'65 CA95 Refresh
 

Introduction:

I'm a new member on the forum here, my name is Gregg. I have a couple of Hondas; a '71 CB500 SOHC4, a '97 Prelude, and this '65 CA95 150 Benly I picked up a few months ago. I'm playing catch-up with this first post, as I have project threads for the CB500 and the CA95 on the SOHC4 forum. Future posts here will likely be similar.

I've gathered 95% of my parts, and I'm almost ready to tear her down and rebuild.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Here we go!

Here's the latest addition to my stable. I can call two bikes a stable, right? Anyhow, she's a 1965 CA95 Benly Touring, all original, 5K miles, all the pieces are there (even the horribly corroded original petcock), never been restored, she was cheap, and...SHE RUNS ;D We got her to fire on both cylinders last night after a bad plug was resolved. Almost better than the deal on the bike was getting to meet the PO, who has a 5K square foot warehouse stuffed to the gills with about 100 rare old bikes and cars. I got invited back to work on projects and take pictures, and I didn't have my good camera, so better pics will come later.

My plan is to clean her up a little: replace the crusty cables, find a new petcock, clean the tank, find a new battery and cruise her around.

I've never worked on one of these, so any advice or good resources would be greatly appreciated!
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The outside has great patina, but the inside is another story..
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/...cbd519c5_m.jpg

His homemade petcock...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4087/...2ce51e3a_m.jpg

...made kind of a mess...
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The other side is much nicer
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/...5eef32f9_m.jpg

In his shop last night
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And the few shots I managed to get without being rude and not listening to his stories about his bikes:

Triumph GT6 Fastback
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/...6e28cd70_m.jpg

A DeTomassa Pantera engine (w/incorrect head resting on it) Sitting next to an orange 454 engine.
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SL90?
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5248/...0eb4d61f_m.jpg

Name This Bike...
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Two sweet bikes whose names I managed to forget..but the one on the right was by a company that was bought out by Harley, but this one was from before that) <EDIT> It's an Aermacchi on the right.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/...01c8f09f_m.jpg

More to come as I clean her up. Maybe even a vid!?

Oh, and here's my 'stable'
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/...ff2d860752.jpg

Oh, and here's what's left of the bike's original petcock...
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The sun broke out for a little bit, so I took a few pics. I cleaned off a bunch of wax from some hard to reach nooks n crannies that were overlooked by whoever cleaned her last.

I have a gasket set on the way for when I rebuild her, which may be very soon. She spat out a good amount of oily liquid from the cylinder that wasn't firing, so I think the rings may be shot :-\

I just smile when I look at that thing.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/...041fd0fe_m.jpg

Not too bad on the outside
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Speedo/Odo both work ;D ;D
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http://gallery.sohc4.net/main.php?g2...serialNumber=1
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He said the pipes were $300 bucks on ebay, so I guess my 'all original' claim is sort of shot.
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He's got the right header pipe for me somewhere in that shop, so I'll get it eventually.

Brand new Chinese tires already on the bike...Good for temporarily holding air
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Sprockets/chain will be replaced
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The tank needs a serious cleaning :o :o
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<EDIT> THIS TANK HAS BEEN DEEMED UNUSEABLE DUE TO OLD LINER <EDIT>

I love the crinkly paint. I will not be refinishing any surfaces. This bike was clearly kept inside here in sunny California, and I think it'd be a shame to significantly alter it. My dad has kept some beautiful automobiles over my lifetime; he's had some of them longer than he's been married, namely his 356's. His convertible has the original white paint from 1963, and with all her cracks and crinkles, I think it's the most beautiful 356 I've seen outside of a museum. It's only original once.
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Got my $70 ebay petcock, it's in great shape. I had no reason to think it would leak all over the place when I installed it ::) I got most of the old liner out of the tank after a good bath in 'The Works' The molasses did nothing...I rinsed it out and gave it a good baking soda wash to neutralize the reaction, rinsed it out some more, and filled her up with gas after drying out in the hot sun (We broke some records here in the Bay Area today).

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First I thought the petcock wasn't screwed on tight enough, so after spilling gas everywhere to tighten the screws, the lever wouldn't move anymore, and it still leaked. Luckily, I had cleaned up the PO's jerry rigged petcock with some carb cleaner and a new filter, so for now I'll use that.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/...786afafb_m.jpg

So, all this cleaning, gas spilling and frustration took up about seven hours of my day off. To top it off: When I went to start her up...the battery I'd charged up was dead :-[

On the bright side, the PO found the pipes he said he would give me.

