Four Wheel Forum

i have an extra new uni filter, i bought a two pack and only used one of them. there is a photo in my post on this thread: http://www.fourwheelforum.com/showthrea ... ght=filter

send me a message if you are interested, i could send it out for cheap. -t

i wanted white walls but couldn't hang with the price, so i bought these cheng shin knobbies (they called them trials tires) from bikebandit for less than $20 each as i recall. the 3.00x16's rub a little if i hit a big bump hard, but i'm really happy with them. cheap and look cool. i'll recycle this ...

looks great! i'm so used to using hand signals from not having them on the benly, i've taken to just doing it on all my bikes. you've made a nice solution.

thanks for the how-to photos- i'd been wondering how that assembly works.

great photos, thanks for taking the time to share them.

...did you ring and bolt that connection or use compression connectors?


after digging around my bin and coming up short, i just clipped some metal off an old hose clamp to make a crimp connector and then soldered it. i was out of heat shrink in that size so i used friction tape. i was a vw ...

i've only used it for a couple months, but the specialists at the industrial battery shop that have extensive knowledge on the subject assured me these were far more durable and lasted longer than the original units. here it is, wired up:

it's better technology than the older batteries. the spade connectors won't vibrate off, and with a little heat shrink tubing you can make it look like it belongs. i'll get a photo of the way i did mine later today and you can decide whether it will be an aesthetic hurdle.

it's a little less deep than the factory battery, so i just cut a piece of radiator hose to wedge it in there snug. you will have to splice the two power wires into one spade connector or use one of those spade splitter things- but splicing is cleaner. good opportunity to make a new ground cable as ...

i use this one:
http://www.atbatt.com/product/3526/sla/power-sonic/ps-6100-f2/battery

paid $26 for it locally at a battery specialty place. made some new connectors and it's super clean looking and theoretically has a better service life as it's meant to live through being discharged frequently ...

rad, thank you. just as you mentioned, when i had the clutch apart i noticed the basket had a good amount of eccentric wiggle. i was just happy to have a functioning clutch after de-rusting the whole deal so i forgot about the play. i'll put that on the list.

The occasional "neutral" between 3rd and 4th gear is a worn shift shaft. It can be changed with the engine on the bike. Make sure to change the seal at that time.
thanks, good to know. i was dreading having to tear the motor all apart since it's running so well. i'll look at the shift shaft ...

came across this dream at the worst possible time: a week before finals. it hadn't run for many, many years (note the tags from 1970) and the fellow i picked it up from had the tank stripped and it was completely rusted out. he never really got into working on it and needed it gone. i picked up a 6v ...

i picked up a two pack of the uni foam filters at a local shop on sale. the OD of the filter flange fits nicely under the boot for the intake and stays on well with the clamp. i would just run the stock one if they were available, but the one that came with my bike was hammered. i'd be happy to sell ...