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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #1  
Unread 05-16-2011, 07:46 PM
62benly 62benly is offline
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Default Fishy Carb

Hello,

I have been working diligently trying to adjust my carburetor and am finding it hard to get the measurements required both from my manual and here from what smithers did in earlier threads. So, Im starting to get suspicious of the "kind" my carb claims to be. Could someone take a look at these pictures and put my mind at ease. Do I have to correct carburetor for my 62 benly?

1) The carb is different from the pictures presented in other photos on this site, such as there is no "dip" where smithers measures the float height.
2) The CA95 stamp looks tacked on

Thanks
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg P1000145.JPG (185.4 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg P1000144.JPG (259.5 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg P1000143.JPG (185.2 KB, 29 views)
File Type: png Print.png (339.3 KB, 13 views)

Last edited by 62benly; 05-16-2011 at 08:03 PM.
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  #2  
Unread 05-18-2011, 02:58 AM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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At first glance it looks like a different carb, but looking at some key parts since the whole carb can't be seen it looks like one that has been rebuilt, using parts that are after market and not oem... and that could mean they could have changed anything that seemed to fit. It would be eaiser to identify it if there were whole shots of the carb, since the close ups make it a bit difficult to determine. It might be one of the cases where you clean it to good working order, then adjust while its on the bike and running, which can be a pain...two and half turns out seems to be the magic number on a lot of carb jets, so starting from there might be the best option.
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  #3  
Unread 05-18-2011, 04:59 AM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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It is a CA95 carb. It is nearly impossible to determine if it is the original carb for the engine. I mix and match them with no issue.

Assuming the float is good (no holes) make sure the float level is adjusted correctly.

Replace the small fuel inlet valve & seat assembly that usually comes with a rebuild kit.

Make sure the "O" ring in carb body is good and you are using the insulator that came with the bike along with new gaskets.

Assure that all ports are clean and any jets are clean as well.

One common error is tightening the carb too tight on the engine. It may be likely that the carb has been over tightened and the mounting face may be warped. Chect the mounting face on a flat surface. If warped you may have to try to even out or find another carb.
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  #4  
Unread 05-20-2011, 09:15 PM
62benly 62benly is offline
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Here are some pictures of the full carburetor.

I put the floats as high up into the (float housing) as I could and it comes close to between 7-8 mm, it seems to run pretty good now.

While I was at it today I also tore into the speedo and zero'd the odometer. Cant wait to put some miles on the benly once she's road worthy. The glass cracked during my operation, so starts the search for a replacement.
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File Type: jpg SideView.jpg (175.8 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg SideView2.jpg (184.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg ZERO.jpg (73.3 KB, 14 views)
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  #5  
Unread 05-21-2011, 03:57 AM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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definitely a ca95 carburetor, be careful screwing ing the top slide in the first picture it looks cross threaded a little but not in the second picture, possibly there is some parallax in the shot making it look that way... That sucks about the glass, have you considered a pane of tempered glass and a glass cutter or using plexiglass? It would certainly be a cheaper alternative.
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Unread 05-21-2011, 06:38 AM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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I have replaced the glass in speedo's. Very tricky to get the crimped bezel off. You need to make relief cuts at the corners and take time to pry up along the seam with a small flat tool.

Be Carefull ......the speedo glass is old school and breaks into slivers and will cut you bad. Once out, you can use plexiglass and reseal. Recrimp the bezel back down. Make a speedo gasket to hide the relief cuts when reinstalling the unit. No one will be able to tell that it was even taken apart.
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  #7  
Unread 05-21-2011, 07:06 PM
62benly 62benly is offline
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Yeah, I did something similar to what spokes described in order to zero out the odometer. I carefully un-crimped the metal bracket to get into the innards. The inner gasket crumbled to pieces so I cut a new one out of bicycle tubing. When I was trying to fit the bracket back around everything the glass broke, I was using cramps to get everything lined up, the class broke when I tried some tap taping with a rubber mallet (not recommended).

I think once I get a new glass piece figured out I can do it again but much more carefully.

The odometer was pretty difficult to reset but after lots of trial and error the numbers turn smoothy and it works great.
The gears and such were very rusty so dripped a bit of chain lube around too.

Last edited by 62benly; 05-21-2011 at 07:19 PM.
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