CA95 Headlight Bulb

[Hotdoggin']

Any idea where to find this bulb 6V 35/35 Bulb?
Can't seem to find

[Smithers]

I would rebuild it.

[Smithers]

But seriously. Someone needs to find a replacement for these. I would start here: http://www.1000bulbs.com/

There are some out there somewhere... and the originals can sometimes be found. You might think that a junked ca95 in the bushes isn't worth $10... until you realize small nuts and bolts and these headlights might still be in one. :)

[rhodemon]

Most of the CA95 headlights in this country were sealed beam units. I have seen some replacement units that used a removeable Stanley bulb, and I have found some of those bulbs at various meets. I have always kept my old burnt out sealed beam units with the thought of converting them to a bulb type when I can't find them any more.

[SixtyFiveCA95]

I just found out that if you're careful enough, you can take a vise grips to the back part of the sealed beam unit, and twist it so you have a nice opening to retrofit a modern bulb in the old unit.

Now all I have to do is get an automotive style bulb, rewire a new connector for it, glue or caulk it in place, and it'll be brighter than they ever were.

[RobG]

An idea I kicked around for a while was to do like they do in the Model Ts. They are a 6 volt system also and there is a lot of literature on LED headlights for these things. Unfortunately many parts proved hard to come by or expensive. It would be a hell of an upgrade though. Still, I *Barely* ride at night on the KTM and just don't see it happening on the 95 so there isn't a motivation.

[SixtyFiveCA95]

I think that I'll probably get a H4 style bulb in the old headlight case. I see them online as cheap as $12. A connector will only cost around $4. So it'll be around the cost of a what a starting bid for a good original headlight on ebay would be. For being 40+ year old lights that could burn out as soon as you hooked it up, the $$$ that they bring is insane.

I probably won't take it out at night, either, but I'll still need it on the backroads around here.

[djbrett]

did you end up using a halogen bulb? I just ordered one. My math is probably off, but I think i'll have enough juice to keep it all running. how did you end up doing it and what were your results?

[passguy]

An idea I kicked around for a while was to do like they do in the Model Ts. They are a 6 volt system also and there is a lot of literature on LED headlights for these things. Unfortunately many parts proved hard to come by or expensive. It would be a hell of an upgrade though. Still, I *Barely* ride at night on the KTM and just don't see it happening on the 95 so there isn't a motivation.

yeah, nice approach.............i liked that

[Biz]

I bought one a couple months ago, an ebay store "Vintage Motorcycle parts warehouse" in Texas. It is a 25W/25W for a replaceable bulb type headlight light like mine is, and fits fine. Probably not going to do much riding at night anyways :) I found it by looking at a photo on another site and seeing the Stanley number A5655 on the bulb, then searching on that so I could find one in the States and get cheaper shipping. Only thing missing is the rubber boot that keeps moisture out of the back. I will probably just silicone it.

[weestrom05]

where can on find a socket and bulb to fit inside the hole of the sealed beam. All those that I have seen are 12 volt not 6. Thanks Curt

[Spokes]

All I have is 6 volt high low beam bulbs to fit the socket of replaceable type headlights for the CA95. Getting the bulb out of the sealed beam housing is challenge. I have done this by sacrificing one old headlight for its body and the other for its lens. The bulb can be unsoldered and released. You can set another 6 volt headlight bulb in the housing with epoxy and wire it up. I have a new lens for the sealed beam type somewhere in my shop as well.....

[weestrom05]

I have a sealed beam with the bulb removed. It consists of the reflector and lense which are in good shape. I cant seem to find a suitable socket and bulb to put in it. every thing Im finding is 12volt. which arent going to burn very brightly. Has anyone tried the Tiawanese copy six volt light that is listed on ebay? Thanks Curt

[weestrom05]

If this were glued into the reflector Maybe? http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1027835

[Spokes]

I have used the Tiawan headlamp on my previous CA160 Project. Other than needing a bright light indicator wire and the headlight trim fitting a bit tight, they work OK. If I need to replace the original lights I have, I will order the Asian replacements.

