2014 Frame Off Restoration

[Colorado66]

Hi Folks,
I'm new here and this is my first post. My name is Doug and I just bought a Benly 150 a couple weeks ago to restore.
I've not owned a motorcycle before but always wanted a classic. So I picked up this project for $400. I intend to restore it, get my license and ride it as a sunny day cruiser.
Having restored a 68 Firebird from a shell, I realize what I'm getting into. This will cost much more than buying something already restored and I'll blow my budget by 300%.

It's a hobby and I'm just here to have fun.

I'll post progress pictures and surly have questions. I've already tapped into the wealth of information you all have posted previously and thank you for it.

The bike has sat in a barn in Nebraska since 1974. The wheels were sunken in the dirt as it hadn't been moved or started in 40 years. It has bumps and bruises and I'll be replacing some body parts with less dinged ones.
I've since located a lot of parts on ebay, still needing a right side carb cover. Engine has been hot tanked and bored .25 over. New rings and pistons are here but I'll be needing a valve job before reassembling head.
Next week it's off to the chrome shop to have a dozen parts re-plated. Once the rest of the body parts arrive, it'll be off to the media blaster.

Just wanted to say hi and thank you for all the great information posted on this forum.
Doug

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/IMG_1540_zps5cfe3881.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/IMG_1540_zps5cfe3881.jpg.html)
Brought her home on Dec 30th.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0959_zps400ac02a.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0959_zps400ac02a.jpg.html)
All the wiring has been chewed by mice. Will need a new harness along with other electrical parts. Might need a new stator since the rodents chewed down so far on the wiring.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1120_zps6ae7f736.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1120_zps6ae7f736.jpg.html)
After getting the engine back from having it cleaned, it appears this could use a valve job. New valves ordered and back to the shop next week.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1060_zps1694825a.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1060_zps1694825a.jpg.html)
We'll see how bad the rust is once it comes back from the media blaster.

[ByTheLake]

Hi Doug, and welcome aboard. Truly glad to see another restoration starting. It's been quiet here in the forum, so we're due for a new project.

Thanks for posting the nice clear pictures, too. Looks like a solid foundation for a restoration.

I see the wheel rims have seen better days - pretty typical for old wheels, though. Replacements are available.

Looking forward to following your progress. Don't hesitate to post any questions.

Kevin

[Colorado66]

Hi Kevin,
Yes, those rims don't look like they will polish out. You can sort of make out how deep they sat in the dirt all those years.
Love the documentation on your restoration, it's been very helpful seeing what you did, thank you.
Looks like ebay has a few rims in Thailand that cost less than the shipping.
If anyone has recommendations on buying rims here in the states at the same or slightly higher price, please post away with your recommendations. Will also be looking for some nice whitewalls.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0936_zpsb4ba92ff.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0936_zpsb4ba92ff.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

I bought these rims for my last build
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-rim-1-6x16-36-holes-ST90-Yamaha-Suzuki-Kawasaki-H2682-/140755326533?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item20c5abd645&vxp=mtr
The original rims are 16 x 1.85. The rims above are 1.60 but you can't tell the difference,
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=73&pictureid=1015

There was one slight modification. The spoke holes had to be slightly reamed out. So if your have a reamer, or know a shop that does, these rims worked well for me.
Below is a pic of the bike with the Yamaha rims. This bike was a rusty white bike like yours.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=73&pictureid=1051

[Larzfromarz]

Welcome to the group! Kevin is right we need a new project here to follow on the board...your is definitely a project...perfect!
looking forward to more pics.
Larz

[Smithers]

Hi Doug welcome aboard! If you need any whacky parts just give us a shout here in your thread and you might get a response from one of us if we have a spare. Are you going with the white color? And what does the speedo read for miles travelled on that bike? That front sprocket sure has seen some miles so I'm curious what it has on the clock.
http://fourwheelperformance.com/phorum/icon_ride.gif

[Colorado66]

Thanks for the guidance spokes, I'm glad you mentioned that front sprocket wear, I probably wouldn't have noticed it.
Guess I'll be looking for one of those in the future.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1023_zpsd60ed745.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1023_zpsd60ed745.jpg.html)
As for painting, leaning towards White as it's original color, but I sure like the look of those Red ones.

Doesn't seem like a lot of miles but I think it was rode hard.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0895_zps0036586b.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0895_zps0036586b.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1073_zpse9924a72.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1073_zpse9924a72.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1077_zpsf2d97ccc.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1077_zpsf2d97ccc.jpg.html)

[Larzfromarz]

I see you've already figured your speedometer out...

[ByTheLake]

I see you've already figured your speedometer out...Yeah, I'm suspecting that Doug may have sold used cars in the past. :D

[Colorado66]

Yeah, I'm suspecting that Doug may have sold used cars in the past. :D

:)
Which reminds the ignition needs a little attention...
now if it will just go back together.
Think there is enough there to have a new key made?

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1138_zpsfa0e835e.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1138_zpsfa0e835e.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1144_zpsc195f9db.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1144_zpsc195f9db.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1147_zps3eb25567.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1147_zps3eb25567.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

Send this guy the numbers found on the outside of the tumbler. He sent me keys for CA95 ignition switches in the past.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-nos-ignition-key-CA77-CL77-CA95-CB77-CA-CB-CL-72-77-95-early-NA-NB-series-/301070487172?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4619330e84&vxp=mtr

[Colorado66]

Send this guy the numbers found on the outside of the tumbler. He sent me keys for CA95 ignition switches in the past.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-nos-ignition-key-CA77-CL77-CA95-CB77-CA-CB-CL-72-77-95-early-NA-NB-series-/301070487172?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4619330e84&vxp=mtr

DONE! Thankz, just what I needed.

[ByTheLake]

Send this guy the numbers found on the outside of the tumbler. He sent me keys for CA95 ignition switches in the past.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-nos-ignition-key-CA77-CL77-CA95-CB77-CA-CB-CL-72-77-95-early-NA-NB-series-/301070487172?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4619330e84&vxp=mtrFor the original numbered key to work, will all those little pieces need to go back together in the same sequence they were originally in?

[Colorado66]

For the original numbered key to work, will all those little pieces need to go back together in the same sequence they were originally in?

Yes sir, they do.
The four little tumbler pins shown below the lock cylinder vary in length and sit directly on the key cuts..
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/330d5a60-621e-442c-94f6-8e6d6e8cce87_zps8d0b422f.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/330d5a60-621e-442c-94f6-8e6d6e8cce87_zps8d0b422f.jpg.html)
When the key is in place they should all be level.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/01829150-e731-4291-a3d4-5a7c883cf82e_zps2d691c71.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/01829150-e731-4291-a3d4-5a7c883cf82e_zps2d691c71.jpg.html)

Fortunately I had the broken off key to confirm their original positions.

The eight tiny ones (all the same size) fit in two spring loaded rows within the outer cylinder and are a real challenge when sliding the lock cylinder in place.
It was helpful using bearing grease to hold the parts in place and an Exacto blade to guide the cylinder in.
Spokes recommendation on where to get a key was great... the guy actually had the same numbered key which will be here next week.
Will see if this went back together the right way.

[Larzfromarz]

the guy actually had the same numbered key which will be here next week.
You did by more than one right????:p
I always try for at least two keys if/when I get/copy them. At least I have a locksmith buddy who can lose those small parts for me:o
L

[Colorado66]

You did by more than one right????:p


I wish, he only had the one key.

Could someone please recommend a sprocket combination?

