The adventure begins

weestrom05 · #1 05-01-2011, 01:07 PM

The 62 is now in my shop and work is beginning. Step 1: new tires, tires are on the rims but the rear end shows to need more work before remounting rim. It needs wheel dampers, brake shoes, and both drive sprockets before I can continue.I put tires, tubes and rim strips in it. I have new chain but cant install until the sprockets are replaced. Question to board experts, which is better 40+ yr old oem dampers that have hardened on the shelf or new reproduction dampers? It seems to me that the originals would be almost as bad as the ones that are in the bike now. But if the repro,s aren't good?

All of the original parts to the bike are present and working with the exception of the muffler baffles and the headlight bulb. This bike looks like a typical 5 year old bike, not 50. It also runs pretty good with the exception of a bit of smoke from the right side.

While Im waiting for more parts, i'm trying to polish the wheel drums up a bit. Is there a clear coat on the aluminum parts?
It looks like there is some kind of coating on the aluminum that is failing
Here is what it looks like today. I will try to get better pics tomorrow when the light is better.

Spokes · #2 05-01-2011, 01:35 PM

The dampening question will get different opinions for sure. I reuse the old ones as long as there are no cracks or breaks. Some have reported that the asian repro's are not as robust as the old ones. Maybe you can blaze the trail and buy new ones and tell us how they hold up.

There is a clear coat on the wheel hubs. I use paint stripper to clean it off. Repolish and recoat with standard rattle can aluminum clear coat paint from the local auto store. Or try to polish bright and try to maintain the shine.

weestrom05 · #3 05-01-2011, 01:59 PM

My originals are in good shape but harder than I feel they should be. i have new ones here to put in my vstrom to compare the relative hardness. im afraid of the oem units that have set on a shelf for 40+ years. But I have my doubts bout the quality of the aisian ones. I see on line that Apex cycle has repros for 15.00 shipped. Im thinking that isnt too much to loose if they arent very good.

Question for Spokes: When you put the solo seat on what supports the rear of the seat? Im thinking of using the solo with a luggage rack and then mounting the Bestem top box with integrated back rest. I did that on a Suzuki gz250 and it worked great.
Curt

Spokes · #4 05-01-2011, 02:14 PM

I built the support custom. I used 1/2 steel rod, bent the rod to contour the frame and welded two 1/8" thick metal wings to support the springs. I mounted the rods into laboratory chemistry rack conectors and fastened the rack connector to the fender trim where the original seat mount was bolted to0. The rack came from a mid 60's Honda Trail 90, modified to fit the new solo seat mount and the CA95 frame. See pic

weestrom05 · #5 05-01-2011, 03:55 PM

that is some super work. I dont know if my metal working skills are up to what you have accomplished. Curt

Spokes · #6 05-01-2011, 05:24 PM

Thanks. I'm working on a new design for my CA95 & 160. I intend to make the seat lower and possibly attach to the frame. I may use fiberglass for the seat pan rather than steel. Maybe or maybe not use the springs. My projects should be finished in 8-10 weeks.

Smithers · #7 05-03-2011, 07:43 AM

I would try the original rubber sprocket drive dampeners for sure. My original ones still work in my bikes. The only difference is that they are in the bike and not on the shelf.

weestrom05 · #8 05-03-2011, 01:47 PM

The only question that I have is the dampers are there to absorb shock between the rear wheel and the drive train. When they get too hard they cant serve that function. So...... when do they get too hard to serve their purpose? I think we are between a rock and a hard place. The originals being rubber are much harder than original and the Tiawanese repros are of questionable quality. I have a new set for my V strom here to compare the hardness and the oems are much harder after 50 years. This sets us up for a whatever we do its wrong situation. BTW Ive pretty much decided to reuse my old ones also. Curt

weestrom05 · #9 05-03-2011, 01:52 PM

While Im not very patiently waiting for the sprockets and brake shoes,I have decided to clean up the rear hub. After I got the clear coat off the surface showed corrosion that looked like a fungus growing on the surface of the aluminum. I know its not any thing growing but what is the proper way of cleaning them up. I have tried wadding polish but it doesnt seem to be aggressive enough to remove the marks. I I go the 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper will I cause myself more grief? The marks are so shallow that I cant feel them with my fingernail. Curt

bluerider · #10 05-03-2011, 07:10 PM

I have a bench mounted motor with 6" sewn cloth buffing wheels. trippli will remove the coating and any pitting, I follow that with a light buffing with red rouge and then clean things up with acetone and a quick one over with simi chrome. It sounds really involved but it goes qicckly.