Any 6 volt headlight bulb will work in the headlamp. The VW one should work just fine. Below is a pic of the Stanley bulb replacement for the non sealed CA95 headlamp.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=32&pictureid=493

[weestrom05]

Thanks for the info on the asian light. I need to order mufflers anyway so i think I will keep it simple and use the tiwanese light. Thanks Curt

[Jetblackchemist]

When I first thought about this problem I thought a lot of autos used sealed square head lights, and using the dimensions one may be found super close and that you could use a capacitor to soak up the extra 6v.

Here's a place you should be able to get one meant to be a replacement part it's not exactly cheap either.

http://www.westernhillshondayamaha.com/

07 HEADLIGHT ASSY.
33100-203-000 (replaces 33120-203-000) 001 $91.66

Search by part number.

All the Dream headlights are the same.
From '59 forward.
CA92, CA160 work too, from what I understand.

You might want to first verify whether the part you order is:
a Actual Sealed Beam Or the Replacement Part which uses a Replaceable Bulb.

It's Possible to also Fabricate a bulb adaptor socket for a 6V 55w H-4 Halogen Bulb.

HUGE improvement in Lighting, the System Will handle it,,but it Should be run on a separate line with a Relay.
Which is Easy to Do with no cable slicing & it takes a BUNCH of load off the Light Switch.
Good Luck to all those hoping to not be left in the dark...sorry i couldnt resist :)

[kartgreen]

I have to say that I kind of cheated with my headlight . I took the chrome trim ring off of the headlamp assembly,removed the glass lense , removed the old light socket form the back of the headlamp and soldered a 2 post taillight recepticle to the back . I used an 1156 bulb and reassembled the glass lense and trim ring .
Not the brightest in the world ( no night driving ) but it does illuminate high/Low beam and passes a state inspection .

[Jetblackchemist]

I did some more digging around and ran across this place http://www.taillightking.com/Headlight_bulbs.htm cut and paste that sucker in your browser if it doesnt show as a link...theres 6v high/low beam bulbs on there plus other bulb goodies. The old willy's jeeps were 6v as well come to think of it. I guess it varies by state but I think here in N.C. if you have a antique/vintage you get to by pass the inspections ordeal.

[weestrom05]

I already spoken with the guys at Western Hills. They told me that all the chrome parts(oem) are gone. There has been a big interest in restoring old Benleys for the last 10 years. If you put a 12 volt bulb on a 6 volt system the bulb will glow but will not develop any where near full brightness. Simple fact of physics, there isnt enough pressure to force enough watts thru the filament.
I have already gone through the site of the taillight guy in North Carolina and
found that most of his 6 volt headlight bulbs require a socket that he sells for 217.00 Too pricey for my blood. The VW bulb that I referred to in a previous reply comes with the socket and is 10.00
I have looked for a 6 volt H4 bulb but at this point I havent found one. I think that 6 volt systems were outdated before Halogens were invented.
At this point, I think that the asian reproduction is the easiest, cheapest alternative, but Im open to other ideas. Also Spokes has already tried the repro and reported that it worked well. Thnks Curt

[KellieLyne]

I have a 1965 CA95 and I bought it from a guy in Ohio. When I got it here (CA) I couldn't wait to ride it. And RIDE IT I DID!!! Well until I got pulled over by the police. He first told me how cool the bike was and that he pulled me over to TWO reasons. One was so he could get a closer look at the bike and Two was that my brake lights were barely visible. So after talking to my husband he took a closer look at the bike. Someone put a 12v bulb in the 6v. housing. And yeah, you could barely see it come on.

[Spokes]

You can take some load off the CA95/160 electrical system with 6 Volt L.E.D. dual contact "bulbs". I found exact fitting sockets at superbrightleds.com Look for 6 Volt- 1157-R19. They come in Red an White. I bought a bunch just to have.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=32&pictureid=502
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=32&pictureid=501

[djbrett]

thanks spokes. been thinking about this. do we want the 15 or 100 option. Looks like, from the illustration, the 100 is brighter, so I am assuming that. also, I am assuming that we want one of them that does not list 12vdc, then it is just order and install.

