Building a Honda CA95 from Scratch-Where's The Bike Now?

[Spokes]

Hello All:
I have always loved the Honda CA95 Dream. My restored Dream is posted in this forum and since sold. I want to restore another one. But anybody can find another bike and just restore it. This time I am going to build a CA95 Dream from scratch. That means finding every part, getting it in the shop, restoring it to like new (or custom tricked out) and ending up with another Ca95 mild custom...but cooler that the first. As I find all of the parts and clean them up, I will post my progress and how I made parts like new or tricked.

Today (1-8-09) I got in a 1965 CA95 engine. So here we go.

I found a 1965 CA95 engine in PA, on ebay listed as a "pick-up" only, well I live 800+ miles away. So I set up a Fedex account, contacted the seller and built a reinforced box, sent it to him. When it was packed, and I was contacted, I sent a call tag and had it "picked up". Shipping ran about $120.00 but I got a nice engine for $25.00.

This motor was dirty, oily and still had the starter solinoid hooked up, one connection was rust welded.

Here are some shots of my first steps.http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=20
(picture here)

You can see it's pretty bad.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=21(picture here)

Secret 1.) I use Phosphoric solution to dissolve the rust-(Milkstone Remover)
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5$pictureid=23(picture here)

After soaking for a few hours(the more time the better) the rust was diminished enough to free the cable
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=22(picture here)

It is not widely known that you can disassemble the solinoid, clean and lube it. If you want to test it just touch the black wire to ground. the yellow wire to positive on the battery...if it "clicks"...it's good.

Secret 2.) I use PB Blaster to loosen rusted fasteners as well. But it makes a great spot degreaser
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=24(picture here)

As more parts come in and inventory builds I will post my progress. When its time to paint the bike, I will take a poll. I have already done black.

Time frame to complete the bike 9-12 months, maybe sooner.

Happy Trails

[aaron7]

Awesome thread, subscribed!

I don't want to wait for the polll... do a nice deep race car red :)

[Smithers]

It's amazing how well these little engines are built. Not too many engines are built well enough to be restorable 50 years later with mostly original parts. Time to start cleaning!

[Spokes]

Red might look cool trimmed with white buco bags. Can do.
Yep, but now it's time to clean. I have posted a couple of pics and wish to share a couple more "secret" tools, that without them disassembly of an old Honda engine would be much harder.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=27(picture here)

The hand impact wrench. I have had this tool since my 1st restore in 1975. It makes removing rusted phillips screws possible.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=28(picture here)

I carry this 12 impact wrench in my trunk for removing lugnuts on flat tires,on my car I have a screw type jack, so this tool makes changing flat tires easy. It makes removing bolts like the one on the flywheel with ease.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=26(picture here)

This is where I am today on the engine. I have to begin disassembly in order to begin cleaning. I always put my parts in zip lock bags. Each parts bag will be a mini project that I will write about as time goes on.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=29(picture here)

This is a sample of the last CA95 engine I did on the bike I just sold.

[aaron7]

Hmm, maybe I'll ride my CA95 down to you and leave it to be restored! haha

[Spokes]

You would not believe the requests to do just that. It could be two years from now that I just might think about a rebuild shop. Nothing on a grand scale. I have restored several Buco Twinmaster saddlebags and do some custom fab work once in awhile. I have a method to zinc plate nuts and bolts and possibly do chrome plating of small parts at some point.

It just takes investment, I have more time than money at this point.

But for now, just a build-up of another CA95. I already have people waiting on the outcome and interested in buying it when done.

[Smithers]

Awesome! Yeah Zip-Lock bags are KEY... as well as the impact driver. I bought a brand new set of bits for mine because if you don't have them in good shape you will mess up the caps on the screws for sure. New bits for the impact = taking care of your hardware when you remove it from the bike. It will really make a difference to have.

People that read this: NEVER just use a regular hand screwdriver/phillips to remove those screws from Honda engines!!! Impact drivers are like $10 at Harbor freight for Petes sake.

Yeah restoring those bikes just takes TOO much specialized knowledge to do and it's rare a person would actually pay the going labor rate. I know a guy personally that started a custom restoration business around here and it was a BIG shop with a showroom and everything! He just lasted maybe 2 years before he gave it up. Having one or two bikes being restored won't support the bills. This was all before the internet though which would have helped. He went on to opening an actual Honda motorcycle shop but the towns economy proved that it wouldn't support it. Anyhow that's another story!

I have always worked on race cars, raced for a couple years myself, restored trucks, cars, motorcycles etc etc.... I've been offered jobs doing all of this and owned an online aftermarket accessories shop for a couple years but it's just not worth the effort. Plus it ruins all the fun when you have to do it non-stop for a living!! I recommend just doing a few jobs here and there for people who really appreciate the effort you put in. That keeps it fun and helping people is always rewarding.

Building a bike every once and while is a lot of fun. Especially when people will want to buy it to fund your next bike build!

[Spokes]

I agree about the restoration business. I would have a micro business with a small shop on the property or an extended garage. No big showroom, just small speciality stuff to bring in extra income in a few years when I get to retire. My father was a master gunsmith, but only as a hobby. He was known for custom stocks, inlays, checkering and had a technique to make the most accurate shooting long rifle known. I only learned the accurate technique. But like him, only a handfull of people will know me.

So in short, someday, small shop, small plating operation, and custom builds. I am already doing turn signals and Buco Twinmaster saddlebag light systems, and stainless Buco saddlebag hangers for the 150 and 305 dreams.

[Spokes]

Well, the engine is disassembled. The autopsy was great! Seals were old and had leaked for years, cylinders are clean and need only honed. The pistons look ok, but new pistons & rings will be ordered. Some gaskets I have custom made.

From this point until ready for assembly the parts will be all cleaned, some polished. I will share a procedure to paint the aluminum cases. When finished the paint will be heat and fuel resistant, as tough as new.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=30(picture here)

Also while the motor is open and has degreaser on it, I cover it with a tote to confine the smell.
(picture here)
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=31

[aaron7]

Wish I could do that kinda stuff myself. I have that crank you sent me as well as a complete .020 over top end kit with even new valves! I'd be nice to know the bike I'm riding is mechanically new!

Maybe I could crate mine up and send it down to you? haha... but only half kidding there!

[Spokes]

The honing part is easy. I use a machine shop in Somerset KY that bores cylinders to fit new pistons, shaves heads, installs valve guides, cuts valve seats and will ream the guides out to fit new valves. He did the first engine I did as the top end was wasted. There is another contact I have called "mr. crankshaft" here in the state. He won't rebuild old Honda Crankshafts, but does offer to rebalance them. I don't know if that has any benefit, but its out there.

This engine is in fine shape for its age. I have an old fashioned good ole boy mower shop here in Bowling Green KY that will recut the valve seats maybe the valves seats. I may just lap them in. If I had a running bike like yours, I would leave it alone and ride the bike and enjoy. Wait until it breaks to work on the motor. As they say: If it aint broke..don't fix it.

[aaron7]

whoops!

[Spokes]

Wow, I am impressed! A twin cam, 16 valve turbo packed in to a Honda CA95frame. That will do a 1/4 mile in -10 seconds! LOL

[aaron7]

THAT'S where this post went... I'll delete it!

I had multiple forums up and could not for the life of me figure out where my post went! haha

[Smithers]

It's hard to keep track of all these posts guys! haha. Balancing the crank would be a great thing to do. If I knew someone who I could take mine to (when I had mine apart) I would have done it for sure. I have had a couple cranks balanced in race engines before and its worth it. Plus these Hondas REV so high! I really would like to have that done. Then I wouldn't have to use so much Locktite. :D But seriously it would help with the vibration and be easier on all of the components in the whole engine.

I still haven't broken in the blue CA95 yet that I rebuilt the engine on. Too many projects. But I know in the summer I'll be tuning and playing with it some. That is a goal of mine to put some miles on it and get it broken in, safety wired so it doesn't fall apart and running strong.

[Spokes]

I have not posted any pics lately because of a small snag. One of the engine studs that holds the cylinder jugs is stuck. Really stuck. I have tried all but one trick. Before I taunt anyone with what I am going to do, I did a little searching and found a big pile of garbage knowledge. That is someone suggested soaking an aluminum casing with a stuck steel stud in a nitric acid bath; "it won't hurt the aluminum" he write. NOTICE: Nitric acid will dissolve aluminum. IF you put aluminum in a strong nitric acid bath, you will not only dissolve the casing, but create a redish color toxic gas, inhale that and you could possibly be taking a dirt nap.

Having said that, I know from my own experience that a weak phosphoric acid solution does not harm aluminum too much. It basically turns it black from leaching the zinc from the alloy. This evening my engine case is soaking. If that does not work I will:

Chill the steel stud to -130F while warming the case to 180F....at the same time.

...I will explain how i did it after it works......

[Spokes]

Just in case anyone is following this part of the frozen metal post removal from a aluminum casting, I was successful in doing the task without destroying anything.

Basically I soaked the casting overnight in a weak phosphoric acid solution, then cleaned all the oil off of the back of the case. I brazed a nut on the end of the stud, heated the case (not really hot (maybe 200F) then with my 12volt impact wrench removed it.

I salvaged the stud by melting off the brazing and running a thread die over the threads. I filed and polished the stud and it is good to go.

There was one last scientific trick I wanted to mention. Keeping in mind that heat expands metal and cold shrinks metal, I was going to pre-warm the case and submerge the post in a dry ice and methanol mixture.

When you mix dry ice and isoproponal or methanol you will get a solution nearly as cold as liquid nitrogen. So the case would expand with heat, the stud would shrink with extreme cold. This is an old trick. But remember: always be careful when using extreme heat and cold-Always wear safety glasses and gloves.

[aaron7]

Cool info, but hope I never have to use it!

[Spokes]

I started with an engine as a starting point to build the CA95 Honda 150 from scratch. While the engine is certainly a multi step process, I am also collecting parts for the rest of the build. I feel that the hardest parts to find should be sought out first. The pics show a set of chrome gas tank panels, rubber knee pads, aftermarket plastic emblems and rubber grommets and nuts. These parts, with exception of the emblems came from a tank purchase on ebay. The tank showed a picture of the inside. The steel was "bubbled". Surface rust is one thing, "bubbled" rust is real bad news...But the side panels looked salvageble. The tank was scrap, but I got it for $9.99

The chrome panels have some bad chrome and a few dents. I used phosphoric acid dip for the bolts until they are clean, the panels will be sandbblasted, the dents pounded out and sanded smooth (you can sand steel smooth) then polished. At some point they will be sent to be rechromed. To cheat real bad with old rubber, I use rubber lubricant or spray UV protection to make them nice. Another trick is for small rubber parts, I use a ultra-sonic bath (a small one) with hot water and a teaspoon of Pinesol cleaner

I have seen "original emblem screws" on ebay, but not for me. You can ssimply tap them out with a 3mm tap and choose a common fastener of your choice. Finally, I have the ever dreaded fuel valve being delivered. I will make a seperate thread for that to show common mistakes.

