FourWheelForum  

Go Back   FourWheelForum > Motorcycles & Streetbikes! > The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration

The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

Reply
Thread Tools
  #1  
Unread 11-01-2013, 03:10 PM
tjejenskille tjejenskille is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
Default Starting concerns

Hey everyone, so I'm getting mixed messages in how to adjust the ignition timing. Manual says line up F with red line J. On the forum I've found posts saying they lined up with T to the J.

In reality there is the T, then a line, a space, a line, and then F, so where to start adjusting the ignition timing?

I'm having some issues lately trying to get my '63 CA95 to start. Fuel is on and gas in tank and flowing, freshly charged battery, put new condensor and points on, has the Oregon silicon rectifier, I don't get it. Sometimes it gets in this fussy mood and won't start for a few hours till it is happy again. Temperature outside is in the 40's. Carb insulator gasket - check, carb gasket - also check.

Riddle me this one, but this has been a common problem, and now that I've fixed all the leaks, it's really making zero sense despite my searches on the forum for clues.

I usually try kickstarting from a cold start, I find if I lay on the starter button soon I can hear the engine trying to turn over get slower and slower as the battery is drained more and more.

Air screw on carb is right now at 1 full turn, idle screw is about in the middle screwed out. Before replacing the condensor, I usually had to screw the idle screw in a whole bunch to get it to start.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Unread 11-01-2013, 03:11 PM
tjejenskille tjejenskille is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
Default

Oh I also am using a light-up pen continuity tester to do the timing, and I have no clue if I set the timing on the points when the pen lights up or when the pen lights off?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Unread 11-01-2013, 03:12 PM
tjejenskille tjejenskille is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
Default

Sorry more ramblings, but for those wondering, it was running pretty good all summer, except when it got colder it would behave this way. And I've also had the valve timing done at a professional shop.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Unread 11-02-2013, 09:10 AM
Sam Green Sam Green is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 701
Default

Use the line nearest the F (F fire...T tappet)

If you put a bulb across the points to earth, turn the motor anti clockwise and the bulb should come on as the lines line up, this is as the points start to open.

Sam.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Unread 11-02-2013, 09:26 AM
tjejenskille tjejenskille is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
Default

Thanks Sam, as I did more foraging among the forum posts I started getting the impression to line up with the F line.

One post I saw said I needed to have the ignition switch turned on to do the test, and alas, it overloaded my light up pen and blew out the bulb. So I've been trying to use my digital multimeter continuity beeper sound, which kinda works besides throwing sparks all over the points when I press the tip to it. Sigh...may have to buy another 5 dollar light up pen.

Got a good blue spark at the spark plugs this morning, gas is flowing freely when I took off the carb float bowl. Compression should be good, after all, new pistons and rings plus I had this bike running all summer. Only thing is recently I took off the magneto and stator to fix a leak at the sealing plug. When I put things back together last weekend, initially it didn't start until I switched around that one thumb-length piece with the lobes that fits over the center of the magneto. It ran then, maybe I'll try switching the lobe 180 degrees and see what I get.

Green wire to points is good and secure with no tears in the wire itself, I mean c'mon I had this thing running all summer and recently as well before digging in to fix those leaks.

I did check my battery this morning without it being turned on, 5.91 volts, I keep an extra battery at all times so I put the new battery it fresh at 6.6 volts. After trying to start the bike for a bit it is down to like 6.2 volts. Fuse is good too btw.

I did put a new o-ring in the carb where it mates with the carb insulator, and double checked those nuts and it is tight, in fact I kinda accidentally stripped a little bit of the nuts it is so tight.

I know it is gonna be something little and silly...engine bolts are all tightened down, didn't really mess with those anyways. Throttle cable is not caught up on anything. I move between having the air screw at .5 turns to 1.5 turns.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Unread 11-02-2013, 09:49 AM
tjejenskille tjejenskille is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 33
Default

Ok short update, I got it running again. Makes no sense to me. I rotated that thumb-size lobed piece on top of the magneto 180 degrees, of course no starting and tried backfiring on me.

Rotated back again 180 degrees, rotated flywheel to F line and used my digital multimeter continuity tester to set the points plate to where it did not beep anymore.

Put the choke shutter on halfway with idle screw on high RPM, and started right up first kick. None of this makes sense to me anymore.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.