CA95 Rear Shock Auction

[gbaumgratz]

Seems like someone got a decent deal since no one else was paying attention. I forgot to follow up... figures.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150435109114&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNA%3AUS%3A1123

Mine are pretty rusty compared to those. Does anyone have any information as to how to take the covers off of these? Maybe I'll sand down the chrome/rust area and paint them black until I can find better ones. Anyone have any better ideas?

[Spokes]

Here is how to do it.

Mount the shock in a vice
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=504
Here are the tools needed. 1. A strong scraper 2.) an automotive grade tubing spreader 3.) A 17mm wrench 4.) A Vice
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=503
Pry the base from the mount
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=505

Slip in the tubing spreader and the 17mm Wrench. The inside "nut" has only two flat sides.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=508


Insert an 1/2 "extension bar through the top of the shock mount-make sure to remove the rubber bushings first. Hold the wrench tight and unscrew the top
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=510
With the top mount off, you will see a stud with a screw slot. Some older shocks may not have a slot. Use a Dremel tool with a grinding disk to cut a slot. It makes it easier to get the nut off. Sometimes the nut will just turn off without having to hold the stem...but usually having or cutting in a slot makes it easier.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=513

Unscrew the nut
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=514
The spring tension in very little. Once the nut is removed the spring just slips up and away. The lower case is now loose and can be removed.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=515

Done
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=41&pictureid=516

[Smithers]

Nice pictures. Makes me want to take my spare ones apart and mess around with them.

[Spokes]

There is another set of shocks on ebay for the CA95 & 160. They are pretty clean, not perfect but very usable. They can be easily disassembled for chrome as well. The mounts have been polished and the rubber grommets good.

I know. I built them out of clean spare parts.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190392429493&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT
.

[Smithers]

To add a link in you forum post here just highlight the address of the web address in the Ebay window - then press "control + C" to store it in your computers temporary memory. Then press "control + V" to make it paste into your forum post here like magic. :)

If you want to make it the color blue which automatically makes a persons window open that link in a new window when they click on it - click on the icon that looks like a little globe with a chain link in front of it. Then paste the web address in the window that will pop up when you click on the globe icon. Give it a try.

[Spokes]

Thanks! You can still train old dogs new tricks! Done and corrected.

[Brewster]

Spokes those are nice. I dont really see any flaws other than they are 40 years old. To find flawless is rare and not expected where I come from.
The ebay funds are low for me right now otherwise I would be bidding.

[Spokes]

I guess your right. I tend to be a perfectionest. The plastic tops were scratched upon reassembly, but just the surface and on the inside. The chrome bottoms had rust but no dents. No flake of the chrome. The outside of one is almost new. The mounts were polished and look nice. One bottom mount has some rash.

I am restoring a set for another member, new chromed bottoms, painted tops and mirror shine mounts. Those will be perfect.

Next time I will alert the forum members before ebay.

[hoghungry1]

I was at a swap in Canfield Ohio this weekend . Picked up some shocks from these guys building mini choppers in a rigid frame. I will post pics but I think these would be a cool replacement if we can just find who made them. They are an exposed shock with what looks like the proper mounts. I have no idea if they fit yet but the guy practically give them to me!

They are aquiring them somehow with the kit they build from and tossing them. Interesting as hell. Will report back later...

[tuff cub]

thanks for the how-to photos- i'd been wondering how that assembly works.

[Smithers]

Yeah this is some good info for sure. They did a good job designing these shocks so that they are tricky to take apart. :)

[hoghungry1]

Hey- for future reference. I passed on a 300 Dream shock fer 15 bucks. Should I have grabbed it for parts or trading stock? It was in good shape no rust.....

Spokes will probably be mad at me fer passing it up with all his rebuilding wizardry on our shocks...

[gbaumgratz]

Definitely good info for when I get to the tear down stage - thanks for posting the detailed process. Are you offering up services on the shock rebuilds? Do you have a source for the replating of the chrome parts or are you doing it yourself there? Maybe an offline conversation could be had?

[Spokes]

The shock rebuild is tricky. I am doing a set for another member of the forum. He has metal tops on his shocks. Repairing and painting the metal tops is always easy. The plastic tops are the ones that make or break the job. If the plastic tops are in good condition they can be painted or clear coated. If the plastic tops are damaged then expensive epoxy has to be used as adhesive and filler. Just the epoxy is $25.00. I send out the shock bottoms for chrome. That price depends on the condition of the metal, usually $25-$35.00 per base. I am still waiting on the return of the plated parts (3 weeks). The only thing I do (besides repairing the tops) is buffing the mounts to a near chrome shine. A bad set of CA95/160 shocks can cost close to $125.00(pair) to restore to new condition, paint, chrome, polish and labor.

You can pm me about more detail. The turn around time due to the long wait for chrome could be 4 weeks.

[bamabob]

Here is how to do it.