Below are the pics as promised, There is a reflection of the wall clock and something else that makes the panels look worse than they are. The good chrome is just that shiney.

[Smithers]

Oooo I'll be looking forward to the fuel valve write-up! This will be a good education in choosing the correct chemicals and letting them do the work for you. If you break any whacky engine parts let me know as I have a parts engine apart in a box.

[Spokes]

Just an update on my progress. The engine I have started with is in really good condition for its age.(1965) I am still in the cleaning stage of all of the parts. I have the head "empty" of all parts and again all looks great.

This cylinder head has been the dirtiest ever. It has taken degreaser and hot water to start. Once it was clean enought to handle I pressure washed it.

One small trick is I soak the head in chrome wheel cleaner and boiling hot water (pint of chrome cleaner(not polish) to 1 gallon of boiling water) about 3 hrs. This solution also removed the deep oil stains on metal as well.

But alas, another problem. One of the fins was bent and cracked. Not the end of the world. I tried with care to tap it back in place and broke it off.

So, I will get some pics of before and after shots of the repair. A good fab shop should be able to weld it back on. If not, I am going to do a grinding trick that will make it look...acceptable to those who know what it should look like and to those that don't...ain't gonna know nuttin.

[Smithers]

Boy a cooling fins breaking off is a nightmare! I wouldn't waste the time looking for a guy to weld it back... sounds impossible on that type of casting and I know some insanely good welders. I quick grinding sounds appropriate! No one will ever know. We won't tell!
http://www.fourwheelperformance.com/phorum/smiley_sawzall.gif

[Spokes]

The engine fin is small, so I might try something outragious. I will let all know how it turns out.

To all readers of this thread, I am looking for a frame for a 64-66 CA95 as I move forward with my build-up. The frame can be in any condition as long as it is straight. Shipping is no problem. I can send materials and instructions to wrap it up, then send fedex to come get it.

So if you have one, no title, rusted, dented, bare bones, sitting in back of the shed..let me know the price and we can go from there. I know there are some ebay frames, but just curious if any of the forum readers would have one.

Thanks all!

[Smithers]

How about something like this? I have the frame sitting in the back yard getting rained on right now. I wouldn't mind if it disappeared!

http://www.fourwheelperformance.com/honda/fwf_r03.jpg

[Spokes]

Ouch...Soooo Close! That looks like a 1959-1963 Dream. Honda made a change after 1963. I will find out the difference between the years and move forward from there! The engine that I have is a 1965.

Thanks!

[Smithers]

Yeah it's an early one - diamond pattern on tank panels! And my other early one has square factory mufflers. I'll get the number off of it. We won't tell anyone it's an early model. =]

[Spokes]

Cool..The question is..and anything goes... Just the frame, bare bones? On a tight and slow budget, not in a hurry. So If it is just the frame, no forks..again, bare bones, no problemo. what do you estimate the weight will be?

If I can swing it..I would send out some shrink wrap, kind of like what one would wrap a pallet with, and all you would have to do is wrap it up tight so it is easy to handle. Personal shipping details will be off-line in private messages, and I also need a price.

Excited Thanks!

ps. I just bought a new, yes new, old stock original fuel bowl for......$10.00 including shipping. I may have to lie down for a while....LOL

[Smithers]

I'll trade you the frame for the fuel bowl. :)

[Spokes]

I should get the bowl in a few days. If it is exactly what "it is" then...deal on.

In the meantime I will do some homework on shipping rates.

Thanks Max.

[Smithers]

I was kidding about the bowl. We'll work it out. I would just like a donation for the forum costs if you want. :) I can make a shipping container or whatever too.

[Spokes]

Cool.I have left a personal message to work out detail.

[Spokes]

Found what might be a Honda junkyard within a few hours from me. This might jump start my build up project to hyper speed.

I will write about it once I see it.

[Spokes]

Still cleaning the engine for preparation to rebuild. Here is a couple of pics of before and after results:
Before
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=52(picture here)

After
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=53(picture here)

In the meantime I have procured the handlebar controls and have since rebuilt those and polished to a mirror shine. They reside in the "finished" box as I gain more parts. I am off to a Honda "Boneyard" on Monday on a search for needed componants. I will write about that on Jan 25th

[Spokes]

Found what might be a Honda junkyard within a few hours from me. This might jump start my build up project to hyper speed.

I will write about it once I see it.

Well, just returned from seeing the most Honda motorcycles and parts perhaps in the country. Mostly mid 70's to 90's 350's and up. Lots of used and new parts, frames,engines,bikes of all conditions. boxes of seals, gaskets, loads of old, but new unused tires. I found a pair of 2.75 x 16's!

No dream parts per se. But I did but a new, old stock unused light switch that fits several old 60's small bore honda's, got a new old stock fuel bowl and a cool set of metric chrome socketed head case bolts and washers.

Without a doubt, there must be thousands of parts. Next time I will spend the day.

[Sam Green]

Ouch...Soooo Close! That looks like a 1959-1963 Dream. Honda made a change after 1963. I will find out the difference between the years and move forward from there! The engine that I have is a 1965.

Thanks!

Spokes, the only difference on the early and late frames can be seen in the picture that Ryan posted.
If you look at the pressing on the side of the frame around the tool tray holder, where the two contures come together and vanish under the tank, they are about an inch further apart on the later model.

Sam.;)

[Spokes]

Thanks! I really could not find what the actual body changes were between the years. I will probably take smithers up on his offer. By the way, what would be your best guess on the weight of the bare bones frame?

I have to get an estimate on shipping and the least expensive to get from the coast of California to southwest Kentucky.

Thanks again for the info.

Spokes

[Sam Green]

Thanks! I really could not find what the actual body changes were between the years. I will probably take smithers up on his offer. By the way, what would be your best guess on the weight of the bare bones frame?

I have to get an estimate on shipping and the least expensive to get from the coast of California to southwest Kentucky.

Thanks again for the info.

Spokes

I don't know what the frame weighs on its own Spokes, perhaps Ryan could weigh it on a set of bathroom scales.
One of my race bikes weighs in at just 139lb, a big drop from 273lb standard.

Sam.;)

[Hohlederschatten]

The frame alone can't weigh more than 75-80lbs. With just the engine removed you can easily lift a ca95 frame, even with one hand.

[Spokes]

Thanks, I will use that weight as a ballpark shipping figure.

[Spokes]

The beat goes on.....
After cleaning the head to a mirror finish, alas, the valve seats were damaged. The head is in a newly found machine shop here in Bowling Green to cut the valve seats in the head. Now I have to look closer at the valves.

If the valves are have some damage, then it may be machine them to save, or replace.

After the valves are reinstalled, regardless of what direction the repairs go, the head will be pressure tested.

It is so important to have the absolute best compression.

[Spokes]

Building this Honda is a creative financial task as well as a mechanical and sourcing endevior.

I wrote in an earlier thread about "rebuilding the dreaded Honda CA95 Petcock". Well, I sold the finished unit for a great price. I love to refab and make a buck, as it allows me to move forward. With the profits I found a complete tank, with petcock, side panels and cap...I have badges but their the "wide ones" , but I also have the tank panels that they fit...another story.

So today, I am doing the masking and prep on the outer engine parts for my heat and gas resistant paint job. I'm arguing inside myself to paint or mirror polish the outer engine covers...

Lost a bid on a frame, but another will show up, I may keep restoring parts for profit and someday find that "heap rusty CA95" buy it and really get going.

[Spokes]

Got an email from from a friend who wants to liquidate a ton of CA95 and CA160 parts. I was graced to do the liquidation. So next week I am planning a parts inventory and ebay fest. There may be a CA160 in the future in a couple of months. So the rebuild may take a turn but the beat goes on.

I will be getting the complete tank for a 66 CA95 on Monday and do a visual pic instruction on the tank clean out and derust. I plan the derust and strip the tank as well. When I am done there will be a clean, rust free, primed Honda CA95 Tank, with petcock and polished, re-gasketed original cap.

[aaron7]

Be sure to post the ebay link to your page :D

[Spokes]

I sure will. About the week of Feb. 15th

[Spokes]

Well I did not want the progress of this thread to die. So a quick update. The engine that I have been working on is painted and will be recoated a couple of times more before reassembly. Here in southeastern KY, we have had the coldest winter since 1979, so painting is a challenge. The machine shop that said they could cut the seats turned out to be a dud. They work on race car engines and gave away their small engine machine parts. So off to another shop it goes.

I got my firat pics of a CA160 today that looks like it's headed my way. So to say the least, I will have a clean rebuilt CA95 engine to host up on ebay in the spring.

So this thread has taken an unexpected twist, to say the least.

[Spokes]

Well, I got the second coat of head resistant paint on the engine cases and back in the storage toolbox for another two week cure. Then a coat of heat resistant clear, another cure week and time to reassemble. The head won't be painted until the machine work is done, but from experience, fully cured paint on the cylinder block won't be affected by oils. The key to fuel and heat resistant parts is being fully cured.

Most folks paint after assembly, since this project is long term, I like to paint before assembly. Makes for cool detail.
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=81(picture here)

(picture here)
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=80

[aaron7]

Wish I had the time and resources to do mine right like yours! I know mine runs... but no idea what the insides look like!

Those parts look new... awesome work.

[Spokes]

For me it's the journey. I have found a CA95 frame and a way to get it shipped. The CA160 should be in my garage by June, but I have decided to continue with the CA95 build. So in a few weeks I will start taking pics of the frame and parts as I go along. The CA95 is going to be another mild custom. The hard part is getting a good gas tank. The second tank has holes in the bottom.....

I may do some surgery and some metalwork and make it a custom tank, until a good one comes along.

[Spokes]

I got the frame in today. The pic shows most of the items collected while waiting on engine paint to cure and seals...taking forever. The frame serial number is only 26 builds from the last CA95, most unbelievable.

I will be collecting wiring, forks, bars and such over the next few months. By late fall, should be tooling down the road. Don't know the final color yet.

The tank is junk because the bottom has more pin holes than a screen door. So, during the meantime I am going to modify it to look like the early Benly tank.

Also, now that I have a frame. I will work on a pic procedure of how to build a chopper seat like the black bike I did. This bike will have the Asian style as shown.

(picture here)
http://fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=88

[aaron7]

Spokes, if you need anything, I have many spare parts as I've stripped a couple bikes to build mine. Let me know!

[Spokes]

I found a complete wire set with rectifier, ign.switch, matching steering lock, starter solinoid. I am going to repair the wiring and add the turn signal wiring.