Since the front and rear sprockets are worn out and I need a new chain, what tooth counts would be a good match up for speeds under 50 and mountain driving?
Thanks!

[ByTheLake]

Well, the "speeds under 50" part won't be a problem.

These little engines don't have a lot of grunt, so if I recall Sam's previous feedback correctly, its typically best to stick with the stock ratios.

The rear is 36 teeth, and I count 14 teeth on my original front sprocket.

[Spokes]

The chain is a #428 The link count is 116 or so.

I buy the 428-120 and shorten the length. $12.99-and higher depending on quality from eBay.

[Colorado66]

Thanks guys... 14/36 sprockets and a 428-120 link chain it is.
Speaking of chains, is it standard to change out the cam and starter chains when rebuilding an engine?

All the body parts were dropped off at the metal stripper today. Fuel tank gets a chemical bath, the rest media blasted. $110 for everything.. not too bad.

Head is getting a valve job and should be ready next week. Hope to start putting the engine back together by next weekend.

In the meantime it's scrubbing little parts like the starter, polishing aluminum and reading as many of the threads on this forum as I can :)

Was this a green, white or red bike?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1158_zps1c3ed338.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1158_zps1c3ed338.jpg.html)

That lower cover is going to require some help. Will break out the welder to patch in new metal once it comes back from the metal stripper.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1160_zpsb9dd19f8.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1160_zpsb9dd19f8.jpg.html)

Disassembled starter
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1174_zps4dbfa672.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1174_zps4dbfa672.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

Based on her "tan" lines, she was/is a white bike. These bikes came in red, blue, black and white.

[Larzfromarz]

And yes, I ALWAYS replace the cam chain. Starter chains are much easier to get to for repair. Both are 219 sized and master links are the same.
L

[Colorado66]

Got a few things done this weekend.
The starter went back together.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1175_zps667d9385.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1175_zps667d9385.jpg.html)

Oil pump was full of gunk and the check balls were stuck.
Bit of a panic briefly. I use a plastic oil change pan to clean parts in the garage then take them in the house and rinse in hot water.
When putting this back together I realized I dumped the check valve spring down the drain.
Thank goodness my wife didn't run the disposal.
With a flashlight and telescopic magnet it was found and retrieved.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1182_zpscb9247d1.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1182_zpscb9247d1.jpg.html)

Here's some (not all) of the painted parts getting ready for the oven.
Takes 1 hour at 200 degrees to cure.
The head is getting a valve job, so MIA.
I'm replacing that top case, it's just too corroded and the replacement will be here in a few days.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1187_zps9e9ec5c6.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1187_zps9e9ec5c6.jpg.html)

I mentioned earlier all the wires had been chewed by mice so I needed a new stator. Picked one up on ebay but noticed a few variations in the way it's wired. Also the part numbers are different.
Wondering if I should splice the harness onto the old stator or if it's ok to use the ebay one.
What do you all think?

Notice part number's being different
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1189_zps86dd7837.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1189_zps86dd7837.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1191-1_zpsca2e6e14.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1191-1_zpsca2e6e14.jpg.html)

The key showed up for the ignition, it worked! Again... thanks for the tip on where to purchase NOS keys!
I'm guessing not all five of those indicator marks were painted red and will research what colors those dots were... also what the positions stand for.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1192_zps11b20bc1.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1192_zps11b20bc1.jpg.html)

[ByTheLake]

Nice job with the starter. Did you give it a test? You can toss a set of jumper cables on it and hook it to a 12v car battery for a quick test - it should pounce to life.

The corroded part of the upper case would be covered by the carb shields, if you choose to use them. My engine was the same way. I'm assuming it was where the mouse nest rested on the engine. The mouse urine eats away the aluminum.

Regarding the 'wire ends here' portion of the new stator, I downloaded your picture from Photobucket and zoomed in for a closer look. If I'm looking at the same area, it simply looks like the wrapped inner windings - I didn't see anything that appeared to be cut or damaged.

These key switches are needlessly complex, serving as the headlight/tail light switch, too, among other things. Here's a picture of my switch, along with a shot of the manual that describes the settings. The colors of the switch dots aren't important, but rather the positions are. 2nd dot from the bottom is 'off', moving one dot up is the regular running position (with no lights), etc.

http://www.forths.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/ca95keyswitch.jpg

http://www.forths.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/ca95ignitionswitchpositions.jpg

[Spokes]

Great job! It's always a pleasure to watch another CA95 come back to life. I want to make an early suggestion regarding the clutch actuator. I struggled with stiff clutch syndrome with a couple of my builds, especially with my build from scratch project. The solution was to dress the "auger" portion with a burnishing wheel. Now my clutch is dream easy. So before you reinstall the clutch actuator mechanism make sure the "auger" portion has no sharp edges or burrs.

[ByTheLake]

I want to make an early suggestion regarding the clutch actuator. I struggled with stiff clutch syndrome with a couple of my builds, especially with my build from scratch project. The solution was to dress the "auger" portion with a burnishing wheel. Now my clutch is dream easy. So before you reinstall the clutch actuator mechanism make sure the "auger" portion has no sharp edges or burrs.Hmm ... my clutch is a tad firm for such a tiny bike. Since I need to pull the motor to repair the kick-starter, maybe I'll give this a try.

What does your burnishing wheel look like? I use cotton buffing wheels, and wire wheels, but a Google images search on burnishing wheels turns up all sorts of different types.

[Colorado66]

Thanks for all the advise and suggestions!

BTL... that ignition diagram is great... very helpful, thank you.
So I did as you suggested and hooked up the jumper cables to the starter.... it buzzed to life... it works :)
Also, I beleive you're right on that winding wire, appears to be a factory dead-end wire. So I'll try the newly acquired stator in the build.

Spokes... I know this is a stupid question, but what is the clutch actuator? Do you have a picture or part number so I can look it up?
I'll certainly take the recommendation and burnish/polish any burrs off.

Also, here's that new front sprocket... much nicer than the old one. Amazing how much was worn off and the uneven wear.
At first I thought it wouldn't fit because the center grooves weren't as deep as the original, but it fits like a glove and has clearance for the sprocket plate.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1206_zps7ac7347d.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1206_zps7ac7347d.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

The clutch actuator looks like this
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=73&pictureid=1081
I got this pic from ebay,

BTL,

This is the wheel I'm referring to:http://www.drillspot.com/products/60280/Norton_662610-55226_Convolute_Wheel

I have a used burnishing (deburring) wheel you can have. It still has some life in it and you will need to use a bushing to fit your grinder/buffer. PM if your interested.

Tool & Die at the shop refers to this wheel as a burnishing wheel.

[Sam Green]

Hi Colorado, you need to be careful mixing crankcase halves, they are very hard to match.
When the cases come out of the casting shop, they are bolted together and line bored for the crank and gearbox holes.
They then go on another machine that trues the side mating surfaces for the clutch cover and generator housing.
I guess that every so often a tool will break and the machine will be reset Which will cut a perfect surface but not exactly the same as the previous one, two halves from different motors can be miles out, ask me how I know.:D
When you get the replacement top half, bolt the two together and check the side mating surfaces for flatness at the joints front and back then try again with the crank and gearbox in, these holes can also be miles out and the two halves won't seal.

Sam.:)

[ByTheLake]

Hi Colorado, you need to be careful mixing crankcase halves, they are very hard to match.
When the cases come out of the casting shop, they are bolted together and line bored for the crank and gearbox holes.
They then go on another machine that trues the side mating surfaces for the clutch cover and generator housing.
I guess that every so often a tool will break and the machine will be reset Which will cut a perfect surface but not exactly the same as the previous one, two halves from different motors can be miles out, ask me how I know.:D
When you get the replacement top half, bolt the two together and check the side mating surfaces for flatness at the joints front and back then try again with the crank and gearbox in, these holes can also be miles out and the two halves won't seal.