Mount the shock in a vice
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=162(picture here)

Here are the tools needed. 1. A strong scraper 2.) an automotive grade tubing spreader 3.) A 17mm wrench
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=163(picture here)

Pry the base from the mount
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=164(picture here)

Slip in the tubing spreader
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=165(picture here)

Spread the mount from the base and locate the two flat sides.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=166(picture here)

Slip the 17mm open end wrench onto the flat sides of the shock mount base
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=167(picture here)

Insert an 1/2 "extension bar through the top of the shock mount-make sure to remove the rubber bushings first.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=168(picture here)

With the top mount off, you will see a stud with a screw slot.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=169(picture here)

The spring tension in very little. With a flat screwdriver screw the stud in until the the spring is released . Secure the wrench on the nut if the suud does not loosen easily . Sometimes the nuts are rusted bad and you may not be able to get them loose. Invert the assembly into a phosphoric acid bath or penetrating lube to help break the rust.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=22&pictureid=170(picture here)

Once the spring is removed the base is released. Keep in mind that once in a while you can't get the assemble apart. So sometimes one fails.

Spokes, any chance of posting the pictures that go with this thread? Would be great to see how its done.
Bob

[bamabob]

Nevermind on the pictures. Somehow I started several post into the thread where the pictures were not repeated so I'm good on this. But..... is there a way to open the shock itself up to replace seals and add oil?

[Spokes]

I just updated the procedure with pics.

No there is no rebuild kit that I am aware of to repair the hydraulic piston. When I need to do a shock build I buy extras as donor's. I think the top of the cylinder is peened making it a destructive disassembly.

[Jetblackchemist]

If your nut is stuck and the whole thing spins like mine did, you can cut a slot for a screw driver in the top, to hold it when you turn the wrench. They sell plastic welding kits at Harbor Freight...might be worth looking into for cracked plastic. My plastic was too far gone so I painted the springs, covers and just flipped the metal cover to use for the top...Ok for custom work but not restoration correct by any means. Of course I'll never sell my bike at any price so built to my taste is perfect for me.

[bamabob]

If your nut is stuck and the whole thing spins like mine did, you can cut a slot for a screw driver in the top, to hold it when you turn the wrench. They sell plastic welding kits at Harbor Freight...might be worth looking into for cracked plastic. My plastic was too far gone so I painted the springs, covers and just flipped the metal cover to use for the top...Ok for custom work but not restoration correct by any means. Of course I'll never sell my bike at any price so built to my taste is perfect for me.

Mine were done the same way by the PO and the chrome is real nice. I thought they were the wrong shocks. But dont really look bad and really should look good on a white bike to add some contrast. I think I'll polish up the shock body and go with it until I run across a good set of upper covers. Now that Spokes has unlocked the secret to taking them apart, its not a big deal.

As far as determining shock condition, I am now able to detect some dampening on the up stroke. I guess the oil settled when I left them in the correct position in the vice for awhile. There is no dampening(resistance) on the downstroke and it takes 2 or 3 times the effort to pull it back up. Action is smooth and rod is clean and straight. Is this about right? I have nothing to compare it to.
Thanks,
Bob

[Spokes]

I have done several sets of shocks. I have also found no info about the amount of resistance on the down or up slide. My take on it is that the shock needs resistance on the up slide to avoid bounce. The spring gives the resistance needed to carry the load on the down slide.

So if you have some resistance in the shock's up slide and no oil leakage then the unit is usable.

When putting the unit back together, lubricate the bottom (only) of the spring with a light coating of grease. This will keep the shock from squeeking....

[bamabob]

I have done several sets of shocks. I have also found no info about the amount of resistance on the down or up slide. My take on it is that the shock needs resistance on the up slide to avoid bounce. The spring gives the resistance needed to carry the load on the down slide.

So if you have some resistance in the shock's up slide and no oil leakage then the unit is usable.

When putting the unit back together, lubricate the bottom (only) of the spring with a light coating of grease. This will keep the shock from squeeking....

That's what I was hoping to hear on the resistance. And thanks for the tip on the grease.

[Jetblackchemist]

I was reading that earlier bikes shock design also took into account the sidewall flex of the tires to help dampen the ride. Newer tires and better technology yields less side wall flex and a slightly stiffer ride as a result.

When I flipped my shock assembly, I also flipped the spring where the tighter wound part of the spring was showing through at the bottom, it gives it a beefier look and less of a dirt bike looking spring that way. http://www.fourwheelforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=278&d=1306884159

Shocks seem to come up a lot on ebay although, the color you want them in is a crap shoot...I don't think I've seen white ones on there ever unless on a bike being sold...so good luck on original white ones. I think chroming the spring and painting the cover you do have white would definitely carry massive eye appeal, if you decide on that route.

[bamabob]

I'm going to see what it looks like with the chrome part on top, springs black and shock body highly polished. If I don't like it I'll get a pair of shocks for just some good covers and paint them white.