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aaron7
11-14-2009, 02:48 PM
Well, I have no idea what's left to test.

I have new points, new condenser, new plugs, new plug boots... I had the coil tested and they said it wasn't shorted (couldn't test it under load as their machine was broken I guess).

What the heck else could it be??? I've tried every key position too.

Smithers
11-14-2009, 10:00 PM
How are you testing the spark? Have a tool or you just putting the plug next to the cylinder and spinning it without the spark plug in it? Your battery is getting a good 6V reading right? The ground strap on the battery getting a good contact on bare metal? Also your rectifier look ok? I've heard these could burn out if you don't use a battery and try to ride it around but that's just hear-say. Check your connectors again and use a volt-meter to check and make sure you are getting continuity through them all. Wiggle them a little when you have the tester on it to make sure it's not some intermittent connection.

You should just put the key in the ignition and you only need to go one click to turn it on/ to get spark. The spark should be obvious and make a snapping noise... as I'm sure you know, just sayin.

aaron7
11-15-2009, 05:42 AM
Do I have to have a battery to get spark? I don't have one connected yet.

All my other connections are fine.

I'm using a spark tester. It looks like a spark plug but has a spiked jaw on it that you clamp to the cylinder fins.

aaron7
11-15-2009, 07:27 AM
Well, just installed my new 6v battery that I bought for this bike and I still have no spark... but the plot thickens.

I have no power to anything. No horn, no lights, nothing. The cable doesn't even spark when I touch it to the battery.

There are two positive battery cables... one just for the starter solenoid and one for the harness. I tried both individually with no result.

The ground is nice and tight to the block/frame mount.

I tested the tail and headlight separately and both work.

I pulled the headlight and checked all the wires... nothing looks touched and all is tight.

Checked all the wiring behind the battery. Removed the coil and starter solenoid... all connections are fine.

Checked and even bypassed the only fuse on the bike with no change.

I guess this bike need the entire wiring harness removed and checked over; something I'm not willing to do.

I might just sell this project I guess. Or use it as a parts bike, I don't know.

Smithers
11-16-2009, 08:09 AM
Hold your horses! I have a couple things you should check. I'll get pictures of a couple key areas that you can look at in case you might have some exposed areas in the wires. I'll post when I get it together for you soon. If things are screwy like you say I would suspect a connection with the combination switch (key switch). Check to see if there are any wires worn down where they extend from the frame to the front headlight.

You think this might be the problem with the bike why it was put away? Every classic Honda I have seen was put away back in the day because something broke and the owner didn't want to fix it. :)

aaron7
11-16-2009, 10:45 AM
Probably why it was put away. I don't see any frayed wires other than the two coil wires which I fixed. I hope it isn't the ignition switch as I have no idea how I'd find another.

aaron7
12-03-2009, 01:45 PM
Received a -mint- original (1965 date code) wiring harness from ebay for $16.

Gutted my wiring harness. Mounted the coil and rectifier outside the bike (so they would be grounded if that's even necessary).

Hooked my battery up.

Now, on certain key positions, the electric starter button turns the motor over.

Still no power to lights, horn, and no spark.

Beginning to want to give up here!

Smithers
12-03-2009, 02:48 PM
Did you check to make sure the fuse isn't blown and that you get current from before and after it right? I've had it blow on me before and the bike will just come to a stop. It will only blow if you have a short somewhere. Even it the fuse is good make sure that power is getting to where that wire ends up going at the end of it.

aaron7
12-03-2009, 02:53 PM
The harness I just got has no provisions for a fuse. No evidence of wires being cut either so I know it's factory.

The harness I pulled from my bike (date code 1963) has a fuse, and it is good. Just in case the contacts were bad I bypassed the fuse; no change.

aaron7
12-03-2009, 03:42 PM
Just checked the ignition switch assembly with a multimeter going from the shop manual connections. Everything here tests ok.

Smithers
12-04-2009, 08:21 AM
Well you just gotta keep moving down the line to the next item that controls the current flow to each accessory and the coils... Read through the service manual and just keep onnn checking!

aaron7
12-04-2009, 08:26 AM
Well, except for the stuff inside the motor I've checked all the electrics.

I'm not sure how to check the rectifier, but when I test each of the 3 contacts against ground one has 6.1v (same as the battery) and the other two are around 1.6v or so.

What I need to do is find someone with a running bike and offer to loan me parts so I can troubleshoot!

Anyone? Anyone? :p

Smithers
12-04-2009, 08:29 AM
I should have a spare one. Lemme go check my parts bike and see what I can't get off of it. We'll get it goin.

aaron7
12-04-2009, 08:35 AM
Great! I'm not sure if a bad rectifier, coil, or what might cause my problem. SOMETHING has to be shorted here!

Smithers
12-05-2009, 08:44 PM
I was out of town today. I'll poke around my parts bike tomorrow for ya.

aaron7
12-13-2009, 06:31 AM
We have spark!

Even though it's 17 degrees outside we were out there tracing wires and tesing continuity... and found the points, though they looked fine, were shorting out.

Swapped in a new set of points, shot a little starting fluid in the carb, and it fired up for a second!

I checked both spark plugs and I'm getting a nice blue spark.

The lights and horn still do not work, but we're getting there!

Smithers
12-13-2009, 09:39 AM
OH no I forgot to look at my parts bike for you, crap. : \ I've been so busy with work I haven't even had time to work on my own stuff at all. Well that's awesome that you have spark! That's the best news I've heard all week! I was annoyed with the lack of ignition just as you were. :) I feel helpless when I can't be there helping out. As always, it's simple but that's why it's annoying, hehe. Good work!

aaron7
12-13-2009, 09:54 AM
Any idea why I might not have power to anything else?

I checked the ignition switch against the shop manual and all seems fine.

aaron7
12-13-2009, 09:56 AM
Could you check the rectifier connections against ground for me? One has 6v (as it's a direct line to the battery) but the other two have 1.6v or so. Wondering if that's correct or not.

Smithers
12-13-2009, 09:58 AM
Crappy switches is probably the next place to look. They could easily have corrosion in them. I can't remember if you took them apart yet? They are really intricate! You'll be shocked and probable get angry when you have to put them back together... such a pain! But the moving parts in a circuit are always the first ones to troubleshoot. :D Check em out.

aaron7
12-13-2009, 10:15 AM
What switches are there though? Just horn and headlight right?

Spokes
12-25-2009, 10:57 AM
I don't know if this reply is too late about the spark issue. I think you just bought a crankshaft from me this week. I rebuilt a ca95 from bottom up and will be starting another shortly. The first place I would check is the green wire that connects to the points. This wire may be pinched or rubbed through and is grounded to the engine.

Then I would check if I have the switch in the right position to start. The ignition switch can be cleaned if you know how. I have done several.

Not having a headlight may be two things, it does not work, or the switch on the handlebar is in the middle position. The horn may not work as the diaphram my be bad or not adjusted. To check these items a continuity light is best.

And finally, if you leave the ignition switch in the "on" position too long (a few hours without the engine running) you can actually melt the insides. If you have melted the coil, you will see wax drippings, thus making your coil bad.

aaron7
12-25-2009, 12:02 PM
Yes, hi, I did just win that crank and I believe I was emailing you about the directionals as well.

I have nice white spark now. It was a bad set of points and then the timing was off.

I did not realize the bike wouldn't run without a fully charged battery. That would explain why it was almost running at first and then it was totally dead later on that day.

I have the battery on the charge and we'll try again soon.