Sam.:)Very interesting, Sam ... thanks for the education. Doug, given that the upper case corrosion is purely cosmetic, and that the carb shields would hide the blemishes, it might be best to just stick with what you have.

[Colorado66]

Now I'm glad I bought the entire case (upper & lower)

The engine numbers are 2,893 builds apart.
CA95E-500-9717 (currently)
CA95E-500-6824 (new purchase)

So should I be OK using my internals in the new case?

Anything else I should look out for using a different case?

Thanks for the help... I'm going to need a lot more :)

[Spokes]

I have to pipe up about mix & match parts for the CA95. The bike below
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=811

I built it from scratch. Not one part is original. The engine top is a 1965, the bottom is a 64, the head and cylinders are '64 a few transmission gears are '62. I took 3 bad engines, a 1962, 1964 and a 1965 and built one. I actually assembled the engine with old pistons with new rings and it ran. Later on (last year) I bored the cylinder, added new pistons, rings, wrist pins and a valve job because the engine burned oil. Now it's my daily rider and runs like a top.

Not to debunk Sam's advice of BTL's expertise, after all they out rank me in every way, but to point out that these little Honda's have a lot of interchangeable parts and Honda was/is the industry leader of production standardization. So swap away (IMO)

[ByTheLake]

Ha, I'm forever a student here, Chip. I've only restored one of these little beasts, while half of them on the road today can trace their lineage to your garage. Good info.

Sounds like Doug is acquiring parts at a rapid clip, anyway.

[Colorado66]

That is a sweet looking bike..! That's awesome you built it from scratch!
Feeling better about this project all the time.

Speaking of parts... there are half rings (set rings) used to align the transmission bearings in the upper case.
Are there supposed to be four (4) altogether for upper and lower? Or just the upper case?
As I started pre-fitting things I could only find one of the set rings, so I either lost one or three of them.
I've since ordered two off ebay, which means I'll either have an extra or still need one.

[VegeKev]

only two required....;)

[Colorado66]

The new case showed up yesterday and as luck would have it they left one of the set rings in place... so now I have two extra's on their way :rolleyes:

Went to drop off parts to be re-chromed today only to find out the place I've used previously has gone out of business. There is no one in Denver that chrome plates anymore so I'm going to have to ship these parts out.

Sent the below picture to several shops across the country asking for quotes.

What do you all think these pieces will end up costing?

Do you think I'm leaving any pieces out? The headlamp ring is NOS, so I wont need it done.

Wondering if there are new parts out there that would be more economical to purchase than re-chrome.

Thanks for opinions/recommendations and guidance :)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/facfb2b8-5859-47e9-ac1a-03eacd43fcdf_zpsc3494008.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/facfb2b8-5859-47e9-ac1a-03eacd43fcdf_zpsc3494008.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

I have used:http://www.nashvilleplatingservice.com/ and http://www.brownsplating.com/

Nashville plating is less expensive but Browns plating is by far the best. Hold on to your shorts when you get the estimates. Chrome, nickel and hazardous chemical disposal has increased the cost of plating. I will guess in the $350-$500 range. The tank panels will take up most of the cost.

Buffing the chrome with gold rouge and a good set of wheels can bring out the chrome nicely. The bike I pictured above had no re-chrome, just buffed out and waxed.

But since you asked...IMO, I would not re-chrome the brake peddle. I suggest using this aftermarket kick start arm http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-C110-C111-C115-C200-C201-CT200-Kick-Start-Arm-NEW-/310433447260?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACA95&hash=item4847467d5c&vxp=mtr

I would shop for a clean shifter and lower fork covers and buy some chrome polish for the shock lowers and newly found parts above.

So plating the tank panels and handlebars will keep you in below $400. Be advised that I may be estimating low. I paid $380 for the same parts in 2008

[ByTheLake]

I was going to guess $500, so it sounds like I was in the ballpark.

Are the handlebars bent? They appear so in the picture. You may want to straighten them before sending them for re-plating.

[Colorado66]

I was going to guess $500, so it sounds like I was in the ballpark.

Are the handlebars bent? They appear so in the picture. You may want to straighten them before sending them for re-plating.

Yes, they are. I'm not sure if the right one is bent forward or the left one bent backward. What do you think?

Spokes, thanks for the tips on the chrome platers, I'm sending them requests for quotes as well.
In the back of my mind I was thinking it would be $400-$600, which has my shorts full to capacity.
I'll post back on here what I end up with.

[Colorado66]

Well the quotes came back in for re-chroming those parts, they ranged $600 - $760 :eek:
I think I'll reduce the number of parts to be plated.

The engine is starting to come together, just waiting on the new timing chain before continuing.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1225_zps20dad743.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1225_zps20dad743.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1244_zpsa45adbea.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1244_zpsa45adbea.jpg.html)

Regarding the valves and setting clearance, can they be set using the feeler gauge between the back of the lobe and the rocker shown below rather than at the valve stem? It's just easier to get to with it disassembled.
Since I can see the back side of the lobes it's easy to line up then set the gap... is that the right spot for the cam to be on the lifters to take the measurement?
I'm sure you can tell by my questions I haven't done this before so appreciate all the help I can get. :)
Thanks!
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1265_zpsae0f57a6.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1265_zpsae0f57a6.jpg.html)

[ByTheLake]

Really coming along quickly - very nice. I'm not surprised at the chrome plating cost estimates. I had similar estimates, so it was less costly to buy tank panels that were in decent condition than to re-plate.

My thoughts on the valve lash measurements...

Once the engine is assembled and mounted, you'll have only one way to measure the valve lash anyway - through the adjustment ports. Besides, the valve stem is a flat surface rather than curved like the cam and follower, so you'll likely get a more accurate reading. It's probably best to avoid any chances of scuffing the polished surfaces of the cams and followers, even though the feeler gauge is fairly smooth itself. I suppose your method will get you close enough for an initial start-up.

[Spokes]

My advice regarding setting the rocker clearance is rogue. There are set procedures for doing this adjustment, but I don't follow them. Maybe BTL and/or Sam will chime in. My daily rider starts in an instant and runs quiet.

Clean the adjuster stem threads and nut free of oil. Pick any rocker for the first adjustment. Rotate the cam until the rocker is sloppy. Adjust the stem down until you feel just a little slop. Lift the tappet up and down until you hear a faint "tap" Apply locktite to the threads, screw on the nut. Tighten the nut while holding the square stem head. After the final tightening, feel the rocker and make sure just a little slop and be able to move the rocker up and down hearing just a faint "tap" I think the actual clearance is .002 or so, but when ever I tried to adjust by the book, my engine sounded like the rockers needed adjustment.

The chrome prices are wild for sure. You would be amazed what a buffing motor, wheel and some gold rouge can do. A $100 -$125 investment that goes a long way.

[ByTheLake]

Chip, I do something similar when setting the valve lash on my little '65 Honda Super Cub. When I adjust to spec, it doesn't sound or run as well, but when I adjust using "the force", basically by feel and sound, the little bike runs and sounds great.

I wish my DOHC Triumph was as easy to adjust.

[gbaumgratz]

I wish, he only had the one key.

Could someone please recommend a sprocket combination?