The switch and lock don't have a key, but I have a locksmith that has made several keys for old honda switches and locks in the past.

I think I found a set of forks, suspension and headlight bucket. I have a great low mile speedo, but it has a crack in the glass. I might replace the lens and reseal it, another custom job awaiting.

But for now, needs are: rear forks, one shock absorber, front and rear wheel assembly, carb, chain case. I am going to buy a couple of burnt out headlamps. I figured a way to rebuild the headlamp, but I need to sacrifice one headlamp to make the other work. I have already done one and it's on the bike I sold.

So if there is anything you have on the list let me know and a price, you can pm me with detail. Oh, the wheels can be bad, I replace the rims, polish the hubs, replace the bearings and seals and relace the spokes, no big deal.
I have a fedex account, so I just need the stuff boxed up, they come and get it at my expense.

Thanks.

[aaron7]

Ok, I'll take some pics of what I have for you.

[65Honda]

thanks for the tip on curing the paint before exposing to heat/oil. Just wondering what on the C95 engine was actually painted and what was polished? Do you use a type of paint that works better than another (rattle can type I am assuming)

Jim

[Spokes]

The points cover and the left side and the oil "filter" cover on the right was the only polished parts. The engine was painted. I have seen polished case engines, they are cool, but takes a ton of effort and has to be maintained. Great for the trailer queen, but I ride my restores when finished.

My trick for painting engine cases is really involved, but done in my shop. There are more ways to put a good resistant coat of paint on engines, but the way I describe how I did it worked. I spilled gas and oil on my paint many times without lifting the paint.

I paint the parts when the engine is apart. Doing it on the bike will work as well but the secret is allowing the paint to cure.

With engine apart I degrease, wash with dishwashing liquid and soak in a phosphoric acid bath an hour. I remove the part from the bath and spray on Eagle brand chrome cleaner and scrub with fine steel wool, then rinse. I try to sand flat any gouges at this time.

I then rinse again with water, dry with a paper towel and rinse the part with acetone-wear gloves!

I wear clean gloves everytime I handle the part after these steps. Now here is the kicker...The paint that I use, again it worked for me once and I am repeating the same procedure at this time.

Case paint: Duplicolor Engine Enamel-500F-Silver
Duplicolor Engine Enamel-500F-Clear
Cylinder Paint: Duplicolor High Heat Black 1200F
Cylinder Head: VHT Flame Proof Very High Temperature Header Paint-Silver


Case :Each color can be recoated within an hour. I apply two coats and wait at least a week.
Repeat.
After the case paint is fully cured I clear coat it twice and let cure for a week at least and reassemble.

Same for the cylinder and head-BUT NO CLEAR COAT STEP.

If you can't do the same prep steps as I do. Take the time to degrease the engine and use steel wool to prep the surface.

When you paint the engine have some acetone ready. If you see that the paint is not sticking, or get "fish eye" wipe the paint off with acetone before it dries, allow to dry and start again.

To the readers of this procedure: I am aware of powder coating, 2 part enamels, baking the paint and so on. My way is an "at home" procedure when you have more time than money and no spray equipment (yes, I have spray equipment)

[65Honda]

yeah I think I share your opinion on the polished engine casings. I would look really good but would be hard to keep nice. I have all of the spray painting equipment too but will try your method. I want it to look as it did new.

Now if it would stop raining long enough, I could back the mustang out of the garage and start painting bike parts........

[Spokes]

Found and bought a complete CA95 front fork assembly with suspension and headlight bucket. Should be here in 10 days or so. The gas tank with the holes in the bottom has had the rusty bottom removed and will have the inside sandplasted clean. New metal will be welded and while I am repairing the tank, I will install a new modern petcock mount in the bottom metal before having it welded closed. I may or may not modify the tank other than correcting a modern new chrome petcock. Once all of the body parts are found like the air filter side cover, rear swing arm, one shock absorber, front fender and when the tank is tested and restored, it will be time to paint.

As the paint cures the engine will be assembled, wiring will be rebuilt with signal wire integrated into the harness and the search for wheels exaust and small parts will continue.

Pics will start in 10 days of where the bike is.

Target date August. Still thinking about color....part of me wants candy red, part of me wants pearl white. Can't be stock.

[Spokes]

Well, another saga of an ebay find. When I buy a batch of parts off of ebay I always look for whats unusual, not the total package.
This listing offered all of the electrical package, coil, switch, matching fork lock, rectifier, harness...I love it when they say.."all of the ends are good on the wiring harness"

Keepers are Ignition switch and matching lock, already at the locksmith having keys made. I have a locksmith here in Bowling Green..She makes keys for all of my Honda project locks....

The coil is as of course has been wire bastardized. The coil tests good, wires will be corrected and new spark plug wires and caps installed.

The Rectifier still has the insulation on it, but pretty dry. I will renew the dry insulation.

The wiring harness....wow, taped, spliced, cut. I will probably source another harness. But for $21.00 and shipping for the package, a gamble worth taking.
I always save all connections from an old wire harness. Also, always save as much of the good wire as possible. It comes in handy to have donor wire during a rebuild to match color codes. When I find a good harness I will unwrap it and include turn signal wiring and then rewrap it.

Next week, engine paint will be cured and the engine rebuild begins, hard frame parts should be arriving.

[aaron7]

I've gotten many "mint" parts from ebay only to get what you got! Is it a scammer or do they REALLY think that is in good shape??

Sorry I'm dragging my feet with the parts too. I have the list and I'll make it back over to my shed at the parent's house today!

[Spokes]

I don't think it's scammers. It is rare that people know vintage parts to any degree. That's why I always look for items within a "package". In this case the prize was a matching ingnition switch and a fork lock. If you have a locksmith as I do a matching set with a key increases the value of the find.

Being able to update good original ignition coils and starter solinoids helps as well. The wiring is the least of the find.

Take your time with the parts.

[gbaumgratz]

I realize you already have the locksmith involved in your key situation, but as a note for future endeavors - I've used http://hondakeys.com/ many times for matching NOS keys to ignitions when the number is available. I've purchased spares and even keys for the recent CA95 find that I'll start in the spring. No problems at all.

[Spokes]

Thanks I will remember to check out the site next time I am in need. But 9 times out of 10 she makes me a key while I wait...and I have not spent over $5.00 for a pair. It is a good ole' boy network down here in southwest KY and you can't beat the hospitality.

[gbaumgratz]

Sure does sound like a deal - couldn't get most of the locksmiths is this area to unlock their front door for $5 much less make a key for a lock when you have none. Anyway - just passing along the source if there is a list somewhere. Plus it's nice to have the shiny new actual 'Honda' keys sometimes.

[Spokes]

Update time again!

Got in my front forks...again, same story, "only some dents" Well, back to the restore mode. The headlight bucket has holes drilled into it, front fork was hit and ground down one shock tower, and no shock tower mounting bolts or bearings.

But once again, ain't beat down completely, forks straightened out and with the headlight bucket, off to the sandblaster. The headlight bucket will be repaired and steering roller bearings found. The races were perfect, so no cry there. Found another shock tower and that should be delivered in a week, and now missing only 1 part...one shock tower bolt.

Wheels should be here today, and the white complete white CA160 should be here in about 10 days. Pics coming soon. Once a rear swing arm is found, a shock tower bolt and the rest of the ebay hardware, junk or not, arrives she will be up on two wheels.

[aaron7]

I have a complete front end if you need anything. Let me know and I'll add it to the box!

[Sam Green]

Update time again!

Got in my front forks...again, same story, "only some dents" Well, back to the restore mode. The headlight bucket has holes drilled into it, front fork was hit and ground down one shock tower, and no shock tower mounting bolts or bearings.

But once again, ain't beat down completely, forks straightened out and with the headlight bucket, off to the sandblaster. The headlight bucket will be repaired and steering roller bearings found. The races were perfect, so no cry there. Found another shock tower and that should be delivered in a week, and now missing only 1 part...one shock tower bolt.

Wheels should be here today, and the white complete white CA160 should be here in about 10 days. Pics coming soon. Once a rear swing arm is found, a shock tower bolt and the rest of the ebay hardware, junk or not, arrives she will be up on two wheels.


Damn Spokie, you're gonna be a buzzy bee:D:D:D Do you ever get to your local drag strip? I might see you down there one day if you do.

Sam.;)

[Spokes]

Aaron, Sam

Aaron, Thanks, just one lonely shock tower bolt would be great. Your stainless bolts and special tap should be there today if not tomorrow!

Sam, I have not been to the track here in Bowling green, My days of drag racing was in Ohio in the early 1990's at Norwalk Drag Raceway.

Should you be here in BG. Just let me know, just a 20 minute trip for me.
Always liked the smell of alcohol exaust fumes, burning rubber combined with noise........good vibrations....

[Spokes]

Finally got a good used wire harness dated 1964, so all I need to do is unwrap the wires check for burns and add turn signal wiring into the harness and rewrap and store until ready to install. The 1st harness recieved was bad but some good color coded wire was salvaged and used to replace bad wires on the coil and starter solinoid. The spark plug caps are in and once the new spark plug wire arrive the old spark plug wires will be replaced and new caps fitted. Coil had an OHM reading of 2.8 so I trust that with the updated wire it should be good to go.

I got in a new headlight, 6v replaceable bulb type...sweet. The bike should be ready for 1st pic's on two wheels in a few days.

The white CA160 is on the truck being shipped and expected within a week. An additional thread will be started about the CA160 and it's transformation to a daily mild custom rider.

[Smithers]

I'm tempted to make wiring harnesses from scratch for people who are restoring these bikes. If only I had the spare time. :) Wiring is probably one of the biggest problems that people seem to be facing when restoring them. I'm talking about the normal enthusiast who wants to get one running... not the pros here. :D

[Spokes]

If we could only play without work....

It would take about 10 hrs to build a fixture then get the ignition plug from Hondaminitrail.com ,assorted ends and wire.

Once a fixture is made and an inventory of color coded wires and connectors at hand, you could build a new harness in about an hour.

[Spokes]

3-27-10 The bike now has the front forks and headlight bucket sandblasted, repaired and primered. Found good ball bearings and with the good races, able to mount the forks. The front suspension and rear forks will be in next week, so the bike will be on it's own wheels (shown). The coil and starter solinoid have been repaired. The 2nd set of wiring looks good and keys were made for the ignition and steering lock. New headlight delivered..

The engine rebuild will start next as well. The objective is to assemble the bike as is, make sure everything works, engine runs etc., and break the bike down for paint and tires.

The way the bike looks today 3-27-10
(picture here)

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=115

[Spokes]

Wheels on. Rear swing arm turned out good (thanks Aaron) The rear shocks are up side down but will work until better ones or better parts arrive.
The bike is taking shape, it is rolling inventory now.