Oh well, tomorrow is another day.

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Finally got my new battery today. Replaced the D10HS plugs the PO had in there with what are supposed to be correct D8HA's. I installed everything, turn the ignition on and the brake light lit up, so she's got power, but she won't start.

Do you guys have any tips for getting these girls started? Choke? Throttle?

The electric starter turns the motor over, and she's getting gas, so I'm thinking I'm probably just doing something wrong. I have no idea what the switch on the left handle does, but I tried starting it in both positions. The choke has a lever with an arrow pointing outward that says "OPEN", but does that mean the choke is on when the lever is lifted, and the throat is open when it's pushed down?

Thanks Guys!

Oh, and here's a chunk of the tank liner I pulled out laying dead on the driveway.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/...1ae69551_m.jpg

Tore into the carburetor. By the looks of the gaskets, it's been a long time since it's been rebuilt.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/...f6b55652_m.jpg
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As I was taking it apart, the two small springs on the left side of the picture below dropped out from I don't know where :o I hadn't seen them as I was unscrewing everything. Does anybody recognize where these go?

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/...3d0493c22e.jpg

I replaced the plugs and battery. I have spark, but no gas because I've discovered that the tank is clogged. I really thought I got most of that crap out of there, but I guess not...What will dissolve old tank liners without destroying my old tank and paint ???


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I bought a 'new' tank.

http://i.ebayimg.com/01/!B7henjwBWk~...UOO7Q~~_12.JPG

It's from an early model, complete with petcock and chrome/rubber covers for forty bucks and no shipping (it's local).


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Well, progress has been slow. I've been gathering parts (petcock/carb rebuild kits, and throttle/brake/clutch cables). I've rebuilt the carburetor (my first one ;D). And, I picked up a used early model tank with petcock for $45 ;D ;D. The petcock is way nicer than the ones I have, so I'll be using the rebuild kit on it once it's cleaned up. The petcock was worth what I paid for the tank, and the tank is in really nice shape inside.

Here's the carb after the rebuild

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I used a Keyster kit.
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The "new" tank after I pulled the chrome covers off. The inside is really nice and clean.
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Here's the petcock that came with the tank, it’s in incredible shape!
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A very important lesson my dad (a VW mechanic) taught me years ago really rang true when I opened up the rebuild kit for the petcock: "Never throw any parts away, no matter how trashed" I had been expecting this piece to be included, and was very happy I hadn't thrown mine away.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/...75f09cc5_m.jpg

This piece can get really mangled when trying to disassemble these fuel valves, so be careful...

The rebuild kit came with a rubber and a cork gasket...any opinions on which one I should use??

[img] http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5167/...dc34e6bc_m.jpg [img]

Anyhoo, once I get the tank and petcock cleaned up I should be able to get her to fire up!

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I learned that the early and late model tank covers ARE NOT interchangeable.

First is the early model tank followed by the cover, then the late model tank and cover.

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As you can see, the covers switched jobs with the tanks with the later model. The tank does also seem to be slightly different in shape.

My quest for a tank has ended with what some might consider a piece of the unobtanium...a NOS late model tank :o


It's from a guy on ebay who's selling off the remains of his parts shop in the midwest. I got a smokin' deal on it compared to his asking price. He wanted $475 OBO. I offered $200 thinking no way will he accept it, but this morning I looked, and he did! He had one up for auction a few weeks ago that went for over $300, so I'm pretty pleased with myself. It just needs some paint, and my nice chrome covers and I'll be set!

I've ordered the snowmobile plug wire so I can redo my coil. The throttle cable has been replaced with a fresh, lubed one, and I lubed the throttle slider as well. The clutch cable requires one to remove the left side exhaust, which will require a blowtorch to remove one of my bolts...luckily the clutch cable isn't too crusty, so I may put that job off till she's fully functional.

Holy crap. I have a spare tank :) I guess it's solid gold.

Welcome to the forum here btw... there is a ton of info on the troubleshooting process for a CA95 engine that won't start. You have to make sure you have spark #1 of course. There is a LOT of info on carb setup around here. I'm sure you're reading some currently. Those petcocks are pesky! That's why I took good care to post detailed pictures and how I restored mine.

There is a treasure trove of information on this forum for this bike, it's amazing.

I eventually got the petcock to stop leaking. It seems I was over tightening the screws. I also felt that the cork gasket fit better.

Ryan - You have a spare tank? Very nice! This one will be my third, as I have the original trashed tank, and an early model as well.