Since the front and rear sprockets are worn out and I need a new chain, what tooth counts would be a good match up for speeds under 50 and mountain driving?
Thanks!

I haven't been on here in quite some time but the email updates I get brought me back when I saw a new restoration started. As for the key you can also try: http://hondakeys.com Mark has quite a few keys and I have purchased from him in the past. The only pain is the cash, check, or MO payment plans.

Greg

[Sam Green]

I've never set the tappets with the motor in the bike since 66 when it was my daily ride.
With racing these bikes, the motor is in and out all the time and the tappets get done on the bench before the motor goes back in.
I think I've mentioned it on here before, I do it by ear, when you've done it that many times, you get to know what it should sound like.
There isn't a problem with setting them on the base of the cam, you will get the same reading. If you end up with noisy tappets, you might want to check that your valve surface's are not worn. I've never seen a hollow in a Benly valve but I do know it happens on some other bikes.

Sam.:)

[Colorado66]

Got the parts back from the paint stripper this week.
They did a chemical dip on the tank and chain guard, the rest were media blasted. $110 for everything.. not bad.
Good news, most of the parts were in great rust free condition, bad news the lower chain guard is trashed. I'll use the piece for practicing my filler skills and have since located a really nice set of chain guards, so back to the paint stripper when they arrive.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1297_zps8d1a3855.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1297_zps8d1a3855.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1298_zps047c524c.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1298_zps047c524c.jpg.html)

Here's the parts in clean raw metal:
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1323_zps21142a93.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1323_zps21142a93.jpg.html)
Notice I already started practicing my bondo skills :) That piece will not be used on this restoration.

My mufflers are rusted through so bought some Bangkok ones. They are nice but not at all like the originals.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1300_zpsdc73de1c.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1300_zpsdc73de1c.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1303_zps79059676.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1303_zps79059676.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

Actually the Thai BMW style pipes are not that bad. You will notice that the Thai exhaust pipes at the head are slightly different. You will notice that the original pipes have a smooth bend and the Thai pipes have a slight fold. The fold makes the exhaust flanges hang up at the fold. So you need to dremmel the opening of the flange and lubricate the pipe to avoid scratching your new chrome.

I suggest using a light application of fiberglass matting at the back of the damaged metal. As soon as the fiberglass is rigid and tacky, mix 1/3 fiberglass resin and 2/3 body filler together. Add both hardeners at their appropriate measures for their volume. Mix this resin/filler mixture in a Dixie cup. Within 3 minutes, pour the mixture in the voids to bond deeply with the glass and metal. Allow to cure 24hrs. Finish the body work as normal and paint. This is my secret to repairing damaged metal. The example below shows major deep rust damage.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=73&pictureid=949

After my resin/filler technique followed by standard body finishing.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=73&pictureid=999

[Colorado66]

That is one nice looking frame Spokes... I will try your recipe.
Amazing how that came out, better than factory.
Thanks for the tip!

As I'm assembling the engine I realized I don't have a starter lead wire.
The part number is 32401-201-000 which I haven't found on ebay yet.
I see other starter wires out there for CA175 and CB77 models, would those work for a CA95?

Thanks!

[Spokes]

The CA175 battery cable will work. It's a little longer than the CA95, so curl the excess cable in the body cavity of the frame after attaching (before tightening)the starter solenoid. Once the solenoid is mounted to the frame reach in the frame and tighten the contact nut while positioning the cable out of the way.

[Colorado66]

I ended up finding some CA95 cables, used but in good condition.

This site is great... I wouldn't be able to rebuild this bike without all the help and information here. I really appreciate answers, recommendations and advice.

Here's another question I couldn't find an answer to; what is the threaded hole for in the picture below?
What am I missing?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/Hole_zps1653ed5c.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/Hole_zps1653ed5c.jpg.html)

Also, thanks to ByThelake (Kevin) for sharing his photos on how to lace a wheel which taught me how to do these.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1331_zps40c87875.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1331_zps40c87875.jpg.html)
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1334_zpsaa2df0cd.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1334_zpsaa2df0cd.jpg.html)
Now they are off to the bike shop for tire mounting.
Thank you

[ByTheLake]

For the wheel lacing, I used the video that Oakey's Garage posted on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENrRl2FyNTw

He actually uses a CA95 wheel as his example, so it was easy.

Doug, did you separate the spokes based on the angles of the bend? There are two different bends, and I wouldn't have known that without the video.

From what I can see from my photos, nothing goes in that hole, and mine doesn't appear to be threaded, but I can't completely verify. It's quite close to the clutch basket, so there's not much room for anything anyway.

http://www.forths.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/rsDSC02292.jpg

[Colorado66]

Doh!!! No, I didnt look at the spokes to see if they had a bend. Back to the shop and intercept these before they try balancing them and putting tires on.
Wish id seen that youtube vid sooner :)

[ByTheLake]

The difference in the bend between the inner and outer spokes is subtle, and for a few of them I had to look closely, but here are my spokes separated for reference.

http://www.forths.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/rsDSC02479.jpg

[VegeKev]

I believe the threaded hole is for the earlier (?) type of shift drum stopper...

Kev.:)

[kartgreen]

Looks like your making great progress wiht your bike . For some odd reason upper chain guards are easy to find and lower guards are like hen's teeth . Your lower guard can be repaied though . Cutout the rusted metal and weld in new metal .

[Colorado66]

Thought I'd post a few progress pictures :)
And of course ask a few questions:D

Engine done for now ( a few screws need replacing)
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1427_zpsd277e963.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1427_zpsd277e963.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1431_zpsa8289455.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1431_zpsa8289455.jpg.html)

Someone hit a pot hole?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1315_zps36c4c29f.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1315_zps36c4c29f.jpg.html)

Getting the bends out
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1410_zpsd94901a5.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1410_zpsd94901a5.jpg.html)

This is my first attempt at body/paint work, seems like a lot of bondo huh?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1414_zps643a8e2b.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1414_zps643a8e2b.jpg.html)



And of course the picture with the question and real reason why I got on to post. :rolleyes:
My starter switch is missing this nut and screw.
On the back side is a type of band spring that fits in a slot.

I'm missing at least the screw and nut, maybe more.
It doesn't appear the hole is threaded so I'm not sure how the nut is held in place.
Any advise greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_57_zpsb56bedc6.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_57_zpsb56bedc6.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

The small spring, screw & nut is a dampener. I may have extra's and can check my many small parts drawers if your interested. There is no harm if the screw is missing, just a little slop in the throttle handle.

I imagine that people loose this screw through vibration and/or remove it at the first signs of the throttle not retracting when let go.

[Colorado66]

Spokes, thank you for reply and offer. I'll give it a shot without the screw and see how sloppy it gets. If nothing else I suppose I could make something up now that you explained the function.
Being new here I dont want to be asking for parts but do appreiate the offer :)

[ByTheLake]

The engine looks nice, Doug. It's great to see that you're handy with body filler - the front fender should look really good when you're finished.

[Colorado66]

Thank you Kevin... I'm still not sure if I'm up to painting it myself though.
There is a lot of work restoring these bikes (as you know) and afraid I might mess it up.
On the other hand, it's just paint and could always start over. I'll weigh it out and decide after all the primer gets shot and sanded.

