Clutch preload issues- Help?

[comp_wiz101]

Hey all - my clutch lever is slightly bent (more straight than curved forwards), and I'm having difficulty getting my clutch adjusted properly.

It seems like the preload has to be set quite high in order for the clutch to throw out enough to avoid stalling when stationary- so high, the screwdriver slot points just past the bolt for the setting clamp.

As I turn up the preload, the cables go slack, before becoming tight again; I suppose the adjuster is getting out so far the return spring starts pulling more?

Either way, once I can actually shift to 1st without stalling the bike, the cables are tight again - I'm essentially incapable of adjusting it so the freeplay is within spec.

So, do I need a new clutch lever, or should I be investigating something else first?

[Spokes]

You have 3 adjustment points for the clutch. Handle, Slotted Dial and Slack( the adjustment at the top of the left engine case). This adjustment takes out the slack in the cable.

[comp_wiz101]

You have 3 adjustment points for the clutch. Handle, Slotted Dial and Slack( the adjustment at the top of the left engine case). This adjustment takes out the slack in the cable.

Yeah, the problem is that when I adjust the cable to have any slack, it doesn't throw the clutch far enough out, even after turning the slotted dial up as far as I can. I end up having to adjust the cable until it is under tension.

[Jetblackchemist]

Done.

[Spokes]

Interesting. The form or bend of the clutch handle should not be an issue as the mount is fixed. You can straighten the handle cold, but again I don't think the bend of the handle matters.

Try this:
Screw in all of the adjustments
Loosen the slotted adjustment.
Re-adjust the slotted adjustment until you get resistance. Lock in.

At the cable adjustment at the side cover,

Screw out the adjustment until the cable slack is gone.

Adjust at the clutch handle.

Engine not running,

Pull in the clutch and dope into 1st gear. You should be able to move the bike without the engine turning over. If not, adjust at the handle until you can, if not, adjust at the side cover.

Otherwise I think you might have a stuck clutch plate, a streched cable, or bent clutch push rod.

OR Did'nt you say that you had the side cover off? If so..did you put the clutch push rod in backwards?

That's all the ideas I have.

[comp_wiz101]

I heated up the levers on a butane stove and bent them closer to the right shape - better now. I had the clutch rod out for inspection when I had the side cover off - it was nice and straight, and went back in as per the service manual (rounded end towards the clutch).

It seems to be working nicer now. With the slotted adjuster turned up (Albeit past the narrow marks made by Honda) and the cables adjusted, the better lever now has a bit of travel after the clutch disengages, instead of being all the way to the grip. I don't have plates on it, but my rides around the yard seemed to do okay.

Interesting. The form or bend of the clutch handle should not be an issue as the mount is fixed. You can straighten the handle cold, but again I don't think the bend of the handle matters.

Try this:
Screw in all of the adjustments
Loosen the slotted adjustment.
Re-adjust the slotted adjustment until you get resistance. Lock in.

At the cable adjustment at the side cover,

Screw out the adjustment until the cable slack is gone.

Adjust at the clutch handle.

Engine not running,

Pull in the clutch and dope into 1st gear. You should be able to move the bike without the engine turning over. If not, adjust at the handle until you can, if not, adjust at the side cover.

Otherwise I think you might have a stuck clutch plate, a streched cable, or bent clutch push rod.

OR Did'nt you say that you had the side cover off? If so..did you put the clutch push rod in backwards?

That's all the ideas I have.