Hello from San Diego - Page 2

Spokes · #16 01-26-2010, 01:29 PM

Yes. I do. I restore the Buco Twinmaster Saddlebags and custom fab the complete hanger assemble out of stainless steel and polish the face to a mirror shine. I also build custom light sets.

Below is a shot of a standard set of Twinmasters my CA95. These bags were wasted when I got them. The muffler hangers were fabed to hang with the straight pipes

Here is a set of bags after the repaint (in white) but before assembly

Here is a sequence of a fabed part from "fabed" to polished

This is a sample of a black finished bag with my custom visored replacement lights

I have a few spare parts at this time, but no complete sets. I do special orders on all buco stuff. You can contact me by private email on this site or I can answer any questions you have about the hanging of the bags, new original lenses, keys or near identical latches.

Griff · #17 01-26-2010, 04:00 PM

OK, pulled the motor today (what an easy 1 hr. job).

I ran into one issue, how the heck do you pull off the 14mm counter clockwise bolt on the crank at the stator? I tried an impact tool, but the motor spins too easy, I put it in gear to try and add some friction to it but it didn't work. I don't want to damage anything in there!

Spokes · #18 01-26-2010, 06:30 PM

Remove the dynamo stator that surrounds the flywheel. Take an oil filter wrench that fits snuggly around the flywheel (like gripping an oil filter)

Have someone hold the filter wrench as you impact the bolt loose. My small 12 volt impact wrench did the trick.

Sam Green · #19 01-26-2010, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Griff

OK, pulled the motor today (what an easy 1 hr. job).

I ran into one issue, how the heck do you pull off the 14mm counter clockwise bolt on the crank at the stator? I tried an impact tool, but the motor spins too easy, I put it in gear to try and add some friction to it but it didn't work. I don't want to damage anything in there!

Griff, that was a job best done before removing the motor, bike in gear and hold on the rear brake, Spokes idea should work though.
Your next problem will be removing the flywheel/rotor. Take out the rear wheel axle and screw it into the rotor and impact, should fly off.
Once you get the cylinder block off, it should measure 49mm to 49.01mm if in good condition, if it's anywhere near 49.1mm it needs a first size overbore, (.25mm).
If there is damage in there and you need to bore, Kevin (Hahnda) has a set of pistons.
If the pistons are damaged and the bores are OK, I might have a set of standard pistons you can have.

Sam.

Griff · #20 01-27-2010, 08:47 AM

Got the crank bolt off (oil wrench trick works great).

And yup...I'm on to that rotor now (will do it after work today).

I hope to have the head off tonight to see where we're at here.

I REALLY appreciate all the help here guys, what a great forum! I'll definitely try to contribute with my experiences and photos of this process to help the knowledge base here.

Griff

Griff · #21 01-28-2010, 06:19 PM

UPDATE:

Got the motor torn down today. Found a few things of interest.

1. Those are the cutest little pistons I've ever seen!
2. Found that the pistons were a scuffed up (one worse then the other) The tops were real packed with carbon too.
3. Rings were OK (not too worn actually).
4. Cylinders were a little marred, but not bad at all. Could be oval'd though
5. The valves are SUPER full of thick, black carbon deposits. This is where the oil was coming from or sure, it's a wonder that this thing even combusted at all.

I'm dropped off the head and cylinders to be service at Kon Tiki Motorcycles (these guys are kick ass with old bikes. Check them out, they have a full machine shop there too, everything is done in house.) http://www.kontikimotorcycles.com/

They're gonna go the .25 overbore, I'll buy the pistons and rings new (anyone got any before I go to Ebay?). They're also gonna do a full inspection and ultrasonic cleaning of the head before lightly lapping the valves. If I need new valves they'll let me know (but they don't think I will).

So that's about it for now, the crank, rods, bearings, bottom end looks real clean, the rods play is in spec.

The only thing I have to do now is see how I can make the clutch pull smooth again. It may just be that I needed a new line, but it was too tight before tear down.

I already dissembled and cleaned the clutch plates, I think it's in the shaft or something (or these are just tight to pull? Who know I never pulled a new one to reference too, but it's WAY tighter then my Yamaha YA6). Any suggestions on that front?

Here are the pics...

Griff · #22 01-28-2010, 06:19 PM

and....

hahnda · #23 01-28-2010, 07:30 PM

I have a few +.50 and +1.00 sets but only one +.25 set that I would really like to hold on to just in case.

If you want to go +.50 over I have a set for $50 shipped. Otherwise eBay is probably your best bet.

New pistons, rings and lapped valves should have your engine running almost like new.

Do you have a manual? If not download here.
http://www.sendspace.com/file/fg6qda

Spokes · #24 01-28-2010, 08:05 PM

[quote=Griff;3453]UPDATE:

I already dissembled and cleaned the clutch plates, I think it's in the shaft or something (or these are just tight to pull? Who know I never pulled a new one to reference too, but it's WAY tighter then my Yamaha YA6). Any suggestions on that front?

One of the reasons for a hard to pull clutch lever is as indicated below:

When you pull in the clutch lever your actuating a threaded cam. The grease in this cam assemble has gone stiff with age. Remove the assembly and dig out the old dry grease and clean the thread and bore. a good mineral spirit soak for a day works, brake cleaner, carb cleaner and the like works faster.
An additional cause is of course a dry cable. Disconnect the clutch cable at the handle. Make an aluminum foil funnel around the end of the cable and tape it tight. add some gun oil, 3 in 1 oil or any light oil to the funnel and allow to drain through the casing (keep a rag at the other end).

And finally, clean the clutch push rod that fits inside the actuator pictured. It is exposed to chain oil dirt throw and gets a hard old oil build up. Always replace the engine seals especially the clutch push rod seal # 91206-200-000and the shift shaft seal # 91204-200-000.

Before putting the clutch back together clean the metal clutch plates. MAKE SURE you have them replaced in the basket correctly. I thing the heaviest guage one fits first in the basket.

Clean the clutch metal plates and sand them with 180 grit metal wet sand paper. One way to get the burnt on oil residue off of the plates is to get a container large enough to fit the plates, buy some Meguiars Chrome Wheel Cleaner. Boil enough water to cover the plates and add a pint of chrome cleaner and let sit 10 or so minutes. The plates will be as clean as new. Then with an electric sander or by hand, sand each side of the clean plate and with 180 grit paper and reinstall. You can soak the clutch discs as well to remove deep oil deposits . No need to sand the clutch discs

Griff · #25 01-29-2010, 08:03 AM

Thanks guys. I'll do a full service and clean up on the clutch parts tonight and hopefully get it working smoothly again. Good tips.

I'm waiting for a call from Kon Tiki this AM after they do a full measurment on all the parts.They're going to let me know if I need to do the first or second over before buying anything. I might want to pick up the .50 anyway just to have them. There's also a possibility they may just do a hone and I'll pick up the standard pistons and bore.

Its good to have a shop that has no interest in just selling you stuff, they really specialize in the machine aspect of motors/parts, and encourage you to get the parts on Ebay yourself for less money.

Should be in "buying mode" by days end when I have all the info.