You guys all set the standards high with your beautiful restorations! :)

Here's a few update pics
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1450_zpsec9d60c6.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1450_zpsec9d60c6.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1451_zps73145c87.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1451_zps73145c87.jpg.html)

Are the HONDA letters supposed to be black?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1449_zps35912db5.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1449_zps35912db5.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1442_zpsa43f7bfe.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1442_zpsa43f7bfe.jpg.html)

[kartgreen]

Looks like your taking the time to do it the right way . There's a great satisfaction knowing you've resurrected at 45 year old bike that many people have never seen before .
Don't be afraid to do your own paint work , take your time let everything dry and start wet sanding and then polish and wax and you'll be amazed at the finished product . Most automotive paint suppliers can custom mix paint colors into spray cans . They even do 2 stage paint and clear .

[Steverinomeiste]

Metal Side Covers!

[Steverinomeiste]

Spokes, thank you for reply and offer. I'll give it a shot without the screw and see how sloppy it gets. If nothing else I suppose I could make something up now that you explained the function.
Being new here I dont want to be asking for parts but do appreiate the offer :)
My CA95 was built out of gifts from forum members.

[Larzfromarz]

And you are already using good products (Eastwood). The satisfaction of doing your own paint is worth the time and effort. I'd say go for it.

[Colorado66]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, I'll go for it and paint it myself.

I didn't realize you could get mixed paint in spray cans. Now I'll check into the two part paint at the local store.

Does anyone have a color match or number for the white?

Thank you!

[Larzfromarz]

You can choose any good white, even from Eastwood. I've chosen to paint my next CA95 with the Duplicolor single stage mixed in the can lacquer system. Silver base coat, self mixed cream trim color (from Y & W) and the Candy Orange with the gloss clear. That bike is "Tangerine Dream". I hope it turns out.
Once the decks are clear this spring it should go together.
The tank in the pic is just gloss Rustoleum. I thought it flowed out nicely for a spray can.:D

[Colorado66]

LFM - Thanks for that, I haven't checked into the local paint store yet but if they cant mix paint to a rattle can I'll give the Duplicolor a try. Read up on it and it and had good reviews.

I'm starting to recover the seat and could use some help please :)
The seat that came with the bike didn't have the chrome trim so I bought one off ebay that was listed as a CA95 seat with the chrome.

Comparing the two side by side there are differences and wonder if I bought the wrong seat or if the one that came with the bike might have been replaced with the wrong seat in the first place.
It appears the one that came with the bike had already been recovered.

The one on the top in the picture below came with the bike
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1456_zps45089f3c.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1456_zps45089f3c.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1458_zpsb295820d.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1458_zpsb295820d.jpg.html)

The one on the right in the picture below was with the bike. Notice the frame is bent.
It's also smaller and has three screw studs vs. the one on the larger frame for the strap.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1464_zps93a6b46c.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1464_zps93a6b46c.jpg.html)

Left side is original, right is the one recently purchased with the chrome trim seat.
Which of these seats is correct for the CA95?... thank you!
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1469_zps8c1b3b7f.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1469_zps8c1b3b7f.jpg.html)

[Spokes]

Both seat frames may be correct for your bike. I would harvest the springs and hog clips from the rusty and bent frame and toss it.

Strip out the replacement seat to just metal and check the fit on the bike. Straighten it if need be. Don't fuss about the one or three mounts on the frame. The replacement strap will need only one hole per side anyway, even IF you use the three hole mount.

I suggest buying this cover already sewn http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CA92-CA95-150-160-BENLY-DREAM-NEW-SEAT-COVER-with-strap-/360877540705?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5405fa4561&vxp=mtr

The chrome trim has little chance of being removed correctly. I hope you can as I could not...and no longer try. If you go into my albums and check out my seats, the chrome is 3M Chrome Adhesive Automotive Trim. Yep! It look the same and sticks to the new vinyl for years. Use good automotive seat foam and buy an electric carving knife to sculpture the foam before adding the cover.

About painting. DupliColor paint will melt when exposed to gas. Once again, not to show off my builds, but to use them as an example of what can be done. The bike below was painted with a $99.00 Craftsman compressor and a $15 Harbor Freight touch up gun. I used a $5.00 in line air dryer as well. The paint is Acrylic Enamel with hardener & reducer. I built paint stands and used a cheap box fan to exhaust the overspray. So for a little more money you get good results and keep the tools.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=73&pictureid=1047

[Colorado66]

After fitting both of these seats the smaller one appears to be the correct one and the other for the larger Dream. The front of the seats where they meet the gas tank are the biggest difference.
If I were to use the larger seat there would be a gap between it and the tank. Whereas the smaller seat fits snuggly to the tank.
So I ordered the CA95 seat cover and after fitting it realized they must have sent the wrong one. It's just way too big and the whole thing fits easily over the back to front of the metal seat prongs. Also the word "HONDA" on the back sits way to low as it should be centered.
I'd say it's a whole 3" too long. Am trying to return for correct size or refund. Will see. I may just end up having this seat upholstered by a shop.
I was able to get the trim piece off and salvage all the nuts/bolts but will not be able to use that on the smaller seat. I like your work around spokes and will give that 3M chrome strip a try. After taking it apart I can see how much of a pain it will be putting a new one on.
This leads me to another issue or question. I seem to be getting a few incorrect parts or parts that don't fit.
The parts catalog showed this throttle cable as the correct part number but I don't see where this chromed curved piece threads into the handle bars. Can someone confirm this is the correct throttle cable for a late CA95?
Tried looking at other pictures on here and didn't see anyone having this cable.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/T2eC16ZHJIkE9qU3k6w-BQSSGqR2u60_57_zps6e014fb7.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/T2eC16ZHJIkE9qU3k6w-BQSSGqR2u60_57_zps6e014fb7.jpg.html)

As always, I appreciate the feedback/guidance.
Thank you

[Spokes]

The throttle cable shown is for the early CA95 with an external throttle assembly. You most likely have the internal slide throttle.

[Colorado66]

We're supposed to have 70+ temps this weekend so I think it's time to paint this puppy :)
Never did this before so a little nervous.
Picked up a sprayer and the paint today. All the parts are primed and wet sanded with 500 grit.
Wish me luck and I welcome any advise before I get started.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1491_zpsd4570651.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1491_zpsd4570651.jpg.html)

While I've been waiting for temps to raise for painting I got a few other parts polished and ready

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1492_zps8e67a308.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1492_zps8e67a308.jpg.html)

I do have a question on the rear wheel assembly :rolleyes:
When I tore this bike down it didn't have the rear seal shown in this picture nor a collar. I found what I think was the right seal from the parts catalog and collar but not sure if the late model bikes got the collar or not?

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1494_zpsba6071b9.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1494_zpsba6071b9.jpg.html)

I'm not confident the parts catalog I have is that accurate or complete so would love to hear from you guys if this looks correct

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1496_zpsa5a21046.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1496_zpsa5a21046.jpg.html)

It's not flush with the seal as I'd expected so questioning if the collar might have only been used on earlier models?.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1499_zps16889506.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1499_zps16889506.jpg.html)

As always I appreciate the responses and guidance :)

[ByTheLake]

Nice polishing job! I know how much time that takes, and your results are great.

If you did it correctly, you should have polishing grit embedded in your hair.

[Spokes]

The spacer in the sprocket hub is correct. It extends out a bit and rides against the chain adjuster. Nice job!

[Larzfromarz]

+1 on the nice work.
Your paint set up is just like mine, watch your pressures and test your patterns on some big pieces of cardboard (you can use just solvent and the CB shows the pattern). Don't be afraid to practice on something else and build your technique.
You'll be happy you did this in the end...
L

[Colorado66]

Nice polishing job! I know how much time that takes, and your results are great.

If you did it correctly, you should have polishing grit embedded in your hair.

