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| The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#16
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Well maybe reconsider welding....
If the metal is pin hole rusted, there may not be enough metal to mend. These tanks are made of thin metal to start with. The reason the petcock is welded is that there is a reinforced plate on the inside of the tank to mount the original petcock to. I have actually cut an old junk tank apart just to see the inside. The mounts have a reinforced base as well but directly behind the mount itself. You might want to consider some gas tank epoxy mend. A replacement tank is in your future anyway should you keep the bike..... It will be interesting to hear the outcome of the weld attempt should you go that route. 
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#17
08-14-2011, 02:12 PM
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I would still consider that tank very useful. After cleaning I would clean any areas that may have pinholes down to bare metal, find the largest soldering iron you have and solder the holes closed. Once all known pinholes are sealed make sure the inside is as clean as possible and perfectly dry and then use the epoxy sealer from Caswell - http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm - I will swear by this. Some swear by the POR products but I have never attempted to use theirs due to the success I have found with this product. Whatever you do, if you are going the way of a tank sealer, stay away from the Kreem products. I've read nothing but nightmares some short term and most long term. I've done three tanks so far with the Caswell product and the inside becomes a perfect glass like surface sealed perfectly.
If you decide to trash your existing tank let me pay you for shipping and I will save it the trash fate. I had a post on this a while back if you come across it on the forum. Greg
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#18
08-16-2011, 07:26 AM
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My co-worker still has my tank. He said he ran into a couple snags, but he's not a quitter.
Anyhow, I'll have to update with a picture once I have the tank back. Thanks for the info on the coating. I will look into that as well.
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#19
08-16-2011, 03:48 PM
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A couple of ideas , (1) Use brazing rod and a gas torch to fill in the pinhole areas , find an old time welder if you don't have the equipment , (2) take the tank to a radiator shop and have them solder the leaks ,(3) if the first 2 don't cure the leaks ,cutout the bad sheet metal and weld in new metal . In all 3 cases you'll have to fill the tank to check for leaks once your repairs are made .
I would also use a sealer product to coat the interior of the tank . Whatever product you use follow the instructions . In my opinion Kreem has gotten a bad rep because the user took a short cut during the process . Check out Walnecks bike mag , there are several companies that may be able to make the required repairs and coat the tank . I've repaired 2 ca95 tanks at home using methods 1 & 3 . Just remember that buying a used tank is like buying a pig in a poke . What you currently have may be better then spending money on a used tank that becomes yours once the sale is completed .
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#21
11-11-2011, 04:21 AM
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While muriatic acid attacks the steel and removes rust rapidly, it leaves no protective coating on the clean steel it creates. Therefore the quick rusting. Phosphoric acid, on the other hand, works more slowly, doesn't attack the steel, but eats the rust selectively and leaves a protective coating of iron phosphate that is rust resistant. It still must be coated later to create a lasting surface, but the process is much more controlable.
Make sure to remove the aluminum petcock before using acid in the tank. Don't ask me how I know about that!
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