Do all years share the same wiring harness? OH!, and I'd really like to hear others' sprocket setups. I have a 36 tooth on the back, and I need a blowtorch to get the clutch cover off, so I don't know what my front tooth count is yet.

Thanks Guys!

Those petcocks are a science. They are one of the most difficult parts of getting an old Honda back on the road. As the years pass tanks are becoming more and more rare just like everything else on these bikes. I wonder what it will be like in 10 years in regards to trying to find good parts. I have another tank in great shape that I don't even know what model it was from. I'll have to post the picture up and take suggestions. :)

Sprockets - I've always run the sprockets that came on whatever Honda I've come into possession of. I've thought about changing sprockets on my blue 150 but just never got motivated enough to order some. We should start a sprocket and chain thread discussing the subject of size and chain size etc. It basically comes down to if you have hills around your area that you ride or not. I'm a fan of being able to cruise 55mph but shoot with that kind of gearing you can't scoot up any decent size hills without slowing way down.

I'm not sure on what wiring harness works on what bike or which are similar. Is yours in bad shape?

The rear sprockets on the CA95 & 160 are mostly 36 tooth. You probably have a 16 tooth on the engine. You can go down to a 12 tooth on the engine to gain more low end torque, but you sacrifice high end speed. You can go with a bigger rear sprocket if you don't use the chain guard. I replace chain and sprockets for my restore projects as a matter of habit and use standard sizes.

I try to buy two or three of every important part I replace, so that in ten years maybe I won't have to worry about that! And I'd like to see that tank. I'll post pics of mine when she shows up.

I live in San Francisco (NOT FLAT), and plan on putting around town/back n forth to work type riding, so I will knock a tooth or two off the engine for some extra pull.

My harness is just kinda dry and crusty. I found a brand new one from a shop closing up somewhere in the midwest for 60 bucks...If it will work, I'll save it for when I take her apart and completely repaint/rebuild.


Thanks for the specs there Spokes! I'm not concerned with top speed at all with the brakes on these bikes ;) I will drop a tooth or two on the front, and stay stock on the back. It's best not to divert too far from stock.


Also, I will be replacing the brake shoes front and back when I change the sprocket. I'd also like to change all the bearings, and possibly the dampers in the rear hub. Oh, tires are on the list too.

Do you have any suggestions, comments, or sources for parts I should attain before doing this. I only want to take the wheels off once as I hear it can be a pain. The bike has five thousand miles, and I don't know it's history, so I'm assuming nothing's ever been replaced. I really need a source for bearings. I found a set online, but I'm not sure about the quality. Are there really five bearings for the wheels??

Thanks for the help guys!

Yes there are 5 bearings total for the CA95. Two in the front hub and Three in the rear(Two in the wheel hub and one in the sprocket drive hub)

I listed procedures to remove the bearings here in the forum. Bearings are an easy find. Read the side of the bearing for make and size. They still can be found from a bearing supply house. You have a choice when replacing wheel bearings. Open face and back (need to keep greased) OR (what I use) is new sealed bearings, good for 10K miles without the need to lube. I reuse the wheel bearing seals with the new sealed bearings just to keep the assembly complete.

I've found your thread on the bearing removal, but I can't see the pictures. In fact, I can't see 95% of the pictures in these threads. I've tried in in Firefox, and Internet Explorer.

Yeah we moved the forum location and lost some picture links because of a bug in the software. There was no way to fix it. I posted my apologies and what our forum members could do about it if they wanted to help those older posts with missing pictures. Here is the info: http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5344&postcount=7

Quote:

I can tell where the pictures were supposed to go so I'm putting place holders to show when I run across them. I typed the following where a picture was prior to disappearing during the move: (picture here) If anyone has the pictures and feels like putting them back in their album and reposting them feel free. I would really appreciate if anyone went through the trouble of doing this too.

I will be doing some new pics soon. Basically use a 3/8 concrete anchor and expand it inside the inner race. Use a drift pin or a sutable size rod to drive against the secured anchor base from the opposite side, to drive out the bearing. You have to remove the odometer drive plate to get at the right side, front wheel bearing.

I tap the new bearings in using a socket that fits the outer race. Make sure all surfaces are pristine clean with a very thin coating of lube (WD40 or the like)

You can use a socket to drive out the drive hub bearing (holding the sprocket) and seal together.

