Key Switch Question
 

I want all of you to know, that I appreciate your help very much. I try not to take advantage of your kindness and the time you take out of your busy days answering all my how to questions. I always try to spend a few days or more trying to solve a problem on my own before I bring it to the forum. With that said, here comes my next question.:o
A few days ago, kartgreen sent me a fully functioning headlight. After carefully following the factory wire diagram, in key position 2 I am able to get power to the headlight and engine cranking, but no start (no power to the points.) In key position 3 the engine cranks, fires, and runs perfectly, but I get no power to the headlight. I am thinking the problem is in the keyswitch, and if I am correct, is there a test procedure for testing the terminals on the back of the switch for full functionality in all of the key positions? At least to me, the wiring diagram in the repair manual doesn't really depict a good physical/visual resemblance to the positions of the terminals on the back of the switch.
Thank You
Steve

Connect the lantern battery + to the red wire (contact in the white plug) and using an alligator clip ground the body of the switch to the - side of the battery. Using a continuity light, with its clip also grounded to the switch body, turn the switch to each position and touch the light to each contact to check which wire lights up.

I have had several switches apart to clean and lube. They are nearly bomb proof, so finding a bad switch would be rare.

Having said that, are you sure that the switch is original? I know that the late CA95's & the CA160 switches are interchangeable, but I'm unsure if post 1964 switches work with pre 1964 apps.

Also, look at the crimps in the switch body. If they are a smooth depression, then they have not been tampered with. (unless I did it LOL) If buggered, then someone has taken it apart...you can reassemble the switch incorrectly which would cause your problem

Done.

The key tumbler is for the most part a closed unit. Blowing compressed air into it is folly. Please don't pour acetone in the lock. The plastic inner contact dial stands a chance of being damaged, should the acetone migrate into the switch. One cannot clean the contacts through the tumbler.

The plug being installed upside down...maybe

Hi Everyone:
Spokes, I did the test as you outlined above. I double and triple checked my temporary connections for good conductivity. In every key position I was only able to get power on the black wire terminal. This is the terminal that is next to the empty spot. (of course the red wire terminal had power too) something tells me there is a problem with the switch? Am I correct?
Thank You
Steve

Steve. Below are two pics of the inside of a CA95 switch.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/pictur...&pictureid=922
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/pictur...&pictureid=923

These switches are very robust. I can only guess that someone has fooled with the switch and did not install the diamond shaped contacts correctly. Send me the switch and I will correct it and send it back or remove the back (very carefully) and reposition the contacts as in the pic.

Chip:
Can you PM your address. :o I will hold on to it this time. :o
Steve

Done.

Done.

Hi Chip:
I mailed the switch today. I will paypal you return postage and any repair cost.
Thank You
Steve

Cool. When I'm finished with it I will install it on one of my bikes to make sure it works. I will give the answer to this problem to the forum as well.

I got Steves ignition switch today. At first glance, it appears not to be a CA95 switch. The back wire harness has been repaired and is lacking a white wire. Since I have extra CA95 switch componants and the housing is the same as the CA95/160 I plan to convert the switch to fit his bike.

I will also install it on my CA95 to make sure it works.

Very kind of you, Spokes.

Was the white wire simply cut away, or were the modifications more extensive?

No biggie really. I think the switch was for another model Honda, maybe a ca77or ca72. I just happen to have a ca95 switch back & harness. I keep obscure parts from all of the project builds. I also have plenty of breakdown pics..thanks to unlimited digital photography storage. ( I was the geeky 11 year old kid developing his own B&W film in his own darkroom,circa 1963 and still getting a kick out of keeping tons of pics without effort)

Anyway, The switch will be sent back tomorrow. I was able to use a harness plug & wires from a dead ca95 harness to power the switch and compare the results to a known good ca95 switch.

Basically, Steve's switch was loaded with white grease.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/pictur...&pictureid=937
Somehow, someone was into the switch thinking that lubing the crap out of it would do something... Also the back of the switch was soldered and some insulation was missing. The switch was cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease and reassembled with the ca95 switch back and the proper diamond contact configuration. I sealed the wire connections on the back of the switch with liquid tape. Just to be anal, I added the red and black color to the indicator "dots" The switch should be good for another 1/2 century.

Chip:
I appreciate your doing this for me. This is facinating stuff. That doesn't mean I understand it, but still it is facinating. I just didn't know if the problem was the circuitry/switch or my lack of skills. I know you do this out of kindness but Let me know what to paypal you for postage, parts and time. Friend, I really can't tell you how much I appreciate this.