[Spokes]

I'm not sure. I have a few extra, I will send you one. PM me one more time with an address.

[Jetblackchemist]

I was doing some more research and digging I was and possibly still am really considering switching over to 12 volt because people are making it sound very easy...one of those places mentioned the 6v leds etc. using BA9s as their descriptor for 6v bikes. So I googled BA9s and came up with some solutions that might keep me on 6v for now here is the page for the new stuff... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2FBA9S6_specs.htm and here is the page I sourced it from good for anyone in the UK... http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm at the bottom of that page theres lots of good info links just click the lil dot beside what you wanna see. If you want to find the same versions of that niffty link stuff in the US or other countries google the numbers for the part and see what happens...

[weestrom05]

Wouldnt changing to 12 volt involve replacing ll the coils of wire in the stator and rotor? In order to get twice the voltage you would need twice the wraps, I think. Will the rectiifier handle the additional voltage also? it seems that the changeover would involve reinventing the wheel. To my understnding the only electrical part that is unobtanium is the headlight and it can be replaced with the VW bulb or the headlight assembly being replaced with the Tiwanese aftermarket unit. Curt

[Jetblackchemist]

I have some experience with these 6 volt batteries from a old yamaha enduro I had years ago, and I'm not a fan of being a battery nanny, or it just saying poof i'm done. Of course back then There was only trickle charge with the caps off so it wouldn't take them off for you lol...maybe its better with the new tenders I dunno. But from some sites i've explored indepth talking about the switch over they say its not that hard, that the rectifier etc. hold up fine that even one of these coils can take a lot more than 12 volts. They pretty much say all you need is a voltage regulator 12v bulbs and a battery and your good to go...I have not done this as of yet personally so it's hear say right now, but they said when they went over to 12 volts they didnt change but those 3 things in the early models, whether thats the case or not i honestly dont know, since i havent back checked all of what they said, i'm still in the R of the D all research and as of yet no development... I thought i'd add a direct quote from someone thats made the switch... "on my '74 CB125 motor with a standard (not rewound) alternator. It's been running on 12v for about 500 miles now with a 35w halogen headlight and heated grips.

I bought a Royal Endield regulator/rectifier off ebay for £12, then all I did was connect the yellow and white wires out the alternator together to one side of the AC input and the pink wire to the other side , then obviously the 12v regulated DC output to a 4.5Ah battery.

Changed the coil and all lamps except the headlamp and indicators to LED and all works fine. I did 160 miles last time out, running with headlamp and Symtec heated grips on all day with no problems. As long as the revs are above 4000rpm with everything
on then the battery is charging." several others on there have done the swap too.

[Smithers]

Who want's to do the CA95 12 volt conversion so we can all learn. :-) If I had time I would do one. Too many projects...

[weestrom05]

Even if we do a 12 volt conversion, I dont think that there is a headlight bulb thst properly fits in the ca95.
As best that I can discern, all of the other bulb are available. Its only the headlight that is unobtanium. Since there is no 12 volt bulb available what i the point of making the conversion.
Unless Im badly mistaken, the starter would have to change, the coils, The rectifier and all of the other bulbs. How would you make the rotor and stator provide 12 volt?
Curt

[Smithers]

Anything can be done! Just takes some time and studying. :D There are electrical parts houses that could help wind new stators and answer questions. These guys are really good - https://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php Their website is pretty bad. I thought their older one was better. I've talked to them about doing some custom stuff in the past. Really nice people. An appropriate rectifier isn't a problem either. Quit talking me into another project!