Cleared a major hurdle today, and started the registration process. The DMV now has at least something with my name on it linked to that bike. I set up an appointment with a CHP officer to come to my house to do the VIN verification, and then I'm set! I've been saving the majority of the laborious work until this process is done, so it wouldn't be a wasted effort. She'll be back on the road soon!

I do need to replace the headlight. I think I'll do the replaceable bulb if it's not too complicated. I've been scouring ebay for a C95 (replaceable type) assembly, but no luck yet.

Search CA95 headlight on eBay. An easy find. Keep your original headlight rim and transfer the new light to the original rim, it will fit better. You will also need to tie in your high beam wire in the speedo to the high beam wire on the new headlight.

Hi Gregg and Chip,

Chip, have you ever gone down to 12 teeth with the front sprocket?
The smallest I have used is 14 and I would think the stock chain would foul the sprockets retaining bolts, just a thought.

Sam.:)

quote Greeg.

Finally got my new battery today. Replaced the D10HS plugs the PO had in there with what are supposed to be correct D8HA's. I installed everything, turn the ignition on and the brake light lit up, so she's got power, but she won't start.

Do you guys have any tips for getting these girls started? Choke? Throttle?

The electric starter turns the motor over, and she's getting gas, so I'm thinking I'm probably just doing something wrong. I have no idea what the switch on the left handle does, but I tried starting it in both positions. The choke has a lever with an arrow pointing outward that says "OPEN", but does that mean the choke is on when the lever is lifted, and the throat is open when it's pushed down?

Thanks Guys!

Gregg, the choke is on when the leaver is in the up possition.
Most small Hondas from this period do not like any throttle when starting.
Just take up any slack in the cable and press the starter or kick.
In respect of the choke slide, does the CA have a little flapper door built into it, can't tell from your pictures?

Sam.:)

Sam,
It's good that you have chimed in. Yes I have fit a 12 tooth sprocket on the CA95. The chain is close. Perhaps you are right that for the long term a 14 tooth drive sprocket may be better.

Thanks for your reply Sam,

My choke slide does not have the little flapper I've seen on other models, however my carb body does have CA95 stamped into it, which I just noticed yesterday.

I've just ordered a 15 tooth sprocket for the front, but I found a 14 tooth if I decide I don't have enough pull for the hills. I also purchased a 36 tooth for the rear. What chain size is standard on these bikes? That's my next purchase.

The stock chain is 428-108 Links, available in multiple places...

Petcock rebuild kits are still available, I just got one. My tank was in dreadful shape inside, I am using electrolysis to get rid of the rust and it is working great so far, another few days should do it. Bought a headlight build online too. Picked up in November, hope to have it ready to start next month sometime. Fun project!
Biz
Yeah this is my first post.......

Awesome! Good to have you here Biz. I'm going to have a tank cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaning tank and see how that works. Electrolysis sounds like the ticket as well. I hope you can post a picture or two of your results. :)

Hey Guys,

Haven't posted an update in a while, as the holidays get super busy at work for me with everyone else on vacation.

The bike now has a California title under my name. I non opped it for the meantime until I'm really ready to start riding her. I rebuilt a spare coil with new wires and caps. I found a full set of brake shoes for $30 from the same dealer I purchased my NOS tank from. And, I'm still wrestling with stuck bolts. Acetone and ATF should take care of those. Tomorrow (Friday) is my Sunday this week, so I'll be getting right to work in the morning.

ALSO:

I picked up a '63 parts bike for next to nothing today. It's in sorta rough condition, but isn't so far gone that it's not salvageable. The motor is seized, but it came with a front fender that's in 9 out of 10 condition. It's missing the seat, wheels, carb, swingarm, and tank. She's been sitting in his garage for years, so the rust is just superficial, and it could turn into a nice bike someday. For now, she'll sit in my garage.

The (I believe) Japanese gentleman who sold her to me had a great collection of CL305's. The shining jewel of his collection however was clearly his CB92. It was the only one I've ever seen in person, and I was blown away. He was apprehensive about me taking a picture, so I kindly obliged, but it was the most stunning Japanese motorcycle I've ever seen.

There is a CB92 0n Ebay UK at the moment, 14 bids and it's at £5,099 at the moment (about $7,700) and has not reached its reserve.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HONDA-CB92-/14...item20b65e71d8

Sam.:)

Parts bike:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6277714_n.jpg

Gregg, your parts bike is the early model, note the tacho drive and different frame pressing just before it goes behind the side covers.