In the back of the pic is my 68 CA160 just arrived today.
(picture here)
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=123

[Spokes]

Here is a before pic and a after pic of the engine build for the CA95. The case was cleaned and painted before assy. Painted 3 coats heat/fuel/oil resistant paint the 2 coats clear of the same. Paint cured 1 month.

When I started
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=30(picture here)

Where I'm at now 4-4-10
(picture here)
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=146

[Smithers]

Ahhh now that's the way to do it! Awesome.

[Spokes]

Today was shock absorber day. Had two shocks with fair chrome lowers but no uppers, just got in some shocks with bad lowers and good metal uppers. I disassembled all the shocks and combined the parts. Result,two nice shocks. I have one extra bottom going to another forum member to do the same for him. I will make a thread about how to redo the CA95 shocks.

You can rebuild the CA95 shock, you can send out the lowers for rechrome or paint, you can make them any way you want.

[Smithers]

Now how about the adjustment process in regards to the telelever front suspension? Is that what it's called? Front cantilever suspension... something like that. I just know my CA160 rides LIKE a Dream :) but my 150 is definitely a little rough on the road in the front end. I've always wanted to do some adjustments up front between the two. I'm sure you'll get to that point soon.

[Sam Green]

It seems strange that a machine shop can balance a crank but can't do a rebuild:confused: did they give a reason Mr Spokes?

Sam.;)

[Spokes]

Ah, yes. The shop that rebuilds crankshafts only does dirt bike cranks. Being that the standard CA95 crank is pressed together and not intended to be repaired, the machine shop felt it was risky and might be liable for damages if the engine seized on the road and caused an accident.

[aaron7]

Box is on the way chip, sorry it took so long. That fender made the box huge! haha

[Spokes]

Thanks,
If there is anymore I can do for you, just let me know.
Chip (aka Spokes)

[Sam Green]

Ah, yes. The shop that rebuilds crankshafts only does dirt bike cranks. Being that the standard CA95 crank is pressed together and not intended to be repaired, the machine shop felt it was risky and might be liable for damages if the engine seized on the road and caused an accident.

All Benly cranks are repairable Mr S, do you remember this thread where I warned members about the repair kit on ebay saying they were for CA95s.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/showthread.php?t=841 when in fact, it will only fit the C95.
Look at the exploded view that Ryan posted (2nd post) it shows all components numbered, the numbers lead you to the part numbers in the parts book.
Any individual component in the crank can be repaired/replaced.
If it was none repairable, it would be a one piece crank with bolt on rods and shell bearings.
The crank I would asume has to be stripped of the rods to ballance it so if they claim the can break it down to ballance it, why can't they put new bearing in it while its apart. The two claims don't add up. (not blaming or having a go at you)

Sam.:(

[Spokes]

No argument here. My take on the crank issue was based on the experience of my freshly rebuilt CA95 engine seizing the crank within a couple of hundred miles of riding. I pulled the crank and just for kicks took it into the shop and broke it apart with the 20 ton press to see what happened. The left rod bearings were powder.

I checked with the local rebuilder who tells me about the crank. I suspected that the crank could be repaired. But my only source would not touch the job because of liability issues, not that it can't be done.

I chose another good crankshaft and put the bike on the road again for less than $50.00.

For me these bikes are tinker toy fun projects. When done they are fun to ride and I get a kick out of doing my thing without the worry of major expense as I do my own work.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 4-11-10

With most body parts collected, it is time to tear down the "rolling inventory" and begin paint prep. The body parts will be sandblasted and further sanded. At the same time I am tearing down my CA160 for the same.

Over the next two weeks everything will be repaired, prepared and primered. Any loose parts I need/get during the prep time will be added to the job.

If another CA95 tank is not found, the one that I have will be repaired and a custom new stopcock mount will be added to the new tank bottoms. Being that the CA95 is assembled from parts collected from everywhere, I don't have to be concerned with originality. The goal is a custom cool little bike ready to roll by late summer.

As the painted parts cure. The tires will be removed from the rims and wheels de-spoked. The hubs will be serviced and polished. The rims may be replaced or tricked out in color, relaced then off to have trued.

Then it wil be time to finish the engine and build the exaust.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 4-13-10

Well I found and won another CA95 tank on ebay. This will be the third attempt to gain a salvagable tank. This time, if there are pin holes (and of course everyone who sells tanks on ebay claims no holes...) I plan to derust the tank and take it to a radiator repair shop. We will see if the tank is good. I should know in a week. I will build my own stopcock adapter for the tank and install a nice new chrome one as well.

I pulled off the front tire from the rim to discover that the hub and brake drum is broken. So back to the auction for another front wheel. I found a chrome shop with reasonable prices, so I might have the original DID rim chromed as it is nice shape and relace the "new-used" hub once found. Aaron sent me some nice salvagable parts, Thanks loads Aaron, so the only thing left body wise is a tool tray cover.

[aaron7]

I have a front wheel assembly if you need one.

[Spokes]

Thanks Aaron. pm me with a price.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 4-17-10

While the frame is still bare I got a great restorable fender. (thanks again Aaron)

After sandblasting and removal of the old Bondo this fender has the same problem as my previous CA95 fender and my CA160 fender (being restored at the same time) and that is that the bottom of the fenders have been damaged.

So today, with both CA95 frames bare and their perfect rear fender flares are at face level, I am going to rework the front fender flares back into shape to match.

The metal work will have to have some bondo but only a small amount. If I have to, I will make a mold from the rear fender flare and form a fiberglass cap and attach it to the final repair.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 4-20-10

I got a great gas tank, but it turned out to be for a 1959-1962 Benly Dream. It is the same as the later years but has onlt two bolt mounts and a "C" hook for the frame. I re-ebayed it. If it does not sell, I will keep it and modify it to fit. Nice tank....bummer

[Spokes]

4-28-10
The project has slowed a bit. At this point I will be working on the wheels and hubs. Mostly disassembly polish check bearings, seals and the like. I will most likely replace all wheel bearings and seals. Once the hub and rims are assembled and trued, then tires.

Once the wheel are complete then it will be a slingshot advancement. I am working on the CA160 which will be done much sooner than the CA95. So for now, a few notes here and there. The final decision on color is a metallic pearl blue.

The tank that was mentioned earlier will be fitted another member made a great trade for my crashbars for a fuel petcock. A great trade from all aspects.

[Spokes]

4-30-10
Here are a couple of pics of the tank "conversion" for the 65 CA95 build. I had mentioned that I finally found a sound tank for my build. When I got it the tank it had no bolt on front mounts! The tank was advertised as a 1964-1966 CA95 tank, but was actually for a 1959-1962 model.

The previous tank I purchased was correct, but the bottom was rotted out. After derusting and making sure the tank was fume free, I cut the mounts out of the bottom and threw the tank away.

I am building a CA160 at the same time, so I compared the tanks and they were almost a perfect match. The only thing missing on the CA95 tank were the front mounts.

So in the following two pics you will see what I did to make the tank work.

Below is the CA95 frame used as a fixture to set the mounts on the tank. You can see that the tank was stripped to bare steel. The mounts were derusted and their surface ground flat and clean. A few dots of JB Weld epoxy was added to the mounts near the center as not to contamnate the up coming weld.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=375

Once the epoxy was cured the mounts were once again brushed clean and welded on by my fab guy. He knows that I can make a gas tank fume free and safe to weld.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=376

Below is the finished welded mounts
The refit was spot on. Soon the tank will be primed and await color.

[Spokes]

5-2-10

Here in Ky it rained 2 days straight. 6+ inches. So instead of body work, today was rebuilding control switches. I found on ebay a left and right set of handlebar controls that were beat. Bad wiring, missing ends and the throttle side had no wire at all.

Now they are like new. I had purchased a couple of wire harnesses from ebay. One wire harnes was burnt and beat. So it became the donor wire source for the controls. I also removed the front wheel rim from the broken hub. I will vibratory clean the spokes and await another hub. In the meantime within a week the rest of the body parts, less one side cover, will be sandblasted along with the CA160 parts.

The CA95 will take a backseat to the CA160 as summer is close at hand. The CA160 will be done by June. Then back to the slow progress of the CA95.

I am looking for handlebar perches, any condition, with or without handles, and the bottom of the chain guard, any condition. Also a throttle pipe.

[Spokes]

5-8-10

Well the frame will be sandblasted next week. All of the parts with the exception of a missing lower chain guard have been sourced.

Being that the CA95 will be custom. I might modify the upper chain guard as it is damaged. It may be custom cut to look like a one piece guard.

I intend to build a saddle type seat or a springer. Still thinking about it.

Along with the CA160 both bikes will be painted identical.

Acrylic Enamel with a hardner package.

Metallic Candy Apple Red.

The CA95 tank will be modified again. I will install a 22mm fuel petcock bung and have it welded in. Then the new chopper bobber type chrome petcock will be purchased. $25.00 delivered.




As the parts are painted I will be posting pic's

[Spokes]

5-13-10

An extra battery cover was painted today as a sample. The pic below is the color for both this build and the CA160.
(picture here)
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=15&pictureid=183

[joeficsit]

5-13-10

An extra battery cover was painted today as a sample. The pic below is the color for both this build and the CA160.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=15&pictureid=183(picture here)


me likey. I've found a 62 near me but havn't pulled the trigger due to title concerns. what are you going to do for a title?

[Spokes]

Here in Kentucky, all I need to do is take the serial number of the frame and the engine number to the DMV. They will run a search. If clear, they issue me a title. To register for plates the bike has to be road worthy. It gets inspected by the Sheriff Dept. and they again match the title to the bike. Once the Sheriff Dept. signs off the inspection, you buy insurance and bring all documents to the DMV. Pay $ and a plate and registration will be granted.

Be aware that all states may not abide by the same rules. I would call the DMV of your state and present your case.

Good Luck!

[Spokes]

Just an update and a delay.
Due to being unemployed for nearly a year I have decided to put this project on hold. I plan to liquidate some parts and use the funds to finish the CA160. Once things get better, I will continue with the build and re-source the parts spent on the 160.

As of this date 5-16-10 I will discontinue updates for the near trm.

[joeficsit]

Here in Kentucky, all I need to do is take the serial number of the frame and the engine number to the DMV. They will run a search. If clear, they issue me a title. To register for plates the bike has to be road worthy. It gets inspected by the Sheriff Dept. and they again match the title to the bike. Once the Sheriff Dept. signs off the inspection, you buy insurance and bring all documents to the DMV. Pay $ and a plate and registration will be granted.

Be aware that all states may not abide by the same rules. I would call the DMV of your state and present your case.

Good Luck!

you sir are very lucky. Here in Texas it is nearly impossible. it takes a title, copy of owner (on the title) driver's license, to make it happen. If not, then a bonded title can be purchased but it takes bonded title insurance, and several stacks of paperwork.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 8-22-10

Well, since I am still waiting for the Harley Hummer project bike (maybe the guy backed down) I have decided to restart the Building a Honda CA95 from Scratch-Where is the Bike Now Project.

