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| The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#1
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coil
bike wasn't starting (after putting 4000 miles on it this year and having a riot). Like an idiot, messed with the carb without really knowing what I was doing. Turns out the throttle wire was caught up and I was flooding it, but then realized that I should have started with the plugs. Plugs were fried. Changed plugs, still no luck. Spark, but it seemed weak to me.
Went to points. they were pretty rough, so I have some new ones on way today or tomorrow. figured I should check coil while I was at it. It doesn't have any wax drippings on it. I am new with a multimeter, but tested it from black wire going in to green wire coming out (think this is right). Reading is right around 1 ohm. From reading the forums, this probably means it is bad, right? Is it correct that this reading should be between 2 and 3 ohms? Any help would be appreciated. Its been weeks since I've ridden and it's driving me crazy. 
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#2
10-20-2011, 03:52 PM
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The ohm reading should be in the 1.5 - 2.5 range as a rule of thumb...but don't change coils at this point. Change the points as planned. Make sure that the green wire that connects to the points has not grounded itself to the engine case. Squirt some starting fluid into the cylinders and reinstall the plugs. She should "pop" or start.
A healthy spark in these old bikes appears weak.
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#4
10-28-2011, 05:02 PM
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New points correctly gapped. Spark looks stronger. Sprayed starter fluid into cylinders. Nothing immediately but a backfire when it was winding down. Checking tappets this weekend and searching for the timing threads. Someone said a backfire is a sure sign of bad timing.
Points are supposed to be opening at the "F" mark? When spinning clockwise, they close at F. Plate couldn't be installed backwards as it was running in current position last time? At least I'm doing stuff that needs to get done while trying to figure this out. Just not riding.
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#5
10-28-2011, 07:43 PM
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Ok..If i get this right, the bike was running and the fuel mixture got goofed up and fouled out the plugs. Now you have put in new plugs and new points and got a "pop" after spraying some starter fluid.
The timing can be adjusted at the points plate. If no adjustment to the tappets was made prior to the bike not running, then chances are that the valve lash is OK. Being that you got the "pop" means you have spark. You still could have a fuel issue. Pull the plugs to see if they are wet. If not, then it may be fuel. By a long shot..did you pull off the lobe from the spark advance? The lobe on the spark advance can be installed 180 degrees off...and look & fit OK. Such a simple error upon installation could be a major cause for starting grief.
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#6
10-28-2011, 11:45 PM
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The backfire does usually mean the timing is a tad bit off, but a very rich fuel like starter fluid can also cause a backfire or a re-ignition of the exhaust gases. If you set timing at the tappets remember to set one tappet, rotate the motor all the way around to the mark again, then set the tappet on the other side with the correct gap.
This reminds me I need to reset mine because I'm getting more valve chatter than I like, from going with the smallest feeler gauge in the tool. Which was only .02 or .002 larger than recommended can't remember which, but seemed too miniscule to make a difference...boy was I wrong. Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 10-28-2011 at 11:48 PM.
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#7
10-29-2011, 04:08 AM
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djbrett, regarding the weak spark ... what's the condition of the battery? What voltage does it indicate at rest, then again while the engine is running?
Are you using an original selenium rectifier? Selenium degrades over time, regardless of use, so, you might simply have a weak charging system, and these 6-volt systems need to be fully charged to perform well and produce a strong spark. If the battery is relatively new but doesn't show a higher voltage when the engine is running, you may want to consider swapping out the selenium rectifier with a new silicon rectifier. This guy offers them at a great price and adds the correct wiring/connectors where appropriate: http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html
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#8
10-29-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Plugs not wet. So I am assuming they should be in order to get it to fire? Which should I start for an adjustment assuming I totally screwed up the fuel air mix, tightening the throttle adjust or lowering the needle? I would think it would be one of these two and not the idle air adjust. Also, assuming that I screwed up the mix is a good bet, this is the first vehicle I have ever worked on with a carb. Thanks for all of the input.
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#9
10-29-2011, 07:25 PM
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OK. Being that the plugs are dry means that you are not getting fuel. The adjustment screws on the carb body are just air and throttle stop, so even if they are incorrectly adjusted, you should get fuel. Adjust the air mixture screw nearest the bowl 3 turns out from the seated starting point (air mixture) The screw above air mixture screw is your throttle stop. Your idle speed can be adjusted by this screw. Turn it out 2-1/2 turns from the seated starting point. Once the bike is running you can fine tune these adjustments.
I am assuming your using the choke to start the bike. (you have to use the choke to start these old carb'ed bikes). When it gets colder you will have to let them warm up with 1/2 choke for a minute or two. To determine why the plugs are dry check: The fuel flow from the tank. It could be as simple as a clogged inlet or even low fuel. Set the petcock on reserve (just for kicks & grins) Make sure there is fuel in the carb bowl. There is a small (actually tiny) fuel inlet in the carb body that is actuated by the float. One small goober in this inlet can cause it to stick and not allow the fuel to enter the bowl. Also snug the carb bolts...do not overtighten Always go for the simple stuff 1st. It's easy to go overboard with deep detail about reasons an engine won't start. In your case I bet it is just a fuel problem.
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#10
10-30-2011, 04:35 PM
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sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In the end, it was a combination of things. Plugs were definitely fouled. New points were definitely needed. spark is now noticeable. By the time I was done screwing with everything, the mix was leaned out too much to do anything. Adjusted per instructions below. Started getting closer. Adjusted tappets, and here we go. The beautiful thing about all of this is that I almost feel like I have a basic idea of what the carb adjustments do. Go ahead and tell me it's easy, but it was like reading Cyrillic to me.
The only thing to decide is if it is ready to drive to work without much of a test drive tomorrow. I probably won't be able to wait another day. Thanks for all of the help.
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#12
10-30-2011, 05:39 PM
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Yeah, but it's prime bike season here in the valley of the sun (Phoenix). It's prime tear down season for you in the great white north, right?
Soon enough, that beauty will be purring. And your attention to detail will shine. That speedo looks great 
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