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View Full Version : Fuel Tank Repair and Sealing


gbaumgratz
08-29-2010, 04:30 AM
I have in the past used soldering and brazing as options on small pinholes and such. Both have worked for many years - but this depends on the condition of the rest of the tank.

As for sealers, I was never fond of the Kreem product after reading so many stories, and as such will never try it. I was reading more about the epoxy coatings such as this:

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm#

I think I will be trying this depending on how my tank looks after the phosphoric acid rinse and soak. Anyone ever tried this product or a similar one?

92merc
08-29-2010, 08:08 AM
Here's a kit I've been curious about.

http://www.por15.com/CYCLE-TANK-REPAIR-KIT/productinfo/CTRK/

gbaumgratz
09-03-2010, 06:22 PM
Finished the phosphoric acid soak and ordered the Caswell product today. I'm going to see how it works. Will let everyone know - might even tint it bright red or yellow to get a cool effect inside the tank!

gbaumgratz
09-25-2010, 05:30 PM
Well, finally getting back to this. Received the Caswell product a bit ago, but finally made the time to do it. Previously I had soaked the interior with a phosphoric acid solution and then let it dry. For good measures I rinsed well with acetone this morning and let it dry with a mini fan directed into the filler hole. This afternoon I mixed half of each of the two cans of the epoxy mix and poured it in. It was a little cooler than I would have liked so it was flowing a bit slow. I moved to the basement as there is virtually no odor with this product and allowed it to warm as I rolled the tank around a bit. At this time it seems to have dried to a smooth surface. I never ended up mixing in any powder coat as you can for color so it is sort or clear and shiny. I'll let it dry for a couple of days as it is cooler this time of year here. Supposedly if you allow it to cure at 140F you can put gas in it within four hours. I'm just going to let it slow cure.

I'll get some pics of the tank as time allows. All in all, I would say that the process was extremely simple. More preparation time than anything else. The directions even state that the rougher the inside of the tank, the better it adheres. I chose to clean out as much as possible and convert the remaining rust to iron phosphate before starting. So far it doesn't look bad - fuel tests will be the deciding factor.