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#48
07-10-2010, 05:33 PM
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Thanks Chris I am humbled.
Below is the Sixty Eight up on her wheels. The tires are 3.50 x 16. I got them for under $7.00 ea off of eBay. Close outs. Time Stamp 7-10-10 (picture here) (picture here) Last edited by Smithers; 11-09-2010 at 09:17 PM. 
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#50
07-11-2010, 02:50 PM
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Time Stamp 7-11-10
Finished the L.E.D. turn signals. Here is a preview of the bike with the tank and seat. Note the one shock missing. You only need one to keep the bike up while building. (picture here) (picture here) Last edited by Smithers; 11-09-2010 at 09:17 PM.
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#51
07-12-2010, 07:20 PM
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After looking at the bike with the solo seat, I have decided against using it. I may have to build a seat or use the original.
Time stamp 7-12-10 I pulled the side covers off the engine today. I will replace the seals then clean the engine up and install it. I am not sure at this point how much of the engine will be polished.
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#53
07-14-2010, 09:02 PM
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Time Stamp 7-14-10
Wiring complete. L.E.D. signals installed and operational. L.E.D tail light installed as well, looks very cool. Headlight(new replaceable bulb type), speedo and cable in. (picture here) The engine is being cleaned for paint. The side covers pulled off. The right side cover has been repaired. All through this project there has been evidence of a spill. The inside of the engine is very clean as the bike only has 6800 miles on it. I will have new gaskets made from thicker material than original. This will eliminate leaks the best. The seals will be replaced as well. Most likely I will paint the whole engine a nice silver with a clear coat. But maybe, just maybe, If I get creative, I might paint the engine side covers the same color as the bike. The paint is two part and is fuel and oil resistant. The engine sides don't get real hot. Last edited by Smithers; 11-09-2010 at 09:17 PM. Reason: add pic
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#54
07-18-2010, 08:55 PM
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7-18-10
The front brake cable and cable have been installed. All of the hardware was polished before installation. The engine case and sides have been painted high heat aluminum with a hight temp. clear coat. The cylinders will be painted with 1500 degree header paint. When the paint is fully cured the engine will be reassembled and mounted.
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#55
07-19-2010, 06:34 PM
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7-19-10
Here are two pics for today. The front hub polished and the engine and starter painted. Several parts will be polished. The starter aluminum housing was polished to set off the paint. (picture here) (picture here) Last edited by Smithers; 11-09-2010 at 09:17 PM.
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#57
07-20-2010, 04:13 PM
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write up on the lighting please! I've read your write up on the signals, but would love to see what you did for the LED tail lights and the replaceable bulb headlight. These bikes can use as much help as possible when it comes to current draw.
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#58
07-20-2010, 05:57 PM
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The tail light on both the Honda CA95 & CA160 (and maybe others) uses a standard 1157 dual contact, staggered pin base bulb. I sourced a 6V 1157 L.E.D Red bulb and simply inserted it into the original socket.
The replaceable headlight was purchased off of eBay. The Canadian lights at the time were replaceable bulb type. In the USA during the 1960's and up to the 1980's, sealed beams were law. That law has since changed. The light purchased from eBay had to be modified. The blue wire needed a dual connection to connect to both the high beam switch and to the high beam indicator on the speedo. The rim had to be widened a bit using a dremmel on the inside to allow it to fit to the headlight bucket. If I was to do it again, I would transfer the bulb body to an original headlight trim to avoid the fitting step.
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#59
07-23-2010, 11:32 AM
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Spokes, just stumbled upon this forum while looking for LED light sources for my restoration...great job on the CA160! I have a 1966 CA77 that I'm doing the same thing with. I have picked up an unbelievable number of NOS parts for it. For turn signals, I've got a pair of the original cast aluminum Honda "clamp-on the handlebar" style which was supposedly standard equipment on the Asian CA77 models, and I have a pair of Buco Twinmasters which I plan to convert in the rear. Apparently they made the Twinmasters with or without light fixtures, as mine are just 4 hollow lens housings. No biggie to convert though... I still haven't picked up the right-hand switch module for the signals. Getting your hands on the orginal Honda part can be pretty pricey from what I've seen on Ebay. I've seen them go for anywhere between $99 & $199. Still waiting for that killer deal to come along...
When you restored the Buco bags for your friend, were you able to source replacement locks, or did you just rechrome what you had? I saw someone selling a pair of bags on ebay & they were including a pair of replacement latches w/ locks in a plastic bag. Made me think there's a source for them out there somewhere. I'd also like to find a source for that type of rivet. I know I'll never get the orginal Buco rivet, but something the same size would be good. I can't wait to get to the point of putting it all back together. Right now I'm down to bare metal on all body parts, but still have to find a couple of decent body side covers & repair or replace my front fender. I'll post some pics. Mine was a rust-bucket, but it shouldn't be too much longer until paint happens. Don
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#60
07-23-2010, 02:27 PM
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Cool. I did a signal kit for the CA77 for a guy in Florida. I fabed a front bullet light kit and use an external switch. The back used a bracket that I mounted on the tail light/license plate bracket with bullet lights on each side.
Buco Twinmasters had two types of lens bodies. Early models had cone bodies where late models had the shallow flat type. The cone shaped bodies will convert to L.E.D. easily, but the flat type is harder to do because of the size of standard L.E.D. bulb. I build my own L.E.D. lights to fit the shallow body. I have also converted the Buco light bodies to double contact type to have both running and turn signals in the bags. As far as the latch, I have the originals rechromed. You can find new/near perfect latches at www.vintagevibe.com Look for Rhodes Piano Case Latches. They don't have locks and need some minor mounting base mods, but they are real close and under $10.00 ea. I have not found a source of Buco Rivits. I use a 3mm stainless hex button head screw and nuts and washers to replace the rivits. Usually I use 1/4 or 1/2" length in place of the rivits. A great source for Buco stuff is by a seller on eBay called photolobo Tell them Chip sent ya.
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