Sam.:)

Sam,

Thanks for the reply. I know it is the early model, it's actually a '63. I couldn't resist it for the price. I really just wanted the engine for spare parts, but he wanted to sell it whole. After evaluating all the small bits still attached to this bike (many of which are resalable as CB92 interchangeable bits) I decided to take it. It's got the star shaped cable adjusters, a nice handlebar, a near perfect front fender, a good working speedo, a complete headlight assembly, ignition switch....too good to pass up.

Aside from the tach drive, how similar are the motors in early and late CA95's?

A forum member gave me a frozen 1964 CA95 engine and sold me a 1962 and a 1965 CA95 engine.
So far with all three engines broken down I cannot tell much difference with the exception of the tach drive from the 62. Being that all 3 engines were bad, but from different causes, I will be able to build two good engines with all of the parts salvaged. It looks like all the parts are all interchangable from early to late CA95's.

I don't suppose you're willing to part with the horn (if it's working...)?
I'm still looking for one.

Oh, and those little plugs that go in the front forks, right above the smaller chrome dots. (on either side, below the headlight assembly)

I'm not sure Gregg. The difference in the head was just the tacho drive.
The very early ones had different sized main bearings.
The only other obvious difference was the breather was on the top of the crankcase.

Sam.:)

cylinder liners
 

Don't have the best knowledge about engines and haven't taken my ca95 apart yet......and I'm sure I'll give that to some one else to do.
I see that there are liners that can be bought but don't see them in the 'parts break down'.
If I remember right the bike was smoking profusely ....hasn't been running for 25 years. If it needs pistons what would be the correct way of overhauling the engine.

The motor can be re-bored 4 times before the need to re-line.
Liners are an aftermarket product and cost more to buy and have fitted than finding a used block and oversized pistons.
First thing after stripping the motor is the clean the top of the piston. You will find the size stamped on the crown and can then look for the next size up providing the bore dose not have any deep score marks in it.
Any good machine shop will measure the block for you and tell what size pistons you need.
If the piston dose not have any numbers stamped on it, it is the standard 49mm piston. over bore sizes are .25mm .50mm .75mm and 1.00mm.
Good luck with your rebuild, come back if you run into any problems.

Sam.:)

Hey Guys,

Sorry I haven't updated in a while. I'm still having no luck un-stucking my muffler bolt. I can't express how frustrated I am. I can't get a socket over it because of its location behind the muffler. I've been soaking it with liquid wrench every day for a week, and finally tried heating it and wrenching on it to no avail. I'm sure it would've been easy if it wasn't so seized, but I can't get a tool in there with good enough leverage to free it. If you guys have any personal experience with this bolt please let me know your solution. I'm talking about the bolt that holds both the sprocket cover and forward muffler mount. It's gonna feel so f'kin good when I finally get it off...


I got the title in the mail, so I'm free and clear on that front at least.

Cheers fellas!

Ok, here is one of my "secrets"

Buy a 12V impact wrench at your local auto parts store, usually around $35.00. Usually the impact wrench is 1/2" drive.

Buy a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter.
Buy a cheap deep well 3/8 drive socket (size MM to fit)(not an impact socket)

I usually get my car close enough to my work to plug in the impact wrench.

The 12v impact wrench works by RPM then "hit". You will see what I mean.

The regular thin deep well socket will fit the nut. Your bolt will come off.

I keep my impact wrench in my car when I'm not using it. It makes changing flat tires a breeze.

i am wondering if you will have any trouble getting the title was the bike in the guys name you purchased it from?

Spokes, I think this would work for just about any OTHER stuck nut on this bike, but you have to look at the placement of this thing to understand what I'm talking about. I'm going to take a picture so you can see.


Mike, I have a clear title for this bike in my name.

It's FREE!!! Yippee!!!!!!

I think yesterday's combo of torch then liquid wrench, then tapping got her loose enough. I think I'll have to replace that nut, cuz it's pretty chewed up now, but finally free!!

Now I can remove that sprocket cover, replace the sprocket, clutch cable, lube that assembly, and find a new chain. I've decided to sit on that NOS tank I found, and I've bought a nicer tank for my CB500/4, so I'll use the beat up tank I'm currently using on her to get gas to the CA95. She hasn't run in six months, so I want to get her warmed up and change the oil, clean the filter etc without having to deal with the (not so) Dream-y petcock. Assembling the petcock and filling up the early model tank I have will be the last thing I do when I want to register her for riding.

i was just wondering because i dont have one looking for some advise besides a title company

It really depends on your state, and proving the chain of ownership. I can't really offer much help. You should speak with a local moto shop before going to the DMV, they can offer you more help than I.