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CA175K3-C ... b6&vxp=mtr

The CA175 cable works well, but a bit long, so you would need to curl the excess in the frame body. Or have a duplicate new cable fabricated. I contend that 45-50 year old copper cable and connections just degrade, especially our barn find bikes.

Colorado66 · Post by **Colorado66** » Sun May 04, 2014 4:02 pm

Checked resistance on the cables and the switch and they were zero or close to it, so I figured it had to be a bad ground.
Scraped some of the new paint away from where the ground cable connects to the frame, made the connections and it works like a champ!
So it was a bad ground.
Appreciate all the replies as it steered me in the right direction.
Often times I'll get focused on replacing a part before thoroughly checking some of the obvious culprits.

Today I was playing around with the throttle cable and installing the carb.

Is the throttle grip supposed to snap back into place? Or just easily rotate back?
I lubed a NOS throttle cable with graphite and the cable moves very easy. Also installed a new throttle slide and lubed it with graphite.
The handle or grip rotates ok but doesn't have a lot of force pulling the handle back to close the throttle.
Seems like safety features would require the throttle to close if you took your hand off.
Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Thank you!

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sun May 04, 2014 7:29 pm

I think the steel handlebar slot/aluminum slide/steel internal twist channeled throttle design makes it hard to get a good snap throttle return, especially after 45+years.

You may want to clean the inside of the throttle tube and lightly break the edges of the new slide.

Frankly, I have never been successful at getting this type of throttle to return by itself, even using specialty lubricants. Maybe some members can shine a better light on this issue.

ByTheLake · Post by **ByTheLake** » Mon May 05, 2014 5:41 pm

I used a replacement handlebar, and the slide channel was quite rough. I used a rotary tool to smooth the inside of the channel, so the slide moves nicely. I greased the slide area inside the handlebar. The throttle returns on its own, but I wouldn't call it a 'snap' back to position.