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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#16
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Kindasorta. I sanded the black down, saw some primer showing through on high spots, added another coat of black, then a couple of heavy coats of clear. I'll hit that with a reasonably aggressive polish and call her done. It really doesn't warrant that 'fall into', over restored, deep paint...and I probably couldn't do it if my life depended on it.
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#17
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Well it looks good! Im buying my paint tommorow. Plan to use single stage gloss black. Also my first paint job that didnt come out of a rattle can
Thank you for the info. |
#18
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Just a few pointers about painting.
Reducer: Medium speed: 75F-95F Fast Reducer: 75F of colder. There are 2 important controls on the spray gun. Fan Width and Flow The line pressure has a huge effect on the two air gun controls Use a in-line air dryer if no dry air is available. Always use a paint filter when pouring paint into the gun. "Two" part paint really means using a hardener. Hardeners always gives the best gloss and fast curing. I don't spray over 35lbs air pressure. Wear disposable gloves Always use a face mask when spraying. Use a tack rag on your item just before spraying Always use a test panel to make sure the pattern is correct before shooting the bike. |
#19
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And in the south humidity can be an issue as well, lower is better.
Like Spokes I've been shooting the Eastwood engine paints and you need to be careful to vigorously mix your paint if it has a high solid content for consistent results. I shoot at about 40-45 psi (HVLP) but lower pressure is great to cut down on the overspray. Oh and resist touching it to see if it is dry yet... ask me how I know. L |
#20
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Did you have any joy getting on the Hondatwins forum from the link I posted?
I also noticed on your thread on there that you thought your bike was a 64 model. From what I can see, the tank and exhaust/silencers are from the later model and the frame and motor are from the early one. I wonder if you got a bike on the change over and got a bit of both. Check your engine and frame number in the dating thread, it might turn up something. http://www.fourwheelforum.com/showthread.php?t=1542 Sam. Last edited by Sam Green; 08-20-2013 at 11:57 PM. |
#21
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Yeah, thanks Sam!
Spokes pretty much nailed the major points I'd heard on laying paint. I used Duplicolor's Paint Shop brand of paint, it's supposed to be pretty idiot proof from a humidity, catalyst, and application window standpoint. They recommend filtering the paint into the gun and offer a nifty kit with three filters and three tongue depressors for only $9.99! If you go the local paint store, the filters are $0.20 a piece and they give you the wood stirrers for free. |
#22
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The motor's number is CA95E-3111984, so late 1963, and I...uh...can't find the frame number. Where is it?
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#23
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Look at the pictures you posted on page one.
Picture #6 titled, Mocking up the colour (color) Imagine the wheel is a clock. Look just above 9 oclock where the frame overlaps the tyre (tire) You'll find it there. More often than not, it can be very hard to see as the stamping is not very deep. Sam. |
#24
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3111951...so VERY end of the 1963 production run. (ended at 3112600), which sounds consistent with a 1964 title.
Before the speedo seized, it recorded about 9000 miles on it...there are some interesting stories it hasn't given up yet, the pistons are +1.00mm, and it was missing some components in the transmission shifter mechanism I had to source myself. |
#25
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Who'da thunk that, by far, the most efficient way to store a restoration project is assembled? A Lump of motor, a frame, and four tubs of parts is now something that LOOKS like a motorcycle, and some miscellaneous parts I haven't assembled yet.
Untitled by Matey-O, on Flickr It's in no way close to running. Still need to do electrical and fuel systems and buy a chain. But it's a roller, and the throttle actuation is smooth and correct, and the list is getting shorter. Untitled by Matey-O, on Flickr Untitled by Matey-O, on Flickr |