It's like grecian formula, no more grey hair!! :)

[rum-rum]

welcome doug to the forum.i live 700 miles north of you in canada.this is a great site for information and just bike talk....welcome...rob

[Colorado66]

Thanks Rob! Are you in Calgary? I love that town, especially during stampede.

Well, my first attempt at painting was so-so.
I got a few runs and some dust.
This is a single stage paint.
Should I sand it down and repaint? or maybe a razor blade to take down the drips and sand with 1500 then a clear coat?
What about fine sanding then apply a coat of wax?

I'm not expecting this to be perfect or to achieve the results of a professional painter as that takes years of practice, but would like it to be smooth and not see the drips or dust.
Glad I went with white, any other color would have shown my mistakes a lot more.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1502_zpsc0265a33.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1502_zpsc0265a33.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1508_zpsf9c56371.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1508_zpsf9c56371.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1509_zps900d4f1d.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1509_zps900d4f1d.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1511_zps59410d80.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1511_zps59410d80.jpg.html)

[VegeKev]

If it was me, and I had enough thickness on, I'd rub it back carefully with a block and 800 wet/dry....just until you get back to niceness ;)
Then 1200 before you do a clear coat. I'd really recommend a clear for toughness

The white looks great, but I hope it doesn't snow there or you'll lose it!
:D

Kev.:)

[Larzfromarz]

I'd sand your errors and then 600-800 the whole bike and try for another top coat. After that you can color sand and buff/polish...I think you'll be surprised.
probably should have posted this link before but a good place to learn basic techniques;
http://search.eastwood.com/ppc/kevin+tetz+dvd?SRCCODE=GA090050&device=c&matchtype=e&network=g&creative=29103203100&gclid=CMjBrNbmwb0CFenm7AodHFwAJg

[Colorado66]

Thanks for the advise guys. I ended up wet sanding with 800 then another couple coats of paint.
After reading up a little more on painting techniques and watching a bunch of YouTube videos it really made a difference.
Probably the biggest was getting the air pressure right then wiping down with alcohol and a tack rag just before spraying. Made a world of difference.
How long should I wait before applying the clear coat? I think I need to scuff it up with 1000 beforehand right?

[VegeKev]

There should be a minimum drying time written on your paint can somewhere, the paint I use states min 24hr before re-coat.

Yep, knock the shine off the base coat with 800-1200 then the clear.

Kev.:)

[Colorado66]

Well, I'm finished painting and while it's far from perfect it'll do. Glad I tried it and can say I did it myself. But I think in the future I may leave this to the experts.
Now it's onto assembly :)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1527_zpsc88d6fb0.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1527_zpsc88d6fb0.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1529_zps6e828627.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1529_zps6e828627.jpg.html)

[Larzfromarz]

Looks real good 66 :). White is a great color to paint for a first time and you did well.
Often painting (in the early stages of experience) white is easiest and even good painters have to repaint from time to time. So time to enjoy the sweetie!

[Colorado66]

I could use some help :)
This bikes wiring harness was all chewed up by mice when I got it so my disassembly pictures are incomplete and now have some wiring questions.
Thought it would be easier to just post pictures with the questions.
I appreciate any help and/or guidance
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1556_zpsa2c488fa.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1556_zpsa2c488fa.jpg.html)


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1555_zps17615328.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1555_zps17615328.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1552_zps74bcfeee.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1552_zps74bcfeee.jpg.html)

No question here... just a progress picture :)
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1547_zps4b156939.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1547_zps4b156939.jpg.html)

[Colorado66]

Looks real good 66 :). White is a great color to paint for a first time and you did well.
Often painting (in the early stages of experience) white is easiest and even good painters have to repaint from time to time. So time to enjoy the sweetie!

Thanks man... :) appreciate the compliment

[Larzfromarz]

Here is a picture of my stock bike but she has moved on...probably doesn show all you need wrt the frame wiring.
The solenoid; in a small way it doesn't matter which terminal of the two large ones goes to the battery or starter. Inside it is just a pair of contact points that get bridged by a copper plate when the solenoid is activated. The yellow/red and black wires matter the most and should not be reversed (duh color coded right?).
I'll need to study the headlight picture but Spokes will probably beat me too it...

[ByTheLake]

The bike is looking great, Doug. It's always fun to watch a motorcycle go back together. The white color looks very nice, too.

Regarding the wiring, my pictures might not be much help, since I bought an aftermarket harness from overseas, and the manufacturer took creative liberties with some of the colors. Also, I used a general export C95 harness, which included the turn signal wiring. If I can find a few spare minutes, I'll review your pictures and comment, unless somebody else replies earlier.

[Spokes]

The tail light wires go through the frame grommet (to the outside of the frame) and then go back inside the frame through the same grommet that the battery cable/wire harness exits.

The 3 way headlight wire is indeed connected the headlight switch wire from the handlebar control. The blue wire happens to be your high beam. When your high beam is on, the second wire illuminates the high beam indicator in the speedometer.

The starter solenoid connection is correct. Actually there is no right or wrong way to connect the battery/starter cable. I have dissected this switch in the past and found that it is an magnetic energized contact relay.

[kartgreen]

It's going to be one sweet ride once your finished ! Take it to some car/bike shows or cruise-ins and you'll be amazed at the attention the bike will get . Even the grizzled old veteran Harley riders will stop and tell you about their first bike . Most likely a Honda !

[Colorado66]

Thanks you all.. I got it wired today.
I have an older wiring diagram so some of the wires were just a little bit different color and gave me a little challenge. Nothing a multimeter couldn't figure out.
BTL, I give you a lot of credit for installing that aftermarket harness. I picked one up for a c95 and couldn't make heads or tails.
Took your advise and put in a new rectifier from Oregon Motorcycle Parts. Great service from those folks.

So my next question is what do you all do for gaskets on the mufflers? Not the packing at the head rather the joint between the muffler and the downpipes?

[Spokes]

If you have original mufflers, then pull the red gasket from the old ones and re use them. Or try your luck with these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-C92-CA92-C95-CA95-CA160-Muffler-packing-rubber-/220286430820?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item334a182e64&vxp=mtr

If you are using the aftermarket type mufflers then no gasket is available as far as I know. I have used the aftermarket pipes in the past and they don't leak too bad. Perhaps try http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1077/overview/

[rhodemon]

I've successfully used small teflon packing meant for plumbing use as a header-muffler gasket. Its readily available at your local hardware store or plumbing supply. I wrapped a few turns around the header pipe and pushed it into place with a screwdriver about 5000 mikes ago with no problems since.

[Larzfromarz]

And both styles of packing are still available (at least last year), the orange or black, through Honda.
L

[VegeKev]

I have after market mufflers and just slotted the mufflers a wee bit and used a good quality exhaust clamp.....no packing or gasket used....and no leaks ;)

[Colorado66]

Those are all good suggestions, I might have to try each one. Thank you.
another problem I have is my headlight only works on low beam, how do I replace these sealed beam bulbs?
anyone have a tried and tested trick?
thanks

[Spokes]

The easiest way to replace your headlight is http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEADLIGHT-HONDA-BENLY-C92-CA92-CB92-C95-CA95-LIGHT-LAMP-NEW-/160811533948?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25711d467c&vxp=mtr

I have this light on my daily rider and its lasted 2 years so far. The other way is to pull the lens off the current light body and de solder the bulb free. Replace the bulb with a 6 volt headlight bulb....(PM me if you go this route for the bulb) and reseal the lens.

be careful when you do the bulb replacement. Wear gloves to prevent body fluid leaks,,

[Colorado66]

Thanks for all the recommendations and advise you guys, it's been very helpful :)

Here's a couple of progress pictures.