I just got a 3" sewn cloth wheel for my electric die grinder but I haven't had a chance to try it out. I am hoping it will be the ticket for polishing the engine case.

Without an electric buffer you can use sandpaper, I start with 220 and then go to 400, then 800 followed by 0000steel wool and finish with simi chrome.

Robin

Spokes · #11 05-03-2011, 07:42 PM

Yep the 3" buffing wheel on an electric die grinder will do the trick. If you want a really chrome like shine try green rouge (for stainless) or gold rouge (for chrome) I use the green and gold for all of my aluminum polishing.

Do wear a painters mask and safety glasses.

Smithers · #12 05-04-2011, 08:16 AM

About safety:

Yeah everyone be careful with all those compounds that get airborne and can easily be ingested into your system while you are just trying to breath! A friend of mine was watching me paint last week without any breathing protection. I didn't realize he was so close right behind me the whole time. Well the next day he was hacking up paint chips!! haha horrible. He was spitting up paint for half a day and definitely learned a lesson.

At a body shop I'm working on my truck at one of the painters told me something alarming. He said in a class his instructor showed a video of a guy briefly putting his hand in some paint thinner and at the same time they were monitoring the blood in his other hand. Well when he dipped his hand in the stuff for a second they could instantly get toxic readings from his blood on the other side of his body. We are basically a sponge for toxins when you think about it.

I see a lot of older guys getting cancer that worked with (and some still work with) light chemicals. Simply wear your breathing protection - masks are cheap. Paint dust/ overspray dry or wet - rubbing and polishing compounds and glues are deadly.

weestrom05 · #13 05-19-2011, 04:51 PM

after acouple weeks of tinkering, new tires,tubes, rim strips, sprockets, chain,battery and rear brakes, I took the 62 off the bench and ran it tonight. It started on the first touch of the starter button and the motor was great. The clutch, on the other hand, wasnot so good. When I first ran it the clutch wouldnt disengage and getting it into 1st gear was a chore.After running the bike for about 10 minutes the clutch loosened up some and shifting got easier. Can any one point me to a link that shows proper clutch adjustment? Im wondering also if things are just stuck in the engine or it is now ready for a top end job as its smoking a bit on the right side. Would a bit of marvel mystery oil be worth a try.The title shows that it has been run only 200 miles in the last 2 years so a bit of balkyness is to be expected

Jetblackchemist · #14 05-19-2011, 05:34 PM

Congrats! on the first turn over

Have you cleaned and gapped the plugs? I didn't see it mentioned...It might just need a little time to burn out some carbon, since it sat I am sure a couple of the valves were open allowing some gunk to settle on the valve seats. Some marvel is always a good idea

I'd try and open the throttle up on it a bit to help blow out some of the carbon deposits. Check your free play in the clutch cable lever it should have 10 to 15mm of play, it might be as simple as turning the cable adjuster on the perch til it has correct play and snap, graphite powder is the best lubricant for cables. Ok if thats not working to fix it check if the cable if bent up or kinked, if not...we can adjust the main adjustment, take the little side cover off first to make sure the spring has some life to it, you can work the clutch action by hand (cycle off of course.) to see what kind of movement you have if it should have some decent pull enough to move a cable through a tube easily, if not then put a stronger spring on it or take that spring off and use some pliers to put some good bends back in the ends, if it springs good then...lets say bolt is letter A and the big slot beside it is letter B. loosen bolt A and turning B If B is tightened too much the clutch may slip, And if B is too loose then it wont disengage easy. sitting on it after adjustments go from neutral to another gear pull the clutch rock it a little and see if it acts like it is in neutral if so then its working the way it should, you may have to fiddle with the adjustments between the handlebar perch adjuster and the lower to get it just right.

Spokes · #15 05-19-2011, 08:41 PM

The clutch plates and the friction disks to glue together after sitting a while. Often times running the engine will free them up. If problems with the clutch persist it may be time to replace the friction discs and clean up the plates.

Adjustment is as jet suggests. Although I think light gun oil is the best lube for cables.

If the oil burning is from sticky rings then maybe adding something to the fuel may work. But I have no faith in mystery oils. As far as I am concerned, mystery oils loosens up the money in your wallet and makes it slide into the hands of the owners of the mystery oil company easier.