Electrical Problems

[edcphoto]

Still battling getting my CA95 running. Had it running for a couple days and now no spark. I checked the coil lead wires (black and green ones) and get a reading of 1.5 ohms. Is this OK and can I eliminate the coil as the problem? Is this the proper way to check it. A month or so ago I had left the key in the ignition and on (actually not absolutely sure I had it in the on position) but the engine started fine so not sure if that may have a caused this problem.

FYI, I have power to the headlight. I have recharged the battery so that should not be a problem.

Is there a good thread on the forum for checking the electrical system to trouble shoot a no spark situation? If not can someone run thru the best procedure for checking it?

Thanks,

Ed Caldwell

[Spokes]

Take a quick look for a couple of problems.

1.) Make sure the fuse holder and contacts are in good condition.
2.) At the points, check the power to the green lead that goes to the points. With the ignition"on" the green wire should have power. If not, make sure the green wire is not grounded out.
3. Check the points, have they fallen out of setting? Or worked themselves closed.
4. Make sure the points are clean and oil free. A little oil on the points will kill the contact.
5. You have an outside chance the condensor is faulty.
6. Make sure the push in wire harness connections are good.

The above is my "been there done that" suggestions.

The coil will cook with the ignition left "on" IF the points just happen to be closed. If by random chance your points were "open" while leaving the ignition "on" then no harm was done.

1.5 OHMS for the coil is OK (IMO) Being that the coil is 45 years old, one can never rule out the coil. BTW, have you seen any waxy drips around the coil? Waxy drips indicate that the coil is cooked.

[edcphoto]

I'll run thru these today and hope I can find the problem. Thanks for the advice.

Ed Caldwell

[edcphoto]

FYI, If I have not already said so I am a newbie to engine work. Did basic stuff years ago on my VW Bettle so if my questions seem basic it's because I'm not experienced in working on engines.

I switched out the points and condenser with a set I had from a parts bike and now I have a good spark to the plugs, much better than before. Even got it running but I think I need to work on the timing now. One thing I noticed is some sparking at the points themselves. This does not seem right, what would be the cause?

Now I need to set the points and timing. According to the manual "I set the points at the peak of the cam to a .012 to .016 gap." The peak of the cam is not an obvious point so how does one determine the peak?

As for adjusting timing the manual says "rotate crank shaft until the red mark F on the rotor aligns with the mark on the generator stator. Lossen 2 screws, rotate the plate assembly to a point where the points just close, tighten screws". I can clearly see the "F" mark and the other mark to line it all up. That's all there is to it?

I also see a "T" to the right of the "F". What is the "T" for. I also see a "5" and a "0" rotor. Are those used in setting timing?

The manual also says to use a tester light to determine the exact instant the points close. I remember using a simple bulb in a socket to set the timing on my VW. Can I make one of these with a 6 volt bulb in a socket? And where do I connect them? One to ground and the other somewhere on the points I would assume.

Thanks for anyones help in this.

[Larzfromarz]

Hey ED anything you can do to VW you can do here-
Arcing at the points is normal with the points cover off- it is what causes the points to wear out (but your weak coil may have something to do with that as well). Coil resistance should be closer to 5 ohms. It's probably close to failure.
Determining the peak is what the static timing light is for.
Timing is as you described using the "F" or fire mark. Should be that it makes the spark happen just a bit before TDC or the "T" mark on the flywheel. The unlabeled hash mark is to see the dynamic (running) timing.
You can set up the test light as you had with the VW (see diagram).
Hope this helps a little.

[edcphoto]

Thanks Larzfromarz,

I switched out my old points and condenser for ones from the parts bike so now I have a much better spark to the plug so think that clears the coil as being weak or on it's way out, thankfully.

I did see the 2 unlabelled hash marks. So those are to indicate the advance at higher RPM's?

Got a few more issues to work thru. Leaking carb after engine turned off, need to adjust valves, Tail light issue, replace brake pads and clean up drums, and replace rear black rim with a chrome rim from the parts bike and she'll ready to be used. Then a lot of other little things to take care of.

The really big one at some point is the cylinder head has a stripped exhaust manifold stud that was JB welded in. Had a knowledgable mechaninc look at it and he felt the hole was probably too big to retap or helicoil. I have a spare engine so at some point I guess that means a top end rebuild.

Much more work than I bargained for but I guess that is par for the course. I’ll be posting many more questions I’m sure.

[Larzfromarz]

It's the joy of becoming intimate with your bike!

[Spokes]

You may want to consider putting a larger helicoil in the head, which means putting a larger stud or simply a correct length bolt. With the stripped out hole your no longer restricted to metric sizes. If you go larger than the exhaust flange holes then drill out the flange. I did this with my "build from scratch" and it works. Unless your going for the perfect restoration, this little mod is hardly noticable

[Larzfromarz]

Spokes is correct- vintage parts are worth saving probably move to 5/16ths or equiv and be good.

[comp_wiz101]

You might want to have a look at the "Big Cert" http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html
Inserts. They are a solid insert (instead of helicoil wire), and they make that size extra-large to replace threading where someone has already drilled it oversized.

If the helicoil on mine fails again, it's what I'm thinking of doing.