Can't wait to see that speedo arm sweep and odometer cycle.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1574_zps126b3d21.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1574_zps126b3d21.jpg.html)

Finally off the table and on wheels!!

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1575_zpse6d577f9.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1575_zpse6d577f9.jpg.html)

Obviously there is still a lot of work to do and will have to take a video of when that engine comes to life.

[Sam Green]

Thanks for all the recommendations and advise you guys, it's been very helpful :)

Here's a couple of progress pictures.

Can't wait to see that speedo arm sweep and odometer cycle.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1574_zps126b3d21.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1574_zps126b3d21.jpg.html)

Finally off the table and on wheels!!

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1575_zpse6d577f9.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1575_zpse6d577f9.jpg.html)

Obviously there is still a lot of work to do and will have to take a video of when that engine comes to life.

Awesome looking resto.;)

[Colorado66]

Hopefully someone can give me direction here :)
When I tested out the starter with the start button, all I got was a click at the solenoid. So I took the solenoid apart and filed/sanded down the copper contacts. Tested it again on the bench and it works. Put it back in the bike and hooked everything up, push the button and it clicks once, no starter engagement and now it sticks.
So I tested just the starter on the battery and it works fine.
Now I'm wondering if the solenoid is bad or maybe I don't have a good ground.
Any other suggestions to test out the solenoid?
Thanks and as always appreciate the comments and advise :)

[Sam Green]

Sounds like a bad ground.

Sam.:)

[ByTheLake]

Hopefully someone can give me direction here :)
When I tested out the starter with the start button, all I got was a click at the solenoid. So I took the solenoid apart and filed/sanded down the copper contacts. Tested it again on the bench and it works. Put it back in the bike and hooked everything up, push the button and it clicks once, no starter engagement and now it sticks.
So I tested just the starter on the battery and it works fine.
Now I'm wondering if the solenoid is bad or maybe I don't have a good ground.
Any other suggestions to test out the solenoid?
Thanks and as always appreciate the comments and advise :)First - that little bike looks awesome, Doug. Love the white paint job.

Sounds like you're almost there. If the starter cranks from a direct connection to the battery, you can trace the circuit back one step at a time. The starter relay is just a big switch, so when you press the starter button and hear a click, you should be able to check for continuity across the contacts where the heavier cables connect. If resistance goes to near zero when the relay is engaged, the relay is doing its job. Make sure the heavy cable that runs from the starter to the relay is properly connected and not loose. Then trace the cable from the relay to the battery to confirm that connections are good.

This is a fresh paint job - is the ground cable (battery negative cable) connected to bare metal on the frame? (you've probably checked that already).

[Larzfromarz]

IS the starter known to be good? I like to test mine with a spare battery, positive to the starter terminal and negative to the bike frame or engine, give it a few rotations. Since you've checked and tested the solenoid it this is the next major component. PS be sure there is a good ground between the probably painted engine and newly painted frame too.

[Spokes]

In addition to the great advice already submitted, try a new starter cable. The CA175 cable like http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CA175K3-Cable-Starter-Motor-OEM-32402-303-000-NOS-Vintage-Touring-Electric-/251173502646?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7b1b7eb6&vxp=mtr

The CA175 cable works well, but a bit long, so you would need to curl the excess in the frame body. Or have a duplicate new cable fabricated. I contend that 45-50 year old copper cable and connections just degrade, especially our barn find bikes.

[Colorado66]

Checked resistance on the cables and the switch and they were zero or close to it, so I figured it had to be a bad ground.
Scraped some of the new paint away from where the ground cable connects to the frame, made the connections and it works like a champ!
So it was a bad ground.
Appreciate all the replies as it steered me in the right direction.
Often times I'll get focused on replacing a part before thoroughly checking some of the obvious culprits.

Today I was playing around with the throttle cable and installing the carb.

Is the throttle grip supposed to snap back into place? Or just easily rotate back?
I lubed a NOS throttle cable with graphite and the cable moves very easy. Also installed a new throttle slide and lubed it with graphite.
The handle or grip rotates ok but doesn't have a lot of force pulling the handle back to close the throttle.
Seems like safety features would require the throttle to close if you took your hand off.
Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Thank you! :)

[Spokes]

I think the steel handlebar slot/aluminum slide/steel internal twist channeled throttle design makes it hard to get a good snap throttle return, especially after 45+years.

You may want to clean the inside of the throttle tube and lightly break the edges of the new slide.

Frankly, I have never been successful at getting this type of throttle to return by itself, even using specialty lubricants. Maybe some members can shine a better light on this issue.

[ByTheLake]

I used a replacement handlebar, and the slide channel was quite rough. I used a rotary tool to smooth the inside of the channel, so the slide moves nicely. I greased the slide area inside the handlebar. The throttle returns on its own, but I wouldn't call it a 'snap' back to position.

[Colorado66]

Hi Guy's,
Thanks for all the replies, I will fine tune that throttle some more.

In the meantime, I'm having a heck of time trying to track down why the headlight wont come on.

The horn works, the brake lights work, the neutral light works.

Tested the headlight off the battery and it works.

Checked the grounds and they all seem to be fine.

I get 6.08 volts at the black wire that goes to the horn switch but nothing from the blue or the red wire.

Seems to me the black wire feeding the horn switch would carry the power for the horn and headlight (blue and red - high/low)
Otherwise how does power get fed to the headlight?

Here's a picture to help show what I'm talking about and also a picture of the switch when I was taking it apart for cleaning.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1618_zps68797369.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1618_zps68797369.jpg.html)

The black wire feeding power to the neutral light has a white stripe on it which is different that the plain black wire for the horn.
What do you guys think?
My light switch is a two (2) position switch and nothing happens in either position.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1291_zps144024fb.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1291_zps144024fb.jpg.html)

One more easy question for you guys.... is this fuel line connector just a press-in fit to the petcock? Should I JB weld it?

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1603_zps01ca60a7.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1603_zps01ca60a7.jpg.html)
Thank you for all the replies and recommendations. You guys have been so helpful! :)

[VegeKev]

Have you got the ignition switch in the third position?
Kev

[Colorado66]

Have you got the ignition switch in the third position?
Kev

Yes, I tried it there and all other positions.

[Spokes]

I will try to get a picture of the inside of my CA95 headlight bucket and wiring.

In the meantime,

Power from the harness is connected to the switch. The two position switch transfers power to high or low beam only.

The headlight has three leads. The green wire that connects to the ground ring,
One wire with a single connection and one wire with a duplex connection.

The duplex connection receives the same color from the switch and the same color from the speedo high beam bulb.

The single headlight connector receives the same color from the switch.


Thus, when the ignition switch is at the 2 click up position the light illuminates and you have high low beam.

Looking at you picture, the high beam speedo indicator has a ground arrow pointed at it. This is not a ground.

I also trust that you have cleaned up the switch.

[Colorado66]

Well that makes sense it's not a ground now that I look at the picture. It obviously has to be a power feed for that bulb. Which means the three way green connector must be the power feed to the light switch making the red and blue wires the high/low. Does that seem right?

[Spokes]

Yes. the blue wire with the duplex plug is high beam. The green wire from the speedometer high beam indicator attaches there as well as the blue(or green) wire from the switch.

I wired the headlight using original wiring, but I'm fairly sure that not all vintage Honda wiring may be the same color wire, for the same function, across all years.