The time frame should be 6 -8 months. I have started to build inventory again. There may not be any pics for a while until I get the bike back on her wheels. As I go along, I will be writing about the refurbishing of old parts using chemistry, polishing, sandblasting and painting. Also there may be another custom springer seat build and a straight exaust system.

Since this bike will be built from parts sourced it will have "Remanufactured" Title when finished.

Currently looking for a CA95 engine 1964-1966 in any condition.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 8-24-10

I got enought parts in to do a mock assembly of the CA95. Since this is a bike that will be assembled from parts around the country and not assembled as such from the factory, I will have a little creative fun putting it together.

I found a good tank, but it lacks the front mounts for the frame.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=273
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=273

I have extra mounts salvaged from past bad tanks. I am able to defume the tank and have my fab guy weld them on. While I am at it, I will have a new 13/16 tank bung welded in. This means that I can have a new gas petcock and forever be relieved of trying to find an original petcock and then fighting with crappy parts to make it good.

The shocks have been disassembled. The one in the pic is thrown together fro the pic. You see the orange rack? It was $4.99 off of eBay and is for a mid sixties Honda Trail 90. I will modify it to fit. Also I plan to build a super low solo seat, maybe with springs, maybe not. Another forum member is sending me a front fender, so all I need as far as sheetmetal parts is the chain guard, battery holder and tool tray. On this bike I will probably go with plastic side covers, because the shock tower covers are plastic.

Then I need to locate an engine.

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=272
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=272

[gbaumgratz]

I think I have an extra tool tray - I'll throw it in with my stuff when I get ready to leave today. If you want it you can have it.

[Spokes]

Thanks Greg!
I look forward to meeting you in BG!

Chip

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 8-27-10

I got in a front wheel assembly yesterday. Just the kind of clean up I like!
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=24&pictureid=275(picture here)

After a soak in the Phos bath it and a little cleaner
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=24&pictureid=279(picture here)

I will remove the spokes, sandblast the tube side of the rim and polish the spokes, hub and brake parts then reassemble and true the rim. To restore a crappy wheel is high effort and low dollar.

I also got a great visit from member gbaumgratz! Greg, that was a great visit and a pleasure indeed! So now at least one member of this forum has visited the shop of Spokes!

[Sam Green]

I'm really hoping we can fit in a meeting at Bowling Green Drag strip, then you can add another visitor to your list Chip.

Sam.:)

[Spokes]

My welcome mat is out Sam! I am about 20 minutes from the Drag Strip.

[gbaumgratz]

Yes, it was nce to stop by and put a face with the name. Nice setup as well, people probably don't realize the few necessities to accomplish much. Not everyone needs a professional shop to accomplish great things. Now if I can make some progress on my stripping and painting...

[65Honda]

hi guys,
sorry to interrupt. I haven't posted in a while. Just wondering if anyone has a really good method of polishing the aluminum hub assy's. I get that it's a lot of labour. Just what to know what method works best? Mine are decent with no big pits - just dull and oxidized.

Jim

[wnbasac]

just send them to Spokes he's the best around by far and gives a great price! he did some polishing for me and everyone swore that i had chromed the pieces. I'm very pleased with his work.

[Spokes]

Polishing hubs to a mirror shine takes a high speed buffer using green or gold rouge. Generally you have to burn in the shine. Fairly tough with the wheel assembled. Generally if you want to just give a nice shine (not chrome mirror finish) start with with 000 steel wool and work down to 0000 steel wool. Follow with an aluminum paste polish and a good cotton cloth. If you see a kind of "off color patches" that means that some old clear coat still exists. Carefully, apply some paint stripper to the hub and rinse off with a rag saturated with rubbing alcohol and repeat the step above. This should give a nice shine.

Thank you for the good words wnbasac. It is a pleasure to max out your expectations!

[65Honda]

thanks I'll give that a try. The hubs do look good when polished to a shine. worth the effort I think.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 9-5-10
Well after stripping the front wheel and removing all of the rust from the rim, I painted the tube side only to notice some pin holes. Rim is trash. I was able to harvest a good hub, brake plate and associated parts. Well back to a front and rear wheel search. Push come to shove I will order new rims and relace the old hub. After polishing.

Today I primed the sandblasted parts and put them in storage until I get all of the sheet metal parts. If I can get all of the metal parts before December I will be able to paint.

I am looking for the following "body" parts: Chain Guard & side covers. I may get asian plastic side covers as they are paintable. The chain guard is the tough and expensive goodie.

Also looking for a front and rear wheel along with an 1964-1966 engine in any condition.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 9-11-10

This weekend's task was to convert the CS95 gas tank to fit the CA95 frame and install a 13/16 bung in the tank to fit a new petcock.
Here is the tank. Clean and bare.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=273
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=273

I used a pair of tank mounts that were salvaged from a rusty and wasted CA95 tank. Their backside was machined down and they were trimmed to fit. I used the CA95 frame as a fixture to set the mounts. I used a small amount of JB Weld to hold them in place until they are welded.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=375
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=375

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=376
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=376
I have also grown tired of fighting old Honda aluminum fuel petcocks. Installed is a 13/16 fuel tank bung and a new chrome petcock. I sleeved the petcock to match the intake tube normally found in the original petcock.
No more leaking old petcocks and expensive bad rebuild kits.

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=377
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=377

[Sam Green]

Neat job Mr Chips:):cool:

Sam.;)

[srq68]

Nice, I like the petcock, where does it come from?

[Spokes]

The petcock is a 13/16 base straight fitting made for a Harley. I insert a smaller O.D. tube to restrict the flow closer to the flow of the original petcock

The bung has to be welded in. Request a 13/16" thread instead of the 22mm as listed. Why? The 22mm petcock is very expensive where as the 13/16" is fairly inexpensive. Also, you have to slightly enlarge the opening in the tank to fit the bung.

I got both from ebay. Use search words: 13/16 fuel petcock and 22mm tank bung

[srq68]

Great! I found both on eBay. Should be in the mail soon.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 9-22-10
The frame and several obtained parts have been sandblasted and primed. But a unexpected and welcome job offer was accepted and I will be transfering to MN.

The shop, bike parts and personal items are boxed up. The shop of spokes will be reassembled in the north country. This build will continue at that time.

[gbaumgratz]

Congrats on the new job - but there goes the hobby time. You'll be back to no time with the rest of us. And so much for painting 8 months out of the year!

[Spokes]

Thanks Greg! It was a pleasure having you stop by in Bowling Green. I tried real hard to stay in the warm comfort of KY., but it was not to be.
Back to building engines and general mechanics during the winter and painting in the summer. Maybe an outbuilding this time......hmmmm

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 10-12
The project is still packed away in a semi-trailer along with the rest of the household. Today is a search for a new home and shop digs.

[Smithers]

Good luck with the move. Pictures will be back shortly.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 10-24-10

Move final and the shop has been 75% rebuilt in Eden Prairie, MN. Started to buy more parts for this project.

Found were the front and rear wheels complete with brakes and axles. The only sheetmetal parts needed is the chain guard. I will probably build a portable paint booth to continue painting.

Still looking for an engine. CA95 of CA160 in rebuildable condition.

A friend here in MN has dropped off another 1965 CA95 frame to start the next bike after this one.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 11-14-10

The build continues in MN. I have aquired the front and back wheels complete with brakes, hubs and axles. The rims are sound, but the chrome is bad. The wheels will be broken down, cleaned, hubs polished and reinstalled in new rims & spokes. New bearings and brake shoes included.

All the sheetmetal has been obtained with the exception of the chain guard.

Only the metal side covers and front fender needs to be prep'd & primered.

Still looking for a CA95 or CA160 engine in any condition.

[mundtquist]

Hi Spokes. Welcome to Minnesota. I live in Saint Paul, about 30 minutes from Eden Prairie, and I have 4 CA95 engines available. 3 turn over and one is stuck. I will PM you with my phone number.

I also have a chain guard.


Steve

[Spokes]

Thanks Steve, it was good speaking with you this evening. The engine and chain guard (or more parts) are most welcome!

[Smithers]

Lucked out I say! Funny thing about stuck engines. It all seems to depends on if the intake valves were left open or closed. :)

[srq68]

Spokes,
I have a restored red 1/2 chain guard if you want. Can't remember if it's the upper or lower half though. I can check and send it to you for just the shipping cost.

[Spokes]

Thank you srq68 for the upper chain guard! This weekend I intend to travel to St. Paul to pick out a CA95 engine and additional needed parts. The only thing holding up the project is the temperature in MN. It is 14F in the shop..brrrr.

So the project will limp along for the next 4 months. I am targeting June of 2011 to finish this project and the CA160 I recently started a thread about!

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 11-27-10

Thank you member mundtquist for the engine, steering bearings and fuel petcock parts! Your tanks should be done in 7-10 days or so.

The engine I rec'd is a 1964 CA95. The engine is "stuck". I broke down the motor to find that one piston is seized by at least rust. This engine has sat idle for many many years. The usual oily build up has hardened to near stone hardness. But this is the kind of challenge I like.

The engine will be in baggies by this time Sunday night. Then the cleaning and assement begins. Unless the crank is sloppy, this motor will run again and be attached to this "build from scratch" project.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 11-28-10

The engine has been torn down. The engine was "stuck" due to one piston being rusted tight in the cylinder. This engine was rebuilt at one time. The cylinders are bored over 1.00. The pistons look oddly new. The rings on the right side were rust welded to the cylinder. The wrong clutch plates were installed which explained many chipped teeth in the transmission gears. The inside of the crankcase was as clean as new. My theory is the engine was rebuilt or modified by an inexperienced person and did not run long after the fix. With all of the mud and grease packed in the case, it sat disgarded in a poor setting for many years.

So it looks like a re-sleeve or find a replacement cylinder, a couple of tranny gears, seals, gaskets and a valve job and it will live again.

[Sam Green]

Chip, if you have any oversize 160 pistons you can bore it a bit bigger,
I've taken the 154cc block out to a full 175cc. Hepolite used to make +1,5mm oversize pistons giving 164cc.

Sam.:)

[Spokes]

Thanks Sam! I think the cylinders are kaput. It looks like they were bored off center. I am suprised that the crankshaft is not too sloppy. I have to measure the lateral play in the piston rod to make sure. The crankshaft seems ok, but what bothers me is that the left rod (same side as the frozen piston) has more lateral room at the crankshaft bearing, then the right.

[Smithers]

Let me know if you need anything. *HINT*HINT*

http://fourwheelperformance.com/honda/ca95_spare_engine_01.jpg

[Spokes]

Thanks! Right now I think I need tranny gear clusters and maybe a cylinder. Let me know the $ and shipping for the tired motor in the pic!