[weestrom05]

I just nicely got into this one when i foundThe headlight problem nd the right hnd muffler problem. I have Vespa Grande waiting in the wings behind the Honda, so dont talk about other projects.
Curt

[Jetblackchemist]

:p aww Smithers you know you want to :) Actually, I might be the one ending up blazing the trail for the ca95 conversion, I'm going to get into the electrical, on mine later this week. The starter will just run faster as more juice it can handle it no worries, the stator and rectifier can actually handle more than 12 volts. The early Hondas on the cusp of switching to 12v from 6v carried the same rectifier and stators as the 6v. and worked just fine. 6v bulbs actually carry more resistance than 12v bulbs do, so 12v is easier on your system. The only additions will be a 12v battery a 12v coil or another 6v in series with the old 6v, 12v bulbs, and a voltage regulator, or if you prefer a regulator/rectifier combo, and thats it. you can re-wrap the stator if you want but its not needed. Stators only had an expected life of 5 years or less. I'll keep you all informed. The headlights are getting impossible to find as it is already, and the 6v dual beam bulbs are going that way too, 12v is only everything and makes cycle life so much easier IMHO think of your 12v bike if you have one....would you want it to run on 6v? hell no.

[Smithers]

Awesome! I think they just threw 6v systems on the bikes because it saved them money - and back in the day probably saved the owner money buying 6v batteries maybe? 12v system upgrade is almost mandatory in terms of safety. We really need more light on these bikes on the streets.

Weestrom05: Lately I have had a really, really bad habit of starting projects of the 4 wheel veriety. I do not recommend this to anyone. Stick with 2 wheels!! I see light at the end of the tunnel though! I can't wait to get back to the motorcycle work bench.

[Jetblackchemist]

My guess would be Mr Honda in doing his research only toured European cycle plants, if we look at Europe, around that time...BSA, Triumph, and of course his favorite the MZ were all using 6 volt systems. I am sure MZ got it from the UK? or vice versa since MZ is the longest running production motorcycle Co. over there.

We all know or perhaps have heard that the UK has a great history of the most ass backward wiring systems ever...lol. I am willing to bet Mr Honda didn't want to reinvent the wheel and just used what he knew worked.

I doubt that US plants would have opened their arms wide to a Japanese man so soon after Pearl Harbor.

I am willing to bet that the only reason these are rare and we get to restore them is because of that 6v system. These things were treated as a toy, if the electrical went out or something else it just got parked and left to rot, there wasn't Honda dealers in every city either.

Thats just part of my theory on why they started with 6 volts.

12v is definitely safer, you don't have to play nanny on a battery, you can accessorize to your hearts content, your lights will be brighter your horn a lot louder, no overcharge of the battery while riding. These's just too much in the pros column for than there are against.

Remember these things didn't come with turn signals. So having to add those in compliance with the DMV really taxes the little system more than it all ready is.

I'll be ordering the parts to do mine this week, when I get it all together I'll be sure to make a good tutorial with lots of photos for you guys. In the mean time I'll work on a little tut on how I polish aluminum.

[Smithers]

Very good.

[weestrom05]

every one is telling me that I have to add an additional wire when using the Tiwanese replacement head light. Where does it go? when I looked at the wiring diagram on line all I see is a red wire going to the high beam and a blue wire going to the low beam I dont see an indicator light on my bike for the high beam, only the neutral indicator. Thanks Curt

[Spokes]

Early CA95's had no high beam indicator where as later models did. Look closely at your speedometer. At 12 oclock you should see a small red lens. If you don't have the lens, then you need not bother with the additional wire.

IF you have the lens then connect the wire from that bulb to the blue wire(i think) The high beam energizes the high beam indicator light in the speedo.

[weestrom05]

Thanks, Mine must be an early one i cant find a red light. Curt

[bluerider]

[QUOTE=Jetblackchemist;6523]My guess would be Mr Honda in doing his research only toured European cycle plants, if we look at Europe, around that time...BSA, Triumph, and of course his favorite the MZ were all using 6 volt systems. I am sure MZ got it from the UK? or vice versa since MZ is the longest running production motorcycle Co. over there. QUOTE]

I suspect that the early bikes were 6v for the same reason that the old VW's were 6v, to save on weight. I remember the 6v battery in my 63 VW was way hevier than the new 6v batteries with the same amps. half as many cells saves a bunch of weight and with such a small motor weight is the enemy.