[Colorado66]

Well I found the problem, bad ignition switch. Took it apart and cleaned the contacts but the bakelite backing crumbled putting it back together. Now the headlight works like a dream. Unfortunately the brake light doesn't work now. Found a replacement ignition switch on ebay so will give it a try when it gets here next week.
I was pretty happy seeing the headlight Spokes rebuilt come to life. High and low beam worked perfect :)
At least all the wiring is figured out now.

Has anyone ever put a side car on one of these little bikes? Any ideas on what could fit? And where to get one?

[Spokes]

If the next switch is bad, I can have extra Bakelite and ignition parts as well. I've rebuild switches for other forum members.

Maybe other members have seen sidecars for the CA95/160 but I have not. The drawback is mounting the sidecar. Our bikes have a stamped frame whereas nearly all other bikes have tube frames.

Although you may want to look into Vespa sidecars.

I wish I had the skills to design build a sidecar mount and frame for these small bikes. I have the best fabricators at hand.

[Colorado66]

I appreciate the offer Spokes :) really nice of you.
It wasn't a bad ignition switch at all, it was assembler error.
When I pulled the ignition apart to get the broken key out I didn't pay attention to the orientation of the contacts. When the back up ignition arrived I took pictures as it was disassembled. Took mine apart and it my mistakes were obvious.
Now, all the electrical works as it should :)


You can see here I had two of the three ignition contacts in the wrong place.
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1624_zpsadf7eb96.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1624_zpsadf7eb96.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of how they are supposed to be (using the wire clampdown as a reference point)
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1627_zpseee181e6.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1627_zpseee181e6.jpg.html)

Today was also a big day because the engine started for the first time in 40 years! (video below)
I wasn't planning to start it up rather put gas in to check for leaks.
Had a slow drip where the fuel line connects to the carb. It's one of those compression fitting pieces like I posted earlier of the petcock.
Anyhow, it was leaking so I put a hose clamp on the gas line and epoxied the fitting into the carb.
Then I decided what the heck, I'll give it a kick.
You can see from the video I'm not sure what I'm doing and nervous trying to shut it down. I suspect I didn't have throttle control because the idle is set too high and no gas coming into the carb, so on top of it it was leaning out.

Can you guys offer some advise on starter carb settings?
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/th_StartupCA95_zps3d7b051f.jpg (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/StartupCA95_zps3d7b051f.mp4)

[Spokes]

I'm sorry if I'm hoggin the answer board here, but I've had this very issue on every slide throttle CA95 & CA160 I've built.

At the handlebar:

1.) Make sure the throttle cable stop is not installed backwards in the handlebar.

2.) When re-assembling the throttle tube, tighten the throttle housing screws equally while your twisting the throttle, keeping in mind that your feeling for smooth cable wind and retract.

At the carb:

The slide has two slots. One long & one short. The carb has guide pins on both sides. The slide should rest deep into the carb barrel.

The center pin in the slide has multiple settings. Leave what ever setting you found the pin until you have a smooth throttle. If performance is good, leave it be. If the performance is sluggish (feels lean) adjust one notch up.

You only have two settings on the carb. One for idle, one for road performance.

Good Luck

[ByTheLake]

Hey Doug, the bike looks nice, and thanks for posting the video. I can attest to what Spokes added, too. I believe I've had my throttle slide in the carb backwards a few times, which will make it rev high the moment it starts. That might explain the runaway idle when it starts. Fortunately it is easily switched around, if that's the issue.

[Colorado66]

Chip, Kevin...You guys are so smart! :)
Thank you for the advise!!!

After taking the carb off and apart to check your suggestions It became apparent the idle screw was screwed too far in causing the idle to be high.

Here's a picture of how having the idle screw turned so far in made the slide open up which caused it to race like it did.

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1640_zps1cc0a1f0.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1640_zps1cc0a1f0.jpg.html)

Here's a shot after turning the screw outwards to reduce the idle

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1644_zps46013180.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN1644_zps46013180.jpg.html)

And here's an retry from that failed start up :)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/th_Startup2_zps558f7245.jpg (http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/Startup2_zps558f7245.mp4)

I'm itching to ride it now but still need to double check all the nuts and torques and lube all the fittings.
No leaks, so that's a good sign. Not sure how the shifting will perform. I also have never ridden or owned a street bike, so this is all new to me and taking my time.

[ByTheLake]

The engine sounded nice in the latest video - glad it was a simple modification. These are simple little bikes, which adds to their appeal - just one carb - no balancing multiple carbs.

It'll be interesting to read of your trial runs - I suppose the brakes are adjusted and working?

[Larzfromarz]

Awesome 66 things are looking and sounding great!

[Colorado66]

Its running and starts right off.no leaks but im getting squeeks. Seems after its ran a couple minutes something starts squeeking on the back wheel.
might just be the brakepads breaking in.? But I also get rub sound what seems to come from the chain. Any ideas you guys?
Thanks

[Sam Green]

Looking good, put the bike on the center stand and spin the wheel by hand, it might give you an indication where the noises are coming from.
If you have to, remove the chain guard and try again.

Sam.:)

[Nige1100s]

You should be able to replace the wires from the stator to the connectors in the frame without having to buy a new stator as they are only soldered onto the stator. You will need a decent 30watt ish iron some heat shrink. Seeing the work you've done so far I doubt you will find it difficult.

[Nige1100s]

You should be able to replace the wires from the stator to the connectors in the frame without having to buy a new stator as they are only soldered onto the stator. You will need a decent 30watt ish iron some heat shrink. Seeing the work you've done so far I doubt you will find it difficult.

[ByTheLake]

Doug, have you taken her for a test ride yet?

[Colorado66]

Doug, have you taken her for a test ride yet?

Kevin,
Yes :)
I apologize for not following up sooner, but have been little busy with work.

The squeaks/rubbing I mentioned earlier were nothing more than the new brakes wearing in.
I installed the petcock lever upside down (missing the rubber/plastic tab) so was running out of gas when I had it in the open position. Once I figured that out I ran it on the reserve position and does just fine. It's one last thing I need to fix. Just not ready to take it apart and fiddle with it yet.
Other than that, it runs great. I've had a lot of neighbors comment and ask questions wanting to know where they can get one of these bikes.
I'll try to take and post pictures this week.

[Colorado66]

Well, the bike is done.
Took 6 months, so a little sooner than expected.
This was a fun project and I learned a lot thanks to the folks on this site.
I really appreciate all the input, ideas, suggestions and knowledge that was provided.
Now I need to take a riding class and get the bike and myself licensed. :)

Doug

Here's a couple of before pictures that I took. Had no idea at the time which way the tank was supposed go on and was embarrassed to keep in my album after BTL politely taught me the correct way. :) (Thanks Kevin)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0908_zps0733b2d5.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0908_zps0733b2d5.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0910_zpsa896e272.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/DSCN0910_zpsa896e272.jpg.html)

And now the after:

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0169_zps3563eb09.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0169_zps3563eb09.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0161_zps331e820b.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0161_zps331e820b.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0160_zps8bd44b70.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0160_zps8bd44b70.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0157_zps9f8d2349.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0157_zps9f8d2349.jpg.html)

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0168_zpsaff78ed5.jpg (http://s262.photobucket.com/user/colorado68/media/Colorado66%20Honda%20Benly/_DSC0168_zpsaff78ed5.jpg.html)

[ByTheLake]

Absolutely stunning motorbike, Doug - very nicely done. Nice pictures, too.

[Spokes]

I concur with BTL! I love to see another little Honda brought back to life!