[Smithers]

I think this chunk I have here is only good for the crank and the transmission. What's your zip code to ship to? If I remove the cylinder head studs this thing could fit in a decent size box. These parts should be in really good condition. They have low miles as the bike was decommissioned because of a fall on the left side which bent the clutch rod making the clutch unusable. Then the exhaust valve was left open when the pistons came to a stop so the elements got the best of the cylinder. The rust ruined the cylinder when I removed it.

[Spokes]

The tranny gears is what I am after. If I get the crank I would use it, as I am a bit concerned that the one I have may be bad, but I have not measured it.

The crank and gears would fit in a medium flat rate box (been there done that) It should be under 20lbs. Let me know Zip is 55347-3000

[mundtquist]

Sorry the motor was such a turd. You can have the the black 1965 (3000 mile motor with bad left side cover, not stuck) for $50 or the non-stuck 62 for $40. The 62 would be easier as it is already out. I may need a little help with the 65 as my back is still killing me from my fall.


Steve

[Spokes]

No apology needed! I knew that the motor had a chance of being bad and the price was right. I learn a great deal when I tear into an engine. It seems to tell me where it's been.......

I will take the 65 motor when your feeling better. No rush as the cold may put a stop to my progress. Call or PM to arrange P/U

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 1-6-10
I am looking forward to Saturday 1-8-10. Forum member mundtquist has come thru with a couple of motors some wheels and misc parts. One motor goes to this project, the other motor goes on yet another project frame!

The yet to be started next project will be a fun off the wall little CA95 race bike. But that's a thread to be started later in the year.

By May all of the parts needed will be ready to assemble and finish the "build from scratch CA95" and by May I hope it warms up....Sat. the weather prediction say's dry and a high of... 8 and a low of -5........... brrrrrrrrrrr

[Smithers]

Awesome.. more projects! Glad you sourced a stockpile of parts from one place. That saves a lot of time hunting around. I could spend days looking around at people's old Honda race bikes they have created. It's fun to see custom pieces that people engineer. Yeah we're all waiting for the weather to warm up a little that's for sure. Of course I cheated and located a propane heater for my garage and I feel so spoiled! The propane BBQ tanks actually last a really long time.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_M_ebNyNrvFw/TSPxCdHBuBI/AAAAAAAAIY8/VGLFCFE6q9o/s640/IMG_3245.JPG

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 1-9-11
I should have the engine torn down today. Interesting thing about this engine is that it looks like someone rebuilt it..kind of. The inside of the motor was dry and for the most part clean. The valves and cylinder head is carbon free. But most of the screws were buggered or wrong and all of them were loose or lightly tightened. I am very pleased to have this motor to save. I am looking for a used cylinder as the one on this engine has broken mounting tabs. If no cylinder can be found by April I will swap the 1962 CA95 engine cylinder out and install it on the 1965.

[Smithers]

That's good news. Usually everything is frozen up. On the other hand cylinders are not so easy to find in good shape.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 1-12-11

I decided to tear down the 1962 CA95 motor anyway. Unlike the clean inside of the 65 motor, this one has been idle for a very long time. The engine is salvagable for sure. I am cleaning 1/4" thick oil paste from the bottom of the crankcase and sorting parts to be cleaned. The reason this motor stopped working was due to a bent piston ring. I am still looking for a cylinder, but I have lots of time to find it. I will rebuild both engines by spring and keep the 62 for the 3rd bike build or as an extra.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 1-15-2011

The build from scratch project will have a mix and match engine. From the 3 motors obtained, two will be built from salvaged parts. The 62 had a broken uppercase and rusted to damage shifter drum. One of the gear clusters was frozen and had a bad retaining clip. The 65 had a busted cylinder base. Since all 3 engines were bad for different reasons, the combined salvagable parts plus some parts from eBay will build two very nice engines. Right now with the temp being around zero, cleaning parts is all that can be done.

I have finished rebuilding controls and have built the first handlebar assembly.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 1-16-11
Here is a shot of the bare case engines. These cases are made of the best parts from my engine purchase and a lower case from a motor from a previous build. I may use the 62 cylinder head with the tach drive on a case with a 1964 serial number.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=431

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 2-2-2011

The best of the best parts are assembled and the engine case is now closed.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=458
I am waiting on a oil seal kit. I found what looked like a rusty old cylinder on eBay that when cleaned, turned out to be nice. I salvaged a pair of nice 1.0 over pistons that polished up nice. The cylinder will be bored to fit the pistons.

A friend here in MN gave me a new CA95 front fender. New old stock, never used.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=459

So the CA160 project bike fender will be repaired to match the new fender and installed on this project. The new fender goes on the "project 1966 ca160" build.

[92merc]

OMG! They're not polished!

Just kidding ya! I know who I'll be calling when I'm ready to get my CA95 rebuilt. :-)

[Spokes]

Good one!

No, I paint the motor's. It's easier to keep them nice that way...BUT I will be polishing some parts.

What you don't see is that I polished all of the shaft contacts that ride against the new seals.

No problem..keep me in mind..

[mundtquist]

Hi Spokes,

I have a couple of decent frames in St Paul.
One is the black bike your engine came out of and the other is black and in storage.

Steve

[Spokes]

Thanks and I will keep those frames in mind should I decide to build more CA95's. I have an extra frame in waiting for next winter.

Time Stamp
2-13-2011

I have ordered new wheel bearings for this project and the CA160. I am waiting on parts for the engine. So far the only thing I need to get is the lower chain guard, the inner chain guard (aluminum part by the sprocket) and the carb cover.

I hope to start assembly by May and finish the bike around July.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 3-27-2011

In a few weeks I can start to lay out my parts for pics and finish. Still to cold to paint. So far I have only a cylinder to hone to complete the engine for this project. The engine has been put together with motor parts from 3 others. A second engine awaits my third build for next winter. I have modified a set of handlebars and installed polished controls and perches. The throttle will be external until I come across a good set of original set of handlebars with an internal throttle. My new bearings are in and they will be installed my CA95 hubs along with my CA160 wheels. I may get another rear wheel as the one I have has is bent. I have some extra rims but the chrome is bad. I may have the rims powder coated or paint them to match and just polish the hubs and re lace and true the rims. Still looking for a lower chain guard.

[Greggo325]

I might just have an extra NOS lower chain guard. I just bought a lot of primered guards off feebay. I'll let you know when they show up and I get a chance to fit it.

[Spokes]

Great. The last piece of the puzzle! If it fits PM me with a price! Thanks!

[Spokes]

Putting the engine together. I was able to locate a good cylinder that fit a set of pistons from one of the bad motors. I'm looking for a standard size set of rings. I have 1.0 and .5 overs, but no standards.

Does anyone have a standard set?

[bluerider]

I can't help with the rings but could you explain why you want to put an internal throtle on your bike. What years had internal and which had the external? Does one work better than the other?

Robin

[Spokes]

The bike will be a 1965. Both frame and engine. My previous CA95 (1965) and
CA160 (1968) had internal throttles. So I am trying to keep the final product as close as possible to what was available that year.

As far as what works better, internal or external...well I don't really know. I also don't know what years had the internal or external throttle set ups.

I am working on machining a slot into a blank set of new bars and retro fit an internal. I also have a set of original set that I'm refinishing the steel for plating.

[bluerider]

My 64 has an external but since it had already been partially restored I have no way of knowing if it came that way. I like the cleaner look of the internal so I may look into changing it over if I can come up with the parts.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 4-13-2011

Just some pics of motors in progress for the CA95 build. The far right engine is for this build. The one on the left is for the CA95 build after this. A thread will be started for the 3rd build later this fall.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=479

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 4-19-2011

The build from scratch engine is finally coming together.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=483
Soon it will be ready to install. The wheels are being taken apart and polished. I found some nice wheels with good rims and they are soaking in my phos bath. Once the spokes and hug are polished they will be relaced and trued. I am waiting for my run out guage for my truing stand.

[kartgreen]

Spokes ,Lookin good . I'm sure you've thought of this but just in case , after you've rebuilt the head it's much easier to set valve to rocker clearance by adjusting the valves with the feeler gauge going thru the upper motor mount opening . You don't have to fumble with feeler gauge , 10 mm wrench and rocker arm wrench ,plus you can see the rocker on the heel of the cam .

[Spokes]

Now that is a great suggestion! I will set the tappets exactly as you indicate. I have to mention another suggestion by Sam Green. When installing the piston & rings, 1st set the inside circle clip into each piston. With the cylinder off and upside down, install the pistons so the rings are in the cylinder up to the piston pin holes. Lower the cylinder on the studs and align the the rods to the pin holes, slide in the pins, set the circle clips...and your done!

I used a stop to keep the cylinder at the right height while inserting the pins and clips.

Thanks again!

[Greggo325]

I might just have an extra NOS lower chain guard. I just bought a lot of primered guards off feebay. I'll let you know when they show up and I get a chance to fit it.

I ended up with 2 NOS upper guards :( If I come across one on ebay or elsewhere, I'll let you know.

[Spokes]

Thanks! A lower guard will show up somewhere I'm sure!

[Spokes]

4-29-2011

It is hard to believe that 1.5 years have gone by since I started this thread. Sometime in the next two months the bike will be finished. I am also finishing up the 66 CA160 along with this build.

Below is the latest pic of the engine build. It is close to being finished. This engine has been assembled from many parts of other motors.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=488

[Smithers]

Time sure flies. It just takes a so much time to gather parts for these projects. The little Honda 150 looks great! Always nice to take some pictures of the engine assembled before it goes back into the ol' bike. They are just good looking engines.

[Spokes]

time stamp 5-5-11
Today new tires, rim strips and inner tubes have been ordered. This weekend (weather permitting) the final body work will be complete and 1st color will be applied to all parts less the lower chain guard...still looking.

Final color will be candy apple metallic red. The only decision is to go with grey undercoat or black undercoat. I'm leaning towards the black to give the bike that dark cherry look.

Pics next week

[Jetblackchemist]

Good luck firing it up and popping it out of neutral for the first time :)

[kartgreen]

The color should look awesome ! Wife and I look forward to seeing your projects in a couple of weeks .

[Smithers]

Heh that's the same color I'm painting my new (old) Dodge diesel truck! Well mines more of a blood metallic color but we'll see how they spray.

[Spokes]

Getting closer. The engine is almost finished. New tires are in. Body work and painting started.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=532

[Smithers]

Looking great! All decked out with Allen head screws. How about the tires which ones did you go with? *EDIT* Woops I just found the tires thread. I'm jealous. Those tires looks comfortable and safe - unlike my original rubber hehe. Your tire link (http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum//showthread.php?t=1266)

[Spokes]

The engine from many motors is complete with exception of a few screws.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=540
The small bike parts are painted and waiting. I will paint the rest of the bike this week late. Meanwhile I am polishing hubs and spokes. If it rains I lace and true wheels, if dry I will paint. After paint will be wire harness and turn signal wiring.