I'd love to see what a 6v HID could do for a CA95, to bad we will never find out.

Robin

[Jetblackchemist]

Quite possibly that's part of it mk and vw(peoples car) are both German so it makes sense that they wouldn't stray too far from what was being done at the time. I finally got all my parts in today for the 6v to 12v conversion, it will be awhile til I get to that part of the build since I am deep into the engine atm.

[Jetblackchemist]

Hi everyone I believe I have found a good source A5655 Bulbs that currently have a little over 1000 in stock. Here is the link http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/t.pl?searchb=A5655&bclick.x=15&bclick.y=6 Ignore the first result click on the Stanley or the link after.
I hopes this helps everyone needing a replacement or extras for just in case.

[Smithers]

Oh wow they have the complete illustrated dimensions and specs on that exact bulb. Great find JB!

[weestrom05]

I have one of these but where does one find a socket to fit them. I would like to mount one in the original sealed beam.
thanks Curt

[bluerider]

I havn't had a chance to poke around the headlight on my CA95 so I am a bit in the dark in more then one way. Could one of these be used for the socket to graft onto an original sealed beam bulb to make it a replaceable?

http://dratv.com/ecveofaoffro.html

[Jetblackchemist]

I think the hardest part would be getting into the sealed beam itself. I haven't tried myself but I think others on here have rebuilt them, I think spokes has, maybe even smithers. My head light that I thought was blown is working with the 12v conversion I did so I haven't had the need to replace it or rebuild. Perhaps someone that has done a rebuild could help? That Drat tv link looks to have some good supplies and resources for doing it. Id go for the long thin tube bulb myself, as that seems like it would fit into the hole where the remains of the old bulb sat. I dont see getting one of those large bulbs in the sealed beam without cutting the glass beam open, which might prove tricky.

[weestrom05]

on the lamp that came with my bike, the previous owner had cut the back of the reflector off removing the filaments and the base. There is a three quarter inch hole in the back of the reflector that could be enlarged to accomodate the European style bulb.
Curt

[Spokes]

Yes, I have replaced the 6V bulb in the sealed beam CA95 headlight. But it is tricky.

I start with Two burned out lights. The light body that looks the best I break out the lens, The light bodies are very thin plated steel. Breaking out the lens keeps the crimp around the light untouched and you can recover the gasket.

The 2nd light I remove the lens without worrying about distorting the metal. Basically I waste the light body to gain a clean lens.

The bulb is soldered in. So very carefully, lightly heat the BULB BASE until the lead melts and the bulb can be removed.

I have used 6V vintage automotive bulbs for the early VW's which are still available.

I resolder the bulb base (or you can epoxy it in place) then carefully open up the crimp on the light body, place back the lens gasket, add some clear sealant and press the lens back into place. Press the crimp back with a wooden dowel.

Harvest the wires from the wasted 2nd light and solder to the new bulb contacts.

If you want to be creative, you can put any voltage bulb in the headlamp you wish and use epoxy like JB Weld to secure it.

CAUTION! WEAR GLOVES AND SAFETY GLASSES! YOUR WORKING WITH BROKEN GLASS AND THIN SHARP STEEL!

Or just buy a new Asian unit................

[VegeKev]

Just a quick update for anyone who has done the 12V conversion and wants a bulb that fits the replaceable-type headlight....I think these should fit...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280823919998?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

They have the P15d30 base (same as original 6V) and are 45/45W. I'll let you know if they fit.....;)

Kev.:)

[Roberd42]

Ok guys. I have an idea I'm attempting here. I whipped out the dremel cut off wheel and nipped off the base of the sealed beam bulb. Then took a screwdriver, broke up the bulb glass on the inside and dumped it out of the bulb hole. Then I went to my local junk yard, grabbed a broken headlight off of a 2004 suzuki something (because it was busted up, the yard dog have it to me for free :D). Turns out it has an H7 bulb. Then I cut the reflector around the h7 adapter with a hack saw, then expoxied the adapter to the back of the benly housing. It was a snug fit. I then ordered a high/low beam 6-36v LED self driven bulb off of eBay for $18. My plan is to fit the LED in the new adapter and see how it does on the 6v system. I have one on my '76 Rd400 (12v) and it works great. Bulb details and some pictures here:

