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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#1
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CA95, 6 volt to 12 volt Tutorial
Done.
Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 11-09-2012 at 09:55 PM. |
#2
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is that really all there is to it. I have wanted to install HID headlight on my benly
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#3
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What battery did you use?(model code if available) Are you comfortable using the original horn and starter solenoid? I am considering the 12V conversion, but I haven't found a similar sized battery. Do you have the part/model # for the headlight and the indicator lights (neutral, high beam, and speedo illumination). The suggestion for conversion to HID is a good one, I have converted my CBX and ST1300 to HID with great success. More light and less electrical draw. Not sure it is necessary for the CA95, since it will probably not be a night owl, but could provide more visibility during the daylight hours.
Thanks for any info you might have. |
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Done.
Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 11-09-2012 at 09:55 PM. |
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Quote:
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#6
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what about the charging system. the 6v output will never keep the 12v battery charged. you would have to put it on a charger every night.
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#7
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I believe that is what the new bridge rectifier is for. Taking the 10kv and changing it to 12V instead of 6V.
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#8
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Quote:
Since engine is providing the same wattage @ 12V, doubling the voltage means current will be 1/2 the amount on 6V. (Because Power = Volts X Current). This is nice for a number of reasons, including lowering heat loss due to high current. The newer rectifiers have a number of advantages, including lower heat, lower electrical noise, and higher voltage/current ratings. I would recommend, if possible, including a 12V regulator in the circuit. It's not too likely to overcharge, but it's nice to reduce the odds of over driving the battery. |
#9
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Not exactly... a [silicon] bridge rectifier doesn't actually regulate the voltage down. It is more efficient, however, than the old selenium varieties. This leaves you with more power for driving the rest of the electrical system, instead of converting it into heat (That's why selenium rectifiers have those big heat fins).
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#10
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Done.
Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 11-09-2012 at 09:56 PM. |
#11
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Great to hear that it isn't a problem on these bikes. Thanks for sharing your experience.
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#12
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Done.
Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 11-09-2012 at 09:56 PM. |
#13
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Done.
Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 11-09-2012 at 09:56 PM. |
#14
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I have been following this post with some intrest. Not that I am interested in converting from 6 to 12 volts, but just to see what happens.
I have cooked a coil by leaving the key in the on position and by random bad luck, the points were closed. I read earlier that you walked away leaving the key "on" and returning to that "smell" and seeing wax. I guess the lag time leaving the ignition "on" with 12 volts is shorter than with 6. Thanks for the post. I am now convinced to leave my system alone and just cruise the bike in dry daylight trips. |
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I have also followed this post and thanks to Jet I also converted over to 12 volt and never looked back..thanks for the info, it's appreciated!
Oh and I forgot to mention the 12 volt battery I'm using is a Yuasa #12N5.5-3B it was one he had off the shelf, (it has the polarity reversed from the original battery so it's installed with the terminals closer to the frame, so put a thick rubber pad against the frame to protect everything and it also keeps the battery from moving around a well!) When I purchased the battery from my local Victory dealer he was convinced that the conversion wouldn't work! (He was convinced I was going to blow/fry every electrical component on the bike, lol) Last edited by Puzzleparadise; 05-26-2012 at 04:36 AM. |
Tags |
12v, 12v conversion, 6v to 12v, rectifier |
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