[Larzfromarz]

Let begin with the basics. The ignition system has some very basic components in its simplest form. These components include the battery (your power source- it's fully charged, correct?), perhaps an On/Off switch (in the case of a CA95 the key switch), possibly a fuse (it should have continuity and be of the proper size/rating), the ignition coil (actually it's a transformer and steps up the voltage to make a spark), the condenser, the contact/breaker points, the high tension lead (heavy "spark plug wire") and a spark plug and finally the wires to connect the components. Please see the "Simple ignition" diagram. All of the components should be healthy for the system to operate as it is designed. In this diagram, if you "trace" the line (which represents the wires in your bike) from the battery into the ignition coil, then out of the ignition coil, to the contact breaker points you can see it is continuous and therefore should have "continuity", or as you have traced it, be one unbroken line (or wire in your bike-Note: A connection does NOT count as a break in the line but must be considered as a potential spot of trouble).
In our simple diagram, the black wire comes from a power source (the battery), connects to the ignition coil (internally runs through the smaller "loopy" part) and comes out of the ignition coil as a green wire. This green wire then travels to one side of the contact breaker points and then continues on through the contact breaker points to ground (the "forky" symbol). This is called the "Ignition Circuit". You can see that the condenser branches off from the green wire (in the Simple diagram) and also travels to ground (again the "forky" symbol-Note: All "forky" symbols essentially return the electrons to the battery-see it has a forky symbol too).

Let's look at the more advanced (and therefore more complicated looking) wiring diagram that represents the circuits actually on your bike. For this discussion we are only going to speak of the ignition circuit to help relieve some confusion (close examination will identify the same components as the Simple diagram-battery, ignition coil, etc).
In the approximate middle of the Wiring diagram, identify the ignition coil (small box with the + and - inside of it) and note it has the black wire going in to the (+)plus side and a (G) green wire coming out of the (-)minus side of the ignition coil symbol. Since the black wire supplied power from the battery to the ignition coil, we should expect to see the same voltage as we see at the battery (Ca95 stock is 6 volts). From our simple diagram we know that internally the plus side connects to the minus side. The conclusion here is that we should see the same voltage (or very nearly) coming out on the green wire as we see coming in on the black wire (this is the answer to one of your questions).

We must also note that the contact breaker points are supplied power (voltage) by the green wire, so the conclusion here is that we should see the same voltage that we see coming in to the ignition coil as well as coming out of the ignition coil, at the connection to the contact breaker points(breaker points must be open to check this!). If all of this is confirmed (voltage at the points when the points are open) we can generally conclude that we have continuity in the ignition system up to the contact breaker points. If we DO NOT have voltage at the points (again with the points open) we must try to find where the "discontinuity" or break is the this circuit, remembering it can be anywhere in the circuit. Reviewing what has been covered to this point, you should be able to see where you DO and DO NOT have voltage using your meter or test light.

So you are probably asking "What then, does the condenser have to do with anything?". In the simplest sense, not much, but it IS important to making a healthy spark down at the plugs and also helps preserve the contact points from burning up or arcing. Also note, in both diagrams we've looked at it is NOT connected in-line (or series) with the circuit. It simply branches off of the main circuit and goes to ground (remember the forky thing). This connection is called a "parallel connection".

In practice the condenser acts as a small battery (condenser is another word for capacitor which is an electrical storage device similar to a dry cell battery). The condenser helps out the ignition coil during its charging and discharging cycle and acts sort of like a "voltage shock absorber". They, condensers, can get old and weak, just like a dry cell battery, and eventually will stop working. Here is not the place to discuss capacitor/condenser theory/principles. Since they are cheap its usually best to just replace them. Often weak or bad condensers are indicated by arcing or spraying sparks at the contact breaker points (when running) or a weak sparking at the spark plug (usually yellowish to orange sparks). If you see a lot of pitting on the faces of the contact breaker points (again due to arcing) you should replace the condenser while replacing your points. Notice this is why they sell "Tune Up" kits that have points and condensers in them together.

The contact breaker points are a basically a switch that turns the ignition coil on and off with the rotation of the engine. This turning on and off allows the ignition coil to receive energy and build up enough energy (through "inductance") to create a spark at the plug. The coil works as a transformer changing battery voltage (6 or 12 volts) to a high enough voltage (15,000 to 40,000 volts) so that the energy created can jump the spark plug gap exactly like a lightning bolt jumps the gap from the clouds to the ground (in conventional thinking). This voltage "stepping up" happens inside the coil and then travels the path created by the high tension wire (spark plug wire) to the spark plug. How it actually works is a bigger discussion than there is room for here.

Please note that this discussion does not take into account things like the ignition switch or "start/stop/kill" switches, other circuits like charging circuits but is just the basic part of how a bunch of electrons get from the battery to the ignition coil and down to the spark plug. This discussion also takes into account that the user understands the basic functions and usage of a Volt/Ohm meter, multimeter, digital multimeter or test light.

Hopefully this will answer some general questions regarding the "old fashioned" points/condenser/coil style of ignition systems found on most cars and motorcycles from the pre-1970's era.
Please if there are any additions or corrections feel free to point them out or add to. Nobody is perfect, least of all me.