Getting close.

[Spokes]

Finally getting some painting done. Below is the tank with a mild two tone color. http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=545

[Spokes]

Here's a pic of the painted parts so far. I finally found a lower chain guard and it's being shipped to me. Once I get it, I will get the lower and upper chain guard sandblasted and get it in line for painting. I should be done painting in 10 days or so. Then I will start the wiring (including the turn signal wiring.)
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=566

[weestrom05]

that looks great, bot the engine and the frame. I makes me wonder if i really want to just preserve mine. Curt Is there a torque value to use when changing to the allen heads or does one just tighten them. I'm going to chsnge the clutch side when I put mine back together.

[Spokes]

To restore, customize or keep original is a personal choice. There is no wrong answer. I'm a custom guy. I get a kick out of stopping all of the corrosion and adding years back to the metal. This project is custom. A build from scratch trick. So the bike never was...until now.

Be carefull with the stainless allen head screws. Remember stainless is way harder than aluminum. I tighten by feel, snug is plenty tight. After the engine gets hot for the 1st time, snug the screws a bit more.

[Spokes]

6-14-2011

The front fender flair is finished and ready for paint along with the lower chain guard. I would not make a big deal out of this task, but getting the fender and lower chain guard right was a challenge.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=571

[joeficsit]

I love the fact that this bike "never was" and now here it is.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 6-25-2011

You really can't tell which frame and parts are the Build from Scratch project and which parts are the CA160 restore project. This is a pic of all of the parts on their paint stands. Today is the 1st sanding of the first coat of paint. Some minor flaws are being worked out as well.

Each of the parts shown is absolutly rust free and clean as the day they were made.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=584

Below is the engine in waiting.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=586

[SinjinLe]

Nice work!

[Smithers]

Not that is an awesome looking engine. It's pretty exciting seeing all the finish working coming together.

[Sam Green]

Looking good Chip, don't get the frames mixed up. :D:D:D

Sam.:)

[Smithers]

I can't wait to see the results of this build. And I can't wait to start working on my bikes again soon. Too much car work lately. :-\

[Spokes]

Looking good Chip, don't get the frames mixed up. :D:D:D

Sam.:)

Thanks Sam! But a good point to bring up! From what I can see, the only real difference between a 1965 CA95 and a 1966 CA160 frames are:

1.) The serial number
2.) The seat bracket under the tank. The CA160 is larger than the CA95
3.) The passenger foot peg mount on the swing arm
4.) The chain guard. You can't mix a CA95 chain guard upper with a CA160 lower chain guard. BUT you can use a complete chain guard from either bike and it will fit as long as you use a complete set.
5.) The starter cable from a CA95 will not fit a CA160 (Too Short) But you can use a CA160 Starter cable on a CA95 (you will have a little extra)

Besides the slight frame difference,

1.) The engine mounts for the CA95 & CA160 are the same.
2.) The wiring harness is different from the CA95 as compared to the CA160 as the CA95 point condenser is internal and the CA160 the point condenser is external.

The gas tanks are the same except the tank panels from the CA95 have badge mounting holes that are closer together than the CA160 badge holes.
This makes a difference when buying generic replacement badges.

I can say from building both bikes at the same time that you can bolt a CA160 engine into a CA95 frame (or the other way around) as long as you change the wiring harness to match the engine.

[Spokes]

6-29-2011

2nd coat of paint on the Dreams today. Only a couple of paint flaws to fix.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=595

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 7-4-2011
Finally after two years of collecting and restoring parts..the build actually begins. Today, the first step was to install the tail liight and wiring the frame for turn signals.

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=599

[kartgreen]

Spokes , lookin good . I'm sure you know this already but with all the new paint on our bike parts ( frame ,engine ,etc) the reminder to everyone , the frame (chassis ) is the ground source for the electrical system to work properly . If it's an electrical part being bolted on ,ie- coil, starter solenoid , rectifier , head and taillight ,engine to frame ,whatever else ,scrape a little paint from the bolting areas so everything has a solid ground point .
The other alternative is to run seperate ground wires to each individual component if you can't stand the thought of removing fresh paint .
See you in a couple of weeks hopefully .

[Spokes]

Thanks for the reminder about the ground when wiring. Yes I do grind off fresh paint to get a good ground. Wiring is next to this build. I just gt my new crome spokes and will be lacing wheels next week.

Time stamp 7-9-2011

I have been collecting front suspension parts. The pic below is the best parts assembled to gain two tight front ends for the dreams. The suspension is loose for now. The parts were cleaned and polished before assembly. Tomorrow the polishing continues to the shock parts. I hope to assemble the shocks as well
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=606

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 7-10-11
Forks mounted today and shocks built.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=611

[Spokes]

Shocks Pic
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=612

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 7-28-2011

A quick pic of what the bike looks like today. I hope by the end of August she will be finished.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=615

[Sam Green]

Looking realy nice Chip, where did you get the embelisher with built on turn signals from, Canada perhaps?

Sam.:)

[Spokes]

Hi Sam. No, I machine out a fender brace and mount a bullet light to the emblem plate for rear signals. I fit a clamp to the handlebars and a bullet light for fronts.

The switch is an add on, sourced here stateside. The winker is imported from Asia.

You can see a complete set on my bikes in my album.

[Sam Green]

Chip, why don't you just use C95 fender brace?

Sam.

[Spokes]

Certainly could use the C95 brace. But actually......I like the look of the 1964-1965 CA95 rear fender brace with the retro fitted bullet light. I also have converted the same brace to the original Asian turn signal design for others...but alas, the bullet light is just a matter of preference.

[Spokes]

Time Frame 8-13-2011

Up on her rear wheel. Wiring in. More progress pics soon.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=624

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 8-16-2011
Countless hours, over two years time, the bike stands on her own with the engine mounted.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=629

[kartgreen]

Chip , the bike is looking great my friend !

[lavs4X4]

Wow! Spokes the bike looks awesome. Some good motivation for me. Where did you source your wheels from? Maybe I missed it somwhere in your thread.

[Spokes]

Yea, the tire info is in another thread.
You can get these tires at www.denniskirk.com part#54368 $33.99ea. They also have the proper tubes and rim stips.

The rims are used. I machine buff the original chrome to near new condition. The spokes are chrome from Asia. I relace and true my own wheels.

You can make your used rims and hubs look nearly as nice with some 0000 steel wool and chrome polish.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 10-11-2011
Time flys. The build from scratch took a back seat to my CA160 Build. So it will remain a project for yet another winter. I have new exhaust pipes on order and will be thinking about controls again. I can't commit to original controls at this point. I will be building a solo seat and maybe do something with the handlebars..not sure yet.

My wife and a good friend here in MN have been after me to consider finishing the bike in pink. Making the bike into a Breast Cancer theme bike. This bike has been reconstructed. It could easily be considered a survivor. So over the next 6 months I will be doing some creative thinking. Once finished it will be donated for auction and the funds used for breast cancer research. These updated may be few over the next months. The final entries will be next summer.

[Spokes]

Got in my BMW style pipes and aftermarket exhaust pipes. The bike is taking on a life of its own. Slow progress ahead.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=680

[Spokes]

Yet another opportunity and move pending. The project will be packed up along with the shop in MN and moved the Orangeburg SC area. Looking forward to the completing of this project in the spring (which will be a whole lot earlier in SC than MN.)

[wnbasac]

Chip that's great to hear about your new adventure Best Wishes to you and your Family.

[gbaumgratz]

Yes - good luck again with the move. Back to a closer location for a visit on my NC trips.... at least closer than the midwest.

[Spokes]

Thanks all. Once the shop is set up, the welcome mat will be out for any forum member who might be in the area.

I plan to continue rebuilding the CA95 & CA160's into the future. Although I may build a good old fashion chopper . A buddy of mine already has a knucklehead v-twin waiting for me. (not for a while though...)

[Spokes]

The shop is mostly packed. The moving truck shows up on Tuesday. The shop, the build from scratch will be packed in along with personal goods.

This move has landed us somewhere near Statesboro, Georgia. The next pics will be after new years and in southern digs. The build resumes then. Merry Christmas to all.

[kartgreen]

Chip it's 22 degrees in Minnesota this morning and you want to leave for sunny South Carolina ! We hope you have a great move and get settled in quickly . Have a great holiday and get back to the build .
I'm doing a few cosmetic things to the red bike ,new stainless spokes front and rear as well as polishing the hubs ,removed the old and pealing gas tank liner ,replaced with Caswell liner and a few other mechanical repairs .Should be ready for spring .
I also have 2 sets of stainless exhaust pipes bent and I'm waiting for my machinist buddy to make the fixture to roll the edge flat on the head side .
I have one set polished and they do look nice . they're going on the Blue bike .
It was a bit of a learning process to get the pipes bent correctly but the last 2 sets came out pretty well .

[KellieLyne]

Spokes, I wanted to say thanks for all your help so far with my CA95 and Buco bag wiring. I hope you have a sucessful move, and get back to your rebuild in a timely manner. Have a wonderful Christmas and New Years!

[Spokes]

Thanks All! It has been my pleasure to help in any way I can. Only one correction..it was 8 degrees this morning...and now that the sunset....4 degrees.

Next entry will be in a couple of weeks.

May all of the forum members and their families have a Merry Christmas and a happy and prosperious New Year!

Chip (aka Spokes)

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 12-15-2011
I thought I would add a last chapter in the build from scratch in MN. Below is a pic of the bike sitting on a shipping pallet I put together.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=702

The shop, bike and personal goods are packed in a semi-trailer. Next stop, somewhwre around Sylvania/Statesboro, Georgia.

[65ca95]

Enjoy your new home. Lot different weather than MN. You'll be able to work year round without freezing.

[Jetblackchemist]

Hey spokes, it's been nice down here in Columbia s.c. for the last week upper 60's :) Welcome to the general neighborhood.

[Sam Green]

Hey Chip, wishing you lots of happiness in your new home this Christmas and throughout the years.
You now have no excuse to get out of meeting and me buying you that beer.
April in Valdosta, just down the road:D

Sam.;)

[Spokes]

Hey Sam,
That will be very, extremely cool. I look forward to April!

[Smithers]

Alright a new home and a new garage to set up! The good thing is that you get to set it all up nice again and have everything all organized and clean. You got a shop heater to put in there? :)

[Spokes]

No shop heater needed! Below is the new digs in Sylvania GA.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=705

The shop & personal goods show up next week and the shop and build from scratch will continue. Hope to really be done by April. In the meantime I will be shopping aroundfor my next project.