--Product name: Motorcycle LED Headlight
--Material : Aluminum Alloy
--Size: 80mmX31mmX31mm
--Item Type: 1800LM Motorcycle Headlight
--Color: 5000K-6500K/White
--Qty of LED: 3pcs 6W COB LED
--Power:15W/pc@high beam(10W/pc@low beam)
--Voltage:DC 6V~36V
--Luminous Flux: 1800LM/pc@high beam(1200LM/pc@low beam)
--Beam Angle: 360°
--Available Base: H4/PH7/PH11
--Lifespan: 50000 hrs+
--Warranty: 12 months

Applications:
Motorcycle headlamp, fog light, daytime running light, driving light, etc.

[Roberd42]

A photo of the lens modified.

[Smithers]

LED's would be a great upgrade for all the lights on these bikes. Then we wouldn't get so much flickering. It will take some tinkering but you just need to have the proper spacing on the bulb to get the project right. Can't wait to see the results.

[Roberd42]

I've got a 6v led 1154 tail lamp bulb coming in going to try. I converted the neutral light to a more modern green one with a 6v led soldered in. I bought a bundle of 6v white leds. All that leaves are the speedo lamps. The high beam indicator is red right? I may get some of the 6v BA6s bulbs on eBay. In red and white.

[ByTheLake]

LED's would be a great upgrade for all the lights on these bikes. Then we wouldn't get so much flickering. It will take some tinkering but you just need to have the proper spacing on the bulb to get the project right. Can't wait to see the results.Right, and I assume that the LEDs would draw less power. I modified my Benly's sealed beam with a 6 volt automotive headlight bulb from a FIAT, but if I run more than 10 minutes with the headlight on, the fuse blows.

[Roberd42]

Typically LEDs have the same or higher lumen ratings as incandescents with lower wattage and much longer life. That's why the new CFLs might say 15w but 60w equivalent (based on lumens). Unfortunately none of the lumen rating equivalency systems to wattage have been standardized. So it's sort of a shot in the dark. You buy a bulb with 15w and just have to try it to see if it meets your needs.

What's the wattage of the fiat bulb? If it's too high, it may be popping your fuse as amps = watts/voltage. In our systems you have to add everything together since there's only one fuse.

The factory bulb is 25/35w. The LED I ordered is 10/15w @1800 lumen. However, on 6v, I'm expecting more like 1,300 lumens. A typical incandescent is 16 lumen per watt, a 6 volt is probably more like 13. So the factory bulb, on high, would put out roughly 450 lumens. So the new bulb should be three times brighter on half the wattage.

The taillight and speedo bulbs don't say what wattage they are. So another shot in the dark there. The speedo bulbs are used on lionel trains and guitar amps from what I can tell.

[Roberd42]

Well, the 6v led bulb fits great in the housing, and is really bright. But it's a no go for fitting on the bike. It's about half an inch too deep and bumps the speedo cable. Looks like I'll be getting a 6v H4 25w/25w halogen off of ebay.

[Northey]

Hey everyone, I bought a model T bulb for less than $2 from macsauto.com http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_t/electrical.html I soldered the wires to the bulb and siliconed it into a cut apart bad ebay headlight. It seems to work fine. It isn't perfect but it works. The bulb is a 32/50 candle power. Northey

[Roberd42]

Ok, got the darned LED to fit in the headlight housing. Had to abandon the bulb adapter idea. Instead, cut a larger bulb hole in the lens then used a large grommet from harbor freight (of course the rubber is crap, I will be sourcing a better quality one probably from eBay). Now the heatsink sits close to the lens. It's a tight fit in there but works. Technology will catchup one day I'm sure. Here's some pictures. Sorry the forum will only upload
One photo per post on iOS.

[Roberd42]

Photo 2

[Roberd42]

Photo 3