[KellieLyne]

Beautiful home! Life is rough huh Chip? ;)

[Smithers]

Looks top notch. You even have a nice driveway with a perfect slope to jump-start motorcycles! Perfect.

[Spokes]

Thanks, but I have to admit that yes, life is good. On the otherhand, this area is very depressed. The home in the pic is less expensive than the place in Eden Prairie and twice the size. LOL and yes again, the drive has a great slope for starting bikes...but if they don't start...man what a push.

[Smithers]

Yeap I'm kinda keepin an eye out for a mansion in some area where there's no demand because of location... that means LESS PEOPLE out in that area to bug you! :D

Now you should enclose that sunroom and make it a showroom for your bikes! hehe You know, make it into some usable space.

[KellieLyne]

Hey good idea!!!!..... Chips Museum!!!!!

[Sam Green]

Looks a nice sizeable shed/shop Chip, how about a picture of the house that you'll be living in.:D:D:D:D:D:D Ya'll have a happy new year;)

Sam.:)

[Spokes]

Happy New Year Sam and to all! Good one.... Tuesday Jan 3 the moving truck and all the shop goods will be delivered. Checking out the garage and making plans. The home is rather big for just the two of us and a small dog.....

I hope to come down to Valdosa and meet you, as I will be traviling down the Florida way to get with some long lost family.

My neighbor tells me there is a Cushman Scooter club....It's all going to be very interesting.....

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 1-26-2012

Finally the shop is together enough to continue my build. I will be using the fuel petcock from my new CA160 project to complete the fuel system. I will post some pics soon. I really hope to be done within a month or two. The Georgia weather is a welcome blessing for building any project.

[Sam Green]

When it's cold in England, go race in Georgia:D:D:D:D

Sam.:)

[Spokes]

Finally back to the build. Today I assembled the handlebar controls. Like the bike, they are made up of parts collected over time. I found a nice set of original handlebars, straight and nice chrome. I decided to go with the original petcock set up for the tank. I should have all of the parts this week.

I intend to do the tank/carb leak test off the bike. I built a test stand from an extra frame (the rear fender was sent to Sam). I will mount the carb to a vertical part of the frame and bolt the tank to the frame. This way I will know if I have a problem.....before it goes on the bike. The final project will be to build a solo seat assembly. It may be like the seat i built for the CA95 I built a couple of years ago. (pic in my album)

The bike looks like it may actually be finished soon. 3 years in the making. I will do a youtube video of the complete bike and the story behind it.. Then it will be donated and auctioned to support the fight against Breast Cancer. A friend of mine's wife works for the American Cancer Society and they are making arraingements to pick up the bike when done.

[Sam Green]

that is so :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::c ool: chip.

Sam.:)

[ByTheLake]

... Then it will be donated and auctioned to support the fight against Breast Cancer. A friend of mine's wife works for the American Cancer Society and they are making arraingements to pick up the bike when done.Spokes, that's a wonderfully generous thing to do. I'm looking forward to your video and seeing how the bike turns out.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 2-25-2012

Clutch cable custom cut and installed. Controls built and mounted. Chain guard installed. This week the ignition switch will be installed and the battery hooked up. If no wiring issues, the tank and carb will be mounted. My bike building judgement day will be soon when the bike is fueled up, battery mounted and starting button pushed.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=739

[ByTheLake]

Looking really nice. Outstanding work. Please post more pics and updates as you finish. That bike will make some owner proud when its auctioned.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 2-29-2012

Exhaust installed. Ignition switch in. Battery installed. The key was turned on today for the first time. The pic below shows the LED tail light illuminated.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=740

The brake light works and there is power to green lead wire that will be connected to the points & condenser. All that is left to do is to install the points/condenser plate & components, the pre rebuilt carb and fuel tank.

Bike builders judgement day soon......video to witness the first start.

[65Honda]

Hi Spokes,
I have a question regarding the chrome trim on the fenders. Were they available from Honda when new? I haven't noticed them before ...

Jim

[Spokes]

Ah my forum friends, you gotta know that I think out of the box. The chrome trim....is actually....chrome door edging from the auto parts store. An old trick. The plastic trim forms well around most any corners. I do the fenders and the side covers as well.
Below is a pic from a previous build as an example.

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=45&pictureid=577

[ByTheLake]

Spokes, I was wondering if that adhesive chrome molding would be flexible enough for curving around fenders, etc. Thanks for sharing. It looks good, I'll likely steal this for my restoration.

[65Honda]

I was suspecting it might be auto trim. In any event it looks good - gives the bike a more finished look. Especially the side covers.

Jim

[ByTheLake]

... oh, and one more thing, Spokes. You've messed up my entire restoration plans with those pictures, especially that last one. I was planning on going with "original-same-ol'-boring-black" on my bike, but the color on your bike is gorgeous. I'm doing 2 concurrent '65 restorations (CA95 and CA102 Super Cub), so maybe I'll consider a non-original color for them, since the bikes are for my own use anyway.

[Spokes]

Yeah I hear ya. The color is a simple 2 part acrylic enamel, Candy Apple Metallic Red with a grey base primer. You can make the candy colors jump out with a silver, gold or white base. I used the grey base as I wanted a slightly darker red.

Having said that, I am going the other way with the next build, which is again another 66 CA160. But this time it will be Artic White, maybe metallic or pearl. It will sport matching Buco saddlebags. I have the complete set of Buco saddlebags staged and ready to paint. The custom visored lights are being built (3 sets just to ebay the other sets)

Maybe custom handlebars.....

[Sam Green]

The bike looks like it may actually be finished soon. 3 years in the making. I will do a youtube video of the complete bike and the story behind it.. Then it will be donated and auctioned to support the fight against Breast Cancer. A friend of mine's wife works for the American Cancer Society and they are making arraingements to pick up the bike when done.

Chip, please send me your Paypal address again, I would like to contribute a little to your friends wifes charity, it's a wonderfull thing you are doing.
On the other hand, I could give it to you personally at Valdosta.:) just weeks away;)

Sam.:)

[Spokes]

Thanks Sam. It's the American Cancer Society. A giant force funding cancer research. You can donate directly or hold off for a bit until I get the bike to where it needs to be. I will title the bike and put a hundred miles on it to make sure it is perfect to ride before it goes.

I am planning to visit Valdosta when your there. We will hook up. I look forward to meeting you in person.

[Spokes]

Time Stamp 3-3-12

Finally found all of the correct parts to rebuild a sound petcock. The pic below is a ca95 frame test stand in my out building shop. My out building is where the smelly greasy work takes place. It looks like the tank/petcock holds gas. I will leave it overnight to make sure there is no leaks. Tomorrow I will temp mount the carb and make sure it does not leak. if no leaks are found then on the bike they go.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=744

[65ca95]

Newbie here so excuse the ignorance, what tool do you use to bend the trim and mold it correctly?

[Spokes]

No tools needed. The trim is soft nylon and trims with scissors.

[Spokes]

The build from scratch before starting. I will post the results as soon as I get it uploaded.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiqKIJCb7iU&feature=channel

[Spokes]

The engine started. I rode the bike around the property. But alas, I have to pull the engine. I sprung a real strong oil leak exactly at the head and cylinder. It is at the oil passage. I will take some pics of what I find. On the bright side, tranny, clutch, starter,throttle, carb all worked very well. Basically I did gamble that the surface of the head and cylinder were flat. Being that the engine is made of of several, I think I have to have the head and cylinder machined before re assembly. Not a tragic problem, just a slight delay finishing the bike.

[Sam Green]

Easy to check with a steel rule Chip, you couldn't, NO, you wouldn't , would you ? no you can't have forgoten, DID YOU ? :D:D:D:D:D yes, they are GREEN and sorta round:p:D:rolleyes:

Sam.:eek::eek::eek::eek:

[ByTheLake]

Easy to check with a steel rule Chip, you couldn't, NO, you wouldn't , would you ? no you can't have forgoten, DID YOU ? :D:D:D:D:D yes, they are GREEN and sorta round:p:D:rolleyes:

Sam.:eek::eek::eek::eek:There's no way possible that a veteran restorer and CA95 expert extraordinaire would leave out the green o-ring.

I am disappointed that his YouTube video stopped before he started the engine, though. :)

Spokes, let us know what happened. I saw an infomercial with some spray stuff that sealed gutters and row boats, to maybe we can pitch in and get you some of that stuff.

[Spokes]

I will get my video's on youtube asap. All of you will like the one of me riding around the back yard, smoke from one cylinder, which should clear up and the imfamous leak. No sam, I did not forget the green "o" ring! I even put in new knock pins! But alas, maybe putting a head from one engine and a cylinder from another without machining the 1st might be the issue. We will soon see. Thanks for the fine compliment By the Lake... But this is a project that required used parts from mix and match. I have not heard of this kind of thing being done before. Doing a quick teardown to find what I did wrong is no big deal. Just a couple of hours and I shall know.

[Spokes]

I over looked something..I did not tighten the cylinder head. I forgot that I mounted the engine and then got transfered 1400 miles south. After racking my brain...I laid a wrench on the cylinder nuts and found they were snug to say the least.

Tomorrow I tighten all the bolts and give it another shot. It's funny how moving house and shop 1400 miles and starting managing commodity at a new plant with twice the capacity of the old plant distracts one from building a small bike. But at least I have access to aerospace grease......LOL

[ByTheLake]

I over looked something..I did not tighten the cylinder head. I forgot that I mounted the engine and then got transfered 1400 miles south. After racking my brain...I laid a wrench on the cylinder nuts and found they were snug to say the least.

Tomorrow I tighten all the bolts and give it another shot. It's funny how moving house and shop 1400 miles and starting managing commodity at a new plant with twice the capacity of the old plant distracts one from building a small bike. But at least I have access to aerospace grease......LOLI did exactly the same thing last year with my '72 CB175 restoration ... forgot to torque the head nuts. That bike would idle just fine, but when you gave it some throttle, it sounded like dynamite exploding up front.

Looking forward to your update ... fingers crossed.

[Spokes]

Ran the engine after the head tightening. Looks like I have to pull the motor and tear down the the top end to see where the issue is.
Below is a close up shot using my inspection camera. You are looking underneath the lowest head fin, at where the cylinder and head meet,
ignition side of the engine.
http://www.fourwheelforum.com/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=745

As you can see the engine is perfectly clean with clean oil. Tear down is not a big deal when all of the parts are clean.

Again, on the positive side of the story, tranny, clutch, valve lash, timing, starter, harness, connections, switch, carb, tank petcock, controls and the rest of the build turned out perfect. This is a great lesson for all. Even an experienced hobby mechanic can miss a beat..

[ByTheLake]

With my engine going back together in the next 4-6 weeks, I'm quite interested in learning what you find.

Are you considering adding an engine oil dye then running it for a bit to